"Reddish Jammer" Y-Wing Build

Discussion in 'Studio Scale Models' started by Studio Kitbash, Aug 28, 2018.

  1. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    fullsizeoutput_ef74.jpeg
    If Kylo Ren had his own Y-Wing...

    Full build thread coming soon -- just putting a placeholder here while it's in primer.

    Thanks to everyone on the RPF who helped, and thanks to everyone who ignored me - that helped too, but in a different way.
     
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  2. Voodoocaster

    Voodoocaster Well-Known Member

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    Just looking at your avatar,...is the y-wing really porportioned in the golden ratio or is it photoshopped?
    Good luck with your built!
     
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  3. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    Watching this one! Can’t wait to see this come together!
     
  4. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voodoocaster,

    This was one of my discoveries -- it REALLY is proportioned in the Golden Ratio, and I wrote a lengthy post about it somewhere on the threads that is still up somewhere. Joe Johnston, who finalized/improved/perfected Colin Cantwell's original design, did not originally know about or intend to design it to "golden ratio" proportions, and did not learn about the Golden Ratio until years later, but good design is good design and I think (my interpretation here) that one reason the Y-Wing is "so cool" and so visually compelling is precisely because it is so "perfectly" proportional.

     
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  5. Voodoocaster

    Voodoocaster Well-Known Member

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    Just read your post about it ,.this explains why i always found the y-wing design so pleasing to the eye.
    Great post about all this by the way
     
  6. StevenBills

    StevenBills Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Where is this post you speak of?
     
  7. kokkari

    kokkari Sr Member

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    It was in the DaveG Y-wing thread. It will take some digging.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  8. vectorzero

    vectorzero Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  9. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    To start, you need a good organizing system, which for me meant 1.) acquiring every model, 2.) casting every greeblie, 3.) organizing the greeblies into a drawer-filing system since I'd be building more than one. Keep a detailed list of notes and places where each greeblie goes, and what else from that model could be used elsewhere, and where there are interpretive differences between greeblie A and greeblie B.
    IMGP6965.jpg

    Step Two: Use DaveG's mold-making and casting tutorial to get your resin casting skills, at least with one-piece molds, to the point where you are satisfied in your own ability to cast complex parts.

    IMGP7209.jpg
    4 original greeblies in subassembly on left; casting of said subassembly on right. This took roughly 2 years to acquire this level of competence. My first castings were so bad they were unphotographable.

    Step Three: Patience
    The art of deferred gratification is the key to success in all of life, and not least of all in model building. The Internet has collectively guessed at these Star Wars prop greeblies, and Y-Wing specific greeblies, by my count, since at least 1998, or roughly 20 years, and we still have greeblies that are to this day, as-of-yet, unidentified. I have identified a (very) few, and I will share these along the way with this build thread, so you will be rewarded with some surprises for reading. But that will come WAY later in this thread. Meanwhile here is a look at how nurnie-obsessive my greebie-filing system has become:
    IMG_2061.jpg
    I file by subject, scale, and importance/frequency of use in descending order on the vertical and horizontal axis. This way I can 'find what I'm looking for' by automatically knowing if it's a.) big or small, and b.) common or rare. As silly as this seems, it saves my brain a LOT of time in trying to find pieces/parts. As I've evolved my molding/casting, I'm now building subassemblies (like the one shown) rather than just casting individual greeblies, and this too saves a lot of time, but now requires an even larger-drawer system for organizing, which is currently under construction.

    Finally, You Will Need Money. Do not be fooled, this is a ridiculously expensive hobby, and if I had known what I was getting into when I started, I would have never started building from scratch, and would instead have simply purchased one of the existing available kits molded by Neisen or others. The kits alone cost roughly $7500, and I found them everywhere from Ebay to Hobby Shops to Swap Meets to Model Shows. All told in model kits, and materials, and tools, I've spent around $10k in 2+ years. My logic is that I have to build more than one Y-Wing in order to a.) sell a few so that b.) I may keep a few. And I am hoping, when it's all said and done, to break even.

    So you can think of this as a ten-thousand dollar build thread, that you get for free. Not a bad deal, right?

