"Reddish Jammer" Y-Wing Build

Discussion in 'Studio Scale Models' started by Studio Kitbash, Aug 28, 2018.

  1. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    Got it, thanks!
     
  2. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Don't forget to modify this guy (Airfix 1/72 Heinkel 177, wheel strut piece)
    upload_2018-12-19_9-24-27.jpeg

    And this guy (Frog 1/72 Bristol Beaufighter, landing gear strut, Part #20), so that it looks like the above black piece
    upload_2018-12-19_9-24-51.jpeg

    To go here (upper right of pic, in gray) and here (lower center of pic, in blue) on the Red Jammer version of the Y-Wing. The modification of the Heinkel piece, on the real Red Jammer, isn't actually this severe, but this is where (among other places) I discovered, by reverse-engineering, that my armature dimensions were insufficient to carry the amount of greeblie real estate I needed to plant on. So in future I'm adding a few mm's here and a few cm's there.
    upload_2018-12-19_9-25-33.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    It's unfortunate some of the main dimensions are off, fortunately I was able to catch this early on in my build and correct it. None the less it still makes a beautiful Y-Wing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
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  4. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    When I find a confirmed donor greeblie that no one else has found...

    upload_2019-1-6_8-17-41.jpeg

    "It's mine... It's mine... It's my precious..."

    And then, later, usually much later, I learn to share and play well with others.
     
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  5. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Do you need a little jig to guide your spacing of the front laser cannons?
    upload_2019-1-8_2-15-53.jpeg

    Part #139 from the Airfix 1/24 Hawker Hurricane is the perfect little spacer for you, and who knows, may have been what Dave Beasley used to space the original cannons. I tend to think this is possible, assuming a sort of Occam's Razor approach to answering the question, "Why is it this way and not some other way?" and then I look around, and often find a plausibly satisfying answer in one of the kits they used. So even though this was not a confirmed donor greeblie, it could have been an internal greeblie, or simply an assembly jig.

    upload_2019-1-8_2-17-45.jpeg
    See how perfectly it answers the call to space the cannons?
     
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  6. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Was the Bandai 1/48 155mm M12 Motor Carriage a donor for the Y-Wing? It came out in 1974. ILM used a lot of Bandai stuff in that scale. (i.e., Kubelwagen. Schwimmwagen. Nashorn. King Tiger. Tiger I. Jagdtiger. Jagdpanther. Hetzer. Panzerkampfwagen VI. Ausf.H. Panther G. Elefant.)

    And... maybe not, but sprue C sure looks useful, especially parts #C28 and C29:
    upload_2019-1-8_13-36-21.jpeg
    Don't those pieces look suspiciously close to the underside leading edge of the fuselage pieces that have the Aurora Sealab vents in them?

    Here they are next to a 3D-printed part of the same piece, modeled by Gus in Toronto; notice the overall width and height similarities:
    upload_2019-1-8_13-36-34.jpeg

    And here's the flip view, comparing the top leading edges:
    upload_2019-1-8_13-36-45.jpeg

    So it may not be a confirmed donor, but I tinkered with it and was very satisfied with an "original" replacement piece donor that fit the bill with only minor modifications:
    upload_2019-1-8_13-36-58.jpeg
    Here it is in rough before finally evenly angling the primary leading edge...

    upload_2019-1-8_13-37-41.jpeg
    Here, placed loosely on an armature, not glued down and not in final position. Works!

    (I know the original doesn't have the rigid raised spine piece running vertically along the top, but I thought it looked kind of cool so left it on there.)
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 8, 2019
  7. dtssyst

    dtssyst Well-Known Member

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    Studio Kitbash,
    First link works but I can't seem to get the other links to work.
     
  8. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay, try now.
     
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  9. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Not recommended...
    upload_2019-1-8_16-25-16.jpeg
    But it does work. If you need to elevate your Y-Wing while attaching some rear-ventral disk greeblies, two of the heavy-duty blue cloth rolls hold it perfectly above the surface of the workstation by about 1cm from the front guns, and the nacelle fronts snuggle down into the tubes just enough to hold securely... but please don't jiggle the table while its drying!
     
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  10. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    Oh man, I don’t think I have the testicular fortitude to do that!!
     
  11. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    To build the nacelle tie-down subassembly:
    upload_2019-1-15_19-24-11.jpeg
    Start with these four pieces, and then modify as follows.

    upload_2019-1-15_19-23-46.jpeg

    upload_2019-1-15_19-24-47.jpeg
    Then glue that little sucker, or half of it, with the raised ridge on the inside, into the bottom of the Kettenkrad pieces, like so:
    upload_2019-1-15_19-25-28.jpeg

    Start here with your Kettenkrad tie-down greeblie, and sand/plane it until its practically one-plane surface at top/rear section...
    upload_2019-1-15_15-52-6.jpeg upload_2019-1-15_15-52-6.jpeg

    upload_2019-1-15_15-52-6.jpeg

    Then do the following, repeating but modifying the steps shown earlier on how to perfect your 3-piece nacelle-tie-down clip subassembly.

    upload_2019-1-15_15-54-54.jpeg
    Cut the Bandai 1/24 wheel struts roughly as follows, NOT cutting the bottom edge flush with the strut piece, in order to accommodate the angle of the "mount" on the pantyhose nacelle.

    upload_2019-1-15_19-19-49.jpeg

    upload_2019-1-15_15-56-29.jpeg
    Note the angle, leaning inward on top, outward on bottom...

    upload_2019-1-15_15-57-14.jpeg
    The basic idea is to angle these out at bottom as much will be allowed and angle them together at the top as much as possible, and THEN make the top cross-cut to create the upper plane of the nurnie on top of which you'll glue the two little "nubs" of the cut-offs from the center of the wheel piece.

    upload_2019-1-15_19-21-55.jpeg
    You're cutting off a ridiculously small tip-top piece from here, on both struts, and saving those tiny pieces to glue on top.

    upload_2019-1-15_15-57-14.jpeg

    You're angling them together at top to produce this effect:
    upload_2019-1-15_19-12-57.jpeg

    For this result, once it's all put together and you like the angle:
    upload_2019-1-15_19-13-59.jpeg
    Here's a close-up
    upload_2019-1-15_19-29-22.jpeg

    And here's a comparison shot with the previous version I made:
    upload_2019-1-15_19-30-43.jpeg
    On this, you can see that the one on the left (earlier version) has "flat walls" while on the right (corrected version), has the "angled version" that DaveG pointed out is on the original. If you "work it" even more, which I may yet still do, you can get an even more severe angle from top to bottom, and you can get a better flat plane surface on the Kettenkrad piece, which is something I only discovered after it was too late on this one.

    So while this newer, corrected version still isn't a "completely perfect" replica of the nacelle tie-downs, it's edging towards pretty dang close, and more importantly, it manifests the key characteristics of the original subassembly without using a fourth "mystery greeblie," which I believe actually solves the mystery, which is that there is no fourth missing/mystery greeblie - there is just a very specific construction technique you must follow. I may be wrong, but as of this date, I really do think this is how ILM did it, technique-wise, when first mastering these. There are some other versions on the Millennium Falcon where the whole "mystery greeblie" section seems very thin and "single-surface", which I would argue is the result of simply taking this structure and thinning it down with a rotary tool on both sides.

    I would love your comments, critiques, eagle-eyes, and nitpicks. I'd like to actually "nail this" so feel free to be liberal with your constructive criticism. If you need further shots, or measurements, or whatever, let me know.
     

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