Request for reference, discussion. Prequel and clan sabers.

I actually have plans to test it. The brand we talked about isn't sold here in the states but I'm sure there are others. I was going to take a scrap of pipe and try it out. I'm just curious what silver they used... because when it comes to automotive there are dozens of shades!
 
Definitely interested in this testing, the paint in the PT has a very distinct look that for the most part hasn’t been replicated.
 
I'm also starting to look into that other one... Adi Gallia or Shaak Ti used it, two pot knobs on the handle?
 
So - I’m working on this rumor of the type of weathering used on the Episode 1 sabers. It didn’t totally work - so I have an email out to my buddy to see what I did wrong

I made details in some pvc and used tamiya lacquer and enamel (whatever I had lying around) and did the wash and wipe. It did take paint with it so something went wrong… maybe too much turp, maybe the wrong type of paint, etc.

I was told automotive acrylic lacquer was used so I have a can of that coming to me on Wednesday.

BA17A0BD-ED00-4EBA-BE74-23714798C3E8.jpeg
53F40790-B304-4C03-B0C0-95AD8FCC047D.jpeg
3876C60C-60BA-4589-B4B3-65BC77B69767.jpeg
 
I think I have a solution - at least one that works. I don’t understand this polish stuff, but when mixed with a thinner like turpentine.. you either get an oily paste or salad dressing… lots of clear liquid with streaks of black in it, and it doesn’t run like a wash should. In fact, it softened the first coat of paint - so how do people use thinner as a wash without dissolving the layer below?!

Anyway, without understanding that I used hot water. This stuff dissolves in water, maybe it’s water based? So, I used a few ml of water, like 10-20 drops, which thinned the stove polish enough to paint the details! I set it with heat
CD7B4A9D-11D5-4C5F-BB11-3213E4E09453.jpeg

Then used a damp shop towel to wipe off the excess. Careful, it comes off really easily! That’s why I set it with heat a little first. Then I used the heat gun again to really set the polish… I think it just evaporated all the liquid.
0A41F749-13EE-4361-BEAD-14F8B27CE9E2.jpeg

7087EC2C-3E5C-4CCD-A3E5-64CDA11487FE.jpeg

I used TS-79 to seal it, being a lacquer I thought it would be a good choice
88138336-12E5-4C19-A12C-1076F02C2BB8.jpeg
D470CCE6-7F50-42E1-8830-16F030A8AE71.jpeg


These are the products I’m using here
D3E98627-E322-4A28-9D5C-66180831DC9E.jpegF8C6CC86-CA85-416B-BA33-6BFD9880F36E.jpeg54C36B1E-9818-4CA2-968F-A473802CD904.jpeg

So what are we thinking? I like this silver a lot, and it’s automotive acrylic lacquer like the rumors…. I chose the most basic good affordable one, considering how many lightsabers they had to paint
 
That’s starting to look really close. Do you have something on hand you are trying to match or are you just going off images?
 
That’s starting to look really close. Do you have something on hand you are trying to match or are you just going off images?
I don't have a painted original in hand. Images, yes. Images I can't share, yes, but not many.
What do you think? :)


I do look forward to someone familiar with painting to weigh in on using thinner over an existing coat.
 
While I am not experienced enough with painting to give an opinion on the technique, you have gotten closer than just about anyone else I’ve seen to the PT resin painting look. It’s one I’ve often tried to replicate and it never quite worked. Honestly the only other person I’ve seen get close is whoever did the paint work on Starkiller’s Darth Maul hilt
 
Last edited:


You'll notice this detail on Anakin Starkiller's Maul replica and I think the Saberz one too... the red button and black buttons are not lined up. I just directly milled out the existing bubbily button casts and put them in the same place. The black one is hanging a little over the rectangle, and on the prop it is exactly flush, probably due to shrinkage. This I believe to be a cast of the bladed stunt hilt. the rounded beveled ring up top matches the bladed ones from Ep. 2

I made my own emitter plate with a couple washers hammered and glued together, and some putty. both of my casts were raw resin up top, so I wanted some detail... but it's all Tom designed.

IMG_1986.jpeg
IMG_1987.jpeg
 
I DID do the black wash today. I am very devoted to this hobby... typing with one hand while i hold a glued part upright with the other. There are a few greeblies still un-IDed, but the only other one i want to swap in is the tiny one.. easily replaced and dusted afterwards if need be.
 
Okay so 1) I bet thinner gives you a more uniform flow of pigment, and a smoother cast probably helps. The water’s meniscus was hard to work with, my paint job was so slick it didn’t hang around!

2) I think this looks really good. Technique aside, the way this sits over the silver paint really is screaming Phantom Menace weathering to me. Most of what you see is after the polish has been wiped away, leaving streaks and traces. Some, like the Maul emitters, are saturated. I always go a little heavy on weathering my own stuff, it’s an art and I really enjoy it and always go a little farther than I mean to!

I first slathered it on in 3 batches, thinned per the type of weathering needed.
176FCAFD-9410-4708-B0FE-12D82584AA8B.jpeg

BA9A7586-39AB-455F-9DC3-2CBFB3032FC3.jpeg
CC81C587-D8E0-4FDF-A460-ED3F6C56F6FA.jpeg



I used a heat gun to lightly set the polish, then I used a wet shop rag and gently wiped it off, and got the heat gun to set it a second time. Finished it all off with the last bits of my TS-79 can… I need some more!

8F482313-B68D-4CE7-931A-8F712E97C810.jpeg
EE6D3331-9FDC-4AB7-B7AE-8C3596C037BF.jpeg
B4883FCB-5373-462D-B364-EA15CB7B17D9.jpeg
FBF960A2-C85B-4398-A0C0-3551B31F39C1.jpeg
 
Also, thinking of the Obi Wan Ep. 1 saber and the metal cylinder running down through it.... I thought this had a similar thing, solid core, 1/8" tube surrounding it
Screen Shot 2022-06-14 at 8.01.50 PM.png


but I actually see a plug halfway or 1/3 down the saber!
Screen Shot 2022-06-14 at 8.01.37 PM.png
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top