    I am writing this not to tell you things you already know and have known for upwards of 20 years. I'm writing this to share a.) what I have learned along the way, b.) thank those who showed me some of the ropes, and c.) reveal a few of my surprising discoveries, lucky guesses, and/or just plain serendipitous happy accidents. But I would also like this thread to be something that was useful to you, so if in previous build thread(s) you learned X & Z but not enough about Y, please let me know what specifically you'd like emphasis on.
     
  10. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The headpiece takes 29 plates on top, using 0.20" thick plastic card stock from Plastruct. I recommend super-gluing these on, as my idea of using Tamiya thin liquid cement (green bottle) did make the underside sticky/tacky, but when dry they popped off too easily from the Resin print of the headpiece. As a result, several of them had to be re-attached, and the rest are held on by a.) mild tackiness underneath the plate along with b.) two layers of primer and soon to be c.) a top layer of paint.

    I'd also love it if DaveG or someone else handy with the 3D modeling software or just PhotoShop would make a laser-cut frisket of these plates in studio-scale-size, so that people could replicate the pieces more easily. I would happily pay for such a service.

    fullsizeoutput_efa4.jpeg IMGP6983.JPG

    I think I later went back and recounted and realized I was missing one more plate on the left side, and so the total count is 30 on the top side of fuselage head and canopy combined, though I seem to have forgotten to take a picture of it with Plate #30 on it. I also did these entirely by hand, and was not using a caliper or measuring tape of any sort, and just sort of eyeballing it, so a purist would want to take the overhead shot of Red Jammer from the Japanese Chronicles book and do a photoshop-perfect matching and then scale it up to life-size. 3 of the 30 pieces are not Plastruct plate, but are Holgate & Reynolds brick pattern, these are the tan-colored pieces in the pix.
     
  11. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    I hope those numbers written on each piece weren't done with a Sharpie, because that will bleed through your paint. I would recommend removing the numbers before you do anymore painting.
     
  12. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! The numbers were done with a Japanese paint marker for Gundam figures, so I'm hoping I'm okay. Under the second coat of primer, nothing's showing through currently.
     
  13. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    Alright, cool. I just remember when I first got into the model/prop making business and used a Sharpie, it bled all the way through the final paint job. Expensive lesson to learn.
     
  14. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Fujimi/Nitto 1/76 Jagdpanther #24/25 Side Panel Width = 1/35 Shovel Panel Width = Centurion Piece #K12 Width (or at least should be pretty durn close)

    IMGP6886.jpg IMGP6883.jpg IMGP6887.jpg IMGP6884.jpg IMGP6885.jpg IMGP6882.jpg
    The Fujimi/Nitto 1/76 Jagdpanther pieces #24/25, cut exactly in half (lengthwise), yields a piece that fits the upper deck at 28.59mm quite perfectly. Don't forget to "fill in" the square holes on upper corners of these pieces.

    Your shovel can come from any number of 1/35 tank kits, but the agreed-upon confirmed donor seems to be the shovel from the Tamiya 1/35 Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger 1 model, and on this kit (Item No. 35056) it is part #B26. See my caliper measuring all these pieces to within 1mm of each other. You can get more accurate than that if you like, but my personal aesthetic preference is to go for "slightly off" in order to keep it looking "hand-made" and "rushed to meet production schedule" so that it doesn't get "too" super-accurized and become machine-made-looking.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2018
  15. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    Can't see the attachments :(

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
     
  16. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tell me if you can see them now.
     
  17. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    I see em.
     
  18. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Joe Johnston's blueprints for eye candy and inspiration...

    s-l1600.jpg

    s-l1600 2.jpg

    s-l1600 4.jpg

    s-l1600 3.jpg
     
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  19. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    To make the dampers, or nacelle clip tie-downs, or whatever their official nurnie-greeblie-thingie name is, I think I may have serendipitously (after three different attempts) figured out the mystery of the "missing piece": there is no missing piece.

    The builder (who I think was Dave Beasley) of this subassembly simply "recycled" all available material, which were exactly these three parts:
    upload_2018-11-25_0-43-37.jpeg
    From left, clockwise: 1.) Bandai 1/24 Messerschmitt Bf-109E4 Parts #B17 and B18 (5-step landing gear struts, ONLY the Bandai kit will provide this). 2.) Tamiya 1/35 Panzer Kampfwagen III Ausf. M/N (Kit No.35011), Part #C8 (Gun Barrel mount, and NOT part # A54 which looks very similar but is slightly different on top). 3.) 1/9 Kettenkrad manufactured originally by ESCI in 1975, and later re-issued variously by Ertl, Revell, Hasegawa, Dragon, or now Italeri, part #226P (or its identical twin #226Q). The trick is in a.) how you modify them (esp Parts 1 and 3), and b.) how you DON'T THROW AWAY YOUR CUT-OFFS, SCRAPS, or "extra sprue" lying around after modifications...

    upload_2018-11-25_8-25-16.jpeg
    See those TWO little nibs that are cut off the landing gear struts on the wheel part? KEEP THOSE -- they become the "rivets" that later show up on top of the greeblie.

    Now notice something else...
    upload_2018-11-25_8-27-32.jpeg
    See how the landing gear top hinge section, that would go into the airplane (and allow the strut to swing in/out of the landing gear recess bay) is, when cut off, EXACTLY the width of the bottom inset of the Kettenkrad tow hook (Lower Right section of this picture)? That's not a coincidence either.

    upload_2018-11-25_8-29-10.jpeg
    So you should end up with something like this, before you begin any major surgery on the landing gear struts' circular sections.

    upload_2018-11-25_8-31-47.jpeg
    Then you should cut off the outside edge, on both sides, of the strut, using the natural angle of your clippers to where they "hit" the base but go back far enough to remove the "obvious" perception that this is a landing gear strut, and sorry for the crappy picture that is out of focus, but that's the only one that was remotely post-able. After this, you're going to sand it down using the SMALLER of the two sanding wheel options that come standard in your Dremel tool.

    So that the end result...
    upload_2018-11-25_8-33-27.jpeg
    looks something like this. What you're trying to do is "narrow the inserted section" enough so that it fits "perfectly" in between the opening of the Kettenkrad hook's negative space, so this is the trickiest part and so far I've never done it perfectly, even though I'm getting closer.

    upload_2018-11-25_8-35-18.jpeg
    So before final modifications, it looks like this, but of course you have to build this on a dummied-up engine and nacelle core (L'eggs Pantyhose container, modified down) so that you're getting all the compound angles as close to perfect as possible. And then, the most delicate cut of all, which I have marked with a Gundam pen first...
    upload_2018-11-25_8-37-7.jpeg
    That line/angle is crucial, because it is what creates the perception/illusion of a third/missing nurnie in this whole subassembly.

    upload_2018-11-25_8-38-4.jpeg
    This is what it looks like "before" the correction for the nacelle nosecone angle, and the cut, and the final terrifying commitment of the sprue cutter...

    upload_2018-11-25_8-39-24.jpeg
    And here is the rough-up, before gluing and final back section cut. See how it begins to look like the original subassembly?

    Then you glue those little buggers on that you didn't throw away earlier, after cutting them way down to just tiny nibs/rivets, meaning you are just using the very tip-top of the leftover piece.
    upload_2018-11-25_8-40-59.jpeg
    Looking familiar? We're getting there...

    Meanwhile, on the UNDERSIDE, what you've done is cut off HALF of the landing gear top section, creating this:
    upload_2018-11-25_8-42-19.jpeg

    And then, you cut off the very back top circular section, making it flush with the rest of the piece, and all of a sudden...
    upload_2018-11-25_8-43-27.jpeg
    Viola! You have a musical nurnie that looks remarkably like the original...

    upload_2018-11-25_0-30-1.jpeg
    Or at least, close enough for government work (make final clean-ups, adjustments, and whatnot with Perfect Plastic Putty or your preferred filler of choice.
    upload_2018-11-25_0-45-32.png
    Here's the original, for comparison's sake.

    Has this solved the mystery of this missing mystery greeblie? I'd love to hear your thoughts, but I think it does, and I am mostly of this opinion because a.) hundreds of dollars of train bridges, cranes, track barriers, truck trusses, still girder bridges, and other steel-girder construction model kits later I still haven't found anything close, b.) this method explains both the 1.) strange spacing and 2.) different sizes/heights of the two top bump "rivets" on this particular nurnie, and c.) modeling putty of this type ALSO explains the indent in what would be a "puttied-in" section of the nurnie, since the putty of the 1970's putty was famous for drying out and "sucking in" as it dried, leaving little impressions or concavities like that found on the far left picture above.

    Mad props and thanks go (again) to Dave Goldberg for his 3D printed version of the nurnie, which he modeled and which I used as a reference/template for making some of these guesses.

    upload_2018-11-25_0-45-32.jpeg

    image.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2018
  20. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    It all makes sense to me, especially once you glue the two struts together.

    Excellent job!
     
  21. kokkari

    kokkari Sr Member

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    Wow! Great work!
     
  22. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    Great bit of archeological detective work! Thanks for posting this!
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2018
  23. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Today is my 50th birthday, and here is my gift to myself (and you, if you're interested in a virtual nurnie party to celebrate)...

    The original 1974 boxing, of the Revell 1/570 HMS King George V ("Battleship That Sank the Bismarck")
    upload_2018-11-27_7-55-36.jpeg

    or you could get this other one instead, the re-issued model, new in 1975 (and likely what the ILM guys got from Sentai Distributors) which is the exact same model but with different markings, The Revell 1/570 HMS Prince of Wales ("British Battlewagon") with a flying Walrus on the upper left of the original and awesome box art. (The new boxings are crappy art pieces, imho, but they still have the piece you want)
    upload_2018-11-27_7-56-56.jpeg

    But in both boxings, you're looking for part #64. This is the "Mainmast" piece, and is the confirmed donor for one of the long-sought after "mystery greeblies" from the wing subassembly, of which there are four on each/every Y-Wing. (So this piece shows up 32 times on the 8 original Y-Wings that were built for the original 1977 Star Wars film)
    upload_2018-11-27_8-42-1.jpeg
    From left to right on the metric ruler: 1.) Way Too Small, 2.) Almost But Not Quite, and then finally, 3.) Aahhh, Just Right. The far right nurnie is 3.+mm wide at the top, just slightly larger in width than the circular Heinkel He-177 reticle nurnie. When you modify it, you'll need to not only cut it off the top "Mainmast" piece at just above the next cross-spar, but also cut off the little center nib on top, which does not exist on the center piece Tamiya 1/700 (Part #C36) version of the nurnie.

    Here it is on the resin-cast subassembly.
    upload_2018-11-27_8-1-51.jpeg

    And here it is on the full original nurnies subassembly, soon to be recast in resin.
    upload_2018-11-27_8-2-38.jpeg

    Why was this one so hard to find? Two reasons: 1.) Because it was hiding in plain sight as a tiny section of a larger piece, and 2. )Because after finding the right shape in the Tamiya 1/700 Prince of Wales kit, but realizing it was too small, I spent all my energy looking for it in 1/600 scale, not knowing that there was such a thing as 1/570 scale (I am a plane builder, and have never been a ship builder). THAT's when it was helpful to have the Revell '75-76 Catalog and the '76-77 catalog on hand to cross check the available kits. And that's where I discovered, oh hey, there's this one kit in 1/570 scale that I've never looked at...

    One fun little piece of historical trivia: the Y-Wing was among the first models built, possibly as early as December 1975. How late was it built? Well, the 1975 boxing of the HMS Prince of Wales includes this flyer for a Sweepstakes Entry form with the headline, “Revell Soars Into 1976 with Wing-n-Wheel Sweepstakes” Grand Prize: A Cessna 150 Commuter Airplane!" The deadline for the entry form is May 31, 1976, so while this does not guarantee or prove anything conclusively, it at least increases the plausibility that the model was purchased, if not in 1975, then at least within the first five months of 1976.

    Happy Birthday y'all.

    image.png

    image.png
     
  24. vectorzero

    vectorzero Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    A very Happy Birthday. I'm in absolute awe of your focus in finding these details.
     
  25. DaveG

    DaveG Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Read, Nice work on the conversion of struts to the nacelle clips. The solution you propose is certainly possible, though not conclusive. A couple of things to consider, the sides sloping away from the two tiny rivets are indeed sloped outwards, not parallel or an optical illusion of shadows. See the attached images of the same detail parts used in the 5 foot Millennium Falcon engine dampers. You can definitely see that they are sloped. Your solution could still be valid, it's just that a bunch of additional filing would be needed to taper the sides, but still doable.

    Your reasoning as to why the two rivets are different sizes, being cut imprecisely from another part is a valid explanation.

    Another interesting thing seen in the Falcon dampers is that the dimples are different depths on different castings! This would simply never occur with multiple resin parts cast from the same mold. However, it could very well have occurred if the parts were injection molded and we know that they had a small single shot injection molder in the model shop and used if for a few pieces.

    In the end, we may never know, but it sure is fun to speculate!

    falconenginestop18comp.jpg falconenginebottom3comp.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  26. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    I guess its possible that several were constructed your way, then cast.
     
  27. dtssyst

    dtssyst Well-Known Member

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    I will be following this thread very closely.
     
  28. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dave,

    Thanks for your eagle-eyed feedback; much appreciated! The sloped-outward-ness of the nurnie, thanks to the images you provided, settles it once and for all: the inner-wall to outer-wall sections are in perfect relationship to each other, having identical distance between the "low" section and the "high" section -- this is the same relationship found on the nurnie itself. What THIS means, conclusively, is that they were assembled using a cut-off piece as a "shim" to go on the underside of the two round portions, so that the entire assembly would "fill" the same angled opening in the Kettenkrad nurnie as much as possible, using as little putty as possible (i.e., maximizing styrene-to-styrene bonding ability with regular model glue). The significant claim remains: there is NO missing nurnie; there is simply a complex initial sequence to the making of the master subassembly.

    As for reproduction, I like your notion that these may have been mastered, and then injection molded using the machine they had, accounting for the different-sized divots in various versions of the nurnie.

    Once I acquire one more Bandai Messerschmitt, I'll demonstrate the technique again in a step-by-step manner, in order to reproduce a master that has these sloped-outward sides. My reference photographs made it look like it was an optical illusion/trick of the light/shadow effect, so I'm delighted to have this cleared up with even better reference images.
     
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  29. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Where is that center inner ring from? Was it kit-bashed? Or machine-tooled?
    upload_2018-12-2_22-23-34.jpeg

    I believe it was kit-bashed. I believe this for a couple of reasons:
    1. Because whenever ILM could find the shape and size they were looking for in a model kit, it saved them time and money on machine-tooling.
    2. Because on the actual model (unlike the DaveG perfectly-fitting 3D prints shown above), the center ring is slightly "off" of being perfectly flush with the inside of the Sealab Crane Part #59 double-sided/mirrored nurnie, as seen in the detail picture below of the Alan Ladd rear vectral
    upload_2018-12-2_22-30-12.jpeg

    3. Because I believe I have found the part.

    4. And because this part is perfectly "mismatched" to the Sealab nurnie in the same way the original was.

    Here is the part on top of DaveG's 3D file printed equivalent:
    upload_2018-12-2_21-23-35.jpeg

    Here is DaveG's 3D-file printed ring piece on top of the kit bashed part
    upload_2018-12-2_21-23-51.jpeg

    Here are the two parts side by side.
    upload_2018-12-2_21-24-28.jpeg

    Here is the part fitting "perfectly" inside DaveG's 3D vertical rear vectral fin, overhead view.
    upload_2018-12-2_21-21-59.jpeg

    Here is the part fitting "perfectly" inside DaveG's 3D vertical rear vectral fin, side view.
    upload_2018-12-2_21-23-9.jpeg

    Here are the measurements of the part, roughly 38mm inner diameter and 40mm outer diameter, but not "exactly" these numbers:
    upload_2018-12-2_21-25-18.jpeg
    Inner diameter 38.62 (but don't take this as gospel, as I'm measuring a flexible part and each time I do it I get a different number, so even this is a "pretty close" guesstimation)

    Here is the outside diameter:
    upload_2018-12-2_21-25-39.jpeg
    Outer diameter is 40.54 (but again, don't take this number as gospel). The key is that it is pretty much 38mm on the inside and 40mm on the outside, with roughly 1/4 a milimeter (0.25mm) of wiggle room (i.e., the limitations of either my tool or my measuring abilities)

    Here it is fitting inside (but just barely) into DaveG's 3D-printed horizontal rear vectral fin:
    upload_2018-12-2_21-3-27.jpeg
    But here is where the part does not fit "perfectly" into DaveG's 3D-printed part, as the vertical ventral fin is slightly too "tight" to accept the kit bashed part, despite fitting perfectly into his other 3D-printed part: the DaveG part is a few mm shy of the full width of two Sealab Part #59's abutted to each other, which can be accommodated for inside the rear ventral ring (modified L'eggs Pantyhose container) by simply cutting off those same number of mms on the outer legs, as shown by the Gundam marketed pieces on the lower assembly in the photo below
    upload_2018-12-2_21-26-55.jpeg

    So here it is sitting at the midpoint inside another version of the horizontal rear vectral fin, with plenty of wiggle room (but perhaps too much by 1-2mm)
    upload_2018-12-2_21-27-50.jpeg

    So now here it is on the center part of a newly created horizontal rear vectral fin (in layout form, not yet glued together), which I believe is closer to the real original nurnie:
    upload_2018-12-2_21-5-1.jpeg

    So where does this mystery greeblie come from?

    So glad you asked...
    upload_2018-12-2_21-28-19.jpeg
    The Entex 1/16 the Hon. C.S. Rolls 1908 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost "balloon car" released in 1975.

    Sprue G, Part #1 (10 of them per model, or 5 Y-Wings worth) top side:
    upload_2018-12-2_22-19-50.jpeg

    Sprue G, bottom side:
    upload_2018-12-2_22-21-32.jpeg

    Close-up shot, top-side:
    upload_2018-12-2_22-20-38.jpeg


    Top side is "pretty sharp" and "machined" looking on its edges, while the bottom side of the nurnie is softer, more rounded. So there are some discrepancies, as in many photos it looks like it's sharp and machine-edged on both sides.

    But it doesn't look so sharp-edged on this archival Y-Wing, however, does it.
    upload_2018-12-2_22-29-9.jpeg

    So the truth is, I'm not 100% certain on this one. But it's an as-yet-undiscovered nurnie, it fits the role, and I'm using it.

    You can also get the kit re-issued later by Bandai in the 1980's, and much more common on Ebay.
     

    Attached Files:

  30. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay, so it turns out I was wrong on my 50th birthday present -- the 1/570 Revell ship kits (HMS Prince of Wales and HMS King George V) are NOT the source of the mystery greeblie on the 4 wing subassemblies. Sorry about that -- I was fairly excited! I had found it! I was dead wrong...

    It sure "looks the part" and "fits the part" but Part #64 from those two Revell ships is categorically not the part. Three reasons:

    Reason One: the part does not have a top center nib that is cut off.
    Reason Two: the "leg" of the real part is just a scoche longer than it is on the Revell part.
    Reason Three: the actual nurnie is part #50 (unmodified) from the Nichimo 1/500 Ise (later reboxed as the Hyuga). This IS the confirmed donor. (If I had one, I'd photograph it for you and show it to you, instead all I have is a partially built model with a box top and instructions in it, which shows the part clearly)

    With great claims comes greater humility... ; )

    Thank you to those who illuminated my mistake and pointed me in the right direction.
     
  31. Hammer3246

    Hammer3246 Sr Member

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    Here's a picture. Nice find, I never thought to look in the little bag that sprue was in.
     

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  32. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just a thought... just a question:
    upload_2018-12-9_19-49-19.jpeg
    Any of you ever wonder if this black "decal" (circled in red) on top of the canopy isn't actually a decal, and might be a "black" space left over after a nurnie got knocked off?

    upload_2018-12-9_19-47-0.jpeg
    Cause here's a nurnie that kind of fits, and below it a bigger one in kind of the same shape. See the uneven-ness of the nurnie below? Now compare that shape to the black shape on the actual Red Jammer, below:

    upload_2018-12-10_8-8-40.png
    See how it is equally "uneven" on right and left side, just like the lower nurnie is?

    Just wondering if it makes more sense as a "missing nurnie" or as a black paint mark or decal. And if it is a decal (from one of the train sheets, for instance), can one of you point me to which decal sheet it comes from?
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2018
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  33. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    upload_2018-12-11_11-45-55.jpeg
    Some nice model cars and trucks on the left side of this shot -- if they haven't been IDed yet. I'm especially curious about the three cars on the very bottom row in case you want to help out my "old man's" eyes.
     
  34. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    Just from a quick search...I think the two on the bottom right are the AMT 1/25 '34 Ford pick up and the AMT 1/25 Gremlin X funny car.
     
  35. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Is the one on lower left a Bobby Allison Monte Carlo?
     
  36. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    Yeah I think you're right on that one.
     
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  37. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Where the sausage gets made... in a very cold basement.

    upload_2018-12-12_16-11-50.jpeg

    What the sausage is starting to look like...
    upload_2018-12-12_16-13-6.jpeg
     
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  38. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    That’s a mighty fine looking Red Jammer!! Excellent job, on both the build, and the extensive research!
     
  39. dtssyst

    dtssyst Well-Known Member

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    Not only the Jammer (that looks excellent so far) but another Y in progress on the back right.
    Look at all those donor kits... they are everywhere!
    The Nernie heaven behind the Jammer :).
    I love everything I see. What I don't like is the idea of a cold basement. If it were me, I would not get anything done all winter.
     
  40. David3

    David3 Active Member

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    just noticed the greeblie/nurnie is similar to one on DaveGoldberg's escape pod
    The Escape Pod Project
     
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  41. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So it is.

    But similar, not identical, don't you think? The black mark on top of the Y-Wing looks asymmetrical, to my eye, in very much the same way the lower nurnie looks asymmetrical. And I can't find the decal for it, and find it hard to imagine/believe they would have painted an asymmetrical black mark on top of the canopy that just happened to look just like the negative space left over if this nurnie was glued on to the black primer layer, and then painted over, and then knocked off later by rough handling.

    Also, I've confirmed the greeblie from Post #29, the Entex 1/16 Rolls Royce rings ARE official greeblies for the rear vectral inner rings. So you can add those to your Confirmed Donor lists, if you haven't already.
     
  42. kokkari

    kokkari Sr Member

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    Im pretty sure it's a decal as it's on Gold Leader and Red 2 also. If it's a nurnie we would have to say it fell off all three, which I guess is possible but less likely.
     
  43. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Mike,

    Thank you! That settles it. Do you have close-up images of the decal on Gold Leader and Red 2? And do you know where the decal is originally from? I have "all" the existing Y-Wing decal source sheets, but don't see it on any of them (or else have simply missed it multiple times).

    Thanks again, this is the kind of cross-checking that is extremely helpful and derives its proofs by triangulation, and with authority. This is much appreciated.
     
  44. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    Are you talking about this decal?

    986CEFFA-8480-4092-9811-940F3AF6B6B8.jpeg

    I got it on a sheet from Jason Eaton. I may have a couple extras, I’ll look today.
     
  45. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes, that's the one. Would love to see the original, and/or have one of your extras. Do you know the source code of the decal (i.e., where it originally came from)?

    Thanks!
     
  46. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Pretty sure this model
    upload_2018-12-16_7-0-13.jpeg

    is the source for the front landing gear strut piece:
    upload_2018-12-16_7-7-50.jpeg

    That goes here on the Hurricane sidewall piece:
    upload_2018-12-16_7-9-39.jpeg

    Which, when modified, looks like this:
    upload_2018-12-16_7-10-16.jpeg
    and then gets the Kettenkrad piece, the Yamato piece, etc.

    You may have discovered this years ago, but it was new to me, as it wasn't/isn't on any current parts maps.
     
  47. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    I’ll look in my shop today and see if I have another decal.
    I don’t know the source code, but it looks like an aircraft marking I have seen before. I can’t place it at the moment..

    I got it on a decal sheet from Jason Eaton awhile back. He sometimes does a run of these decals.

    Edited to add: sent you a PM.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2018
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  48. kokkari

    kokkari Sr Member

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    Here are those images you requested. I was kinda right on Red 2, iit was just when it was Blue 1. LOL
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 16, 2018
  49. swgeek

    swgeek Sr Member

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    What does the piece for the window glass look like on that DC-9?
     
  50. Studio Kitbash

    Studio Kitbash Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That model does not have window glass, instead it's all a smooth surface with "window" decals.
     

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