Razor Crest

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


Analyzer

Sr Member
I picked up the stls from Gambody

There are two scales. 1/34 designed for FDM style printes and 1/68 for DLP/SLA style printers

I debated shrinking it down by 6% to get to 1/72 but I did not want to risk screwing anything by making a part too thin to support etc..

1/68 is close enough anyway considering Bandai's 1/72 kits aren't all true 1/72 scale anyway (B-WIng and A-Wing I am looking at you for starters)

Besides, if all goes well I can always try printing out a scaled down one later and give this one to my brother or someone as a gift

At any rate. after 12 hours of printing on the Anycubic Photon (upgraded) I have the front halves printed

IF anyone else has built, or plans on building this, please feel free to join in and post here as a group build or with any tips or problems you ran into

1/72 Mandalorian for size

IMG_4338 (2).JPG

IMG_4336.JPG

IMG_4339 (2).JPG

IMG_4340 (2).JPG
 
Last edited:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Coooooool. I have some Razor Crest STLs that are in my virtual "stash" to one day get around to printing. How are you going to do the clear canopy? Print in clear resin? Or vacuum-form some clear styrene over a buck?

SB
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
Coooooool. I have some Razor Crest STLs that are in my virtual "stash" to one day get around to printing. How are you going to do the clear canopy? Print in clear resin? Or vacuum-form some clear styrene over a buck?

SB

With a resin printer I am not sure if clear is an option. Although I think there are some near clear resins, although tinted blue or green

I think these are FDM


There is also this where they said they were able to get the parts needed from a pepsi bottle Razor Crest 3D Printing Model | Assembly

However, that might have been for the larger FDM one

I will most likely print out a vacuform buck if the pepsi bottle thing does not pan out.

The last resort of course is just print the window parts and paint them gloss black
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

OlivierC

Active Member
I will most likely print out a vacuform buck if the pepsi bottle thing does not pan out.
This will probably gives you the best result. I have been using clear PTEG sheets. It's not cheap considering what it is (just a sheet of plastic) but it will look much better than printing with clear resin. From my one time experience trying to print a visor, you don't get bubbles in resin prints, but you don't get a very clear look, it looks more frosted. Instead I printed a solid piece, sanded it smooth, built a getho vac-forming machine just big enough for my part (take a box, drill small holes on the top, one big hole on the side to plug vaccum cleaner and voila), and vac-formed it. It's worth the extra effort. You can even tint it later with die if necessary.
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
This will probably gives you the best result. I have been using clear PTEG sheets. It's not cheap considering what it is (just a sheet of plastic) but it will look much better than printing with clear resin. From my one time experience trying to print a visor, you don't get bubbles in resin prints, but you don't get a very clear look, it looks more frosted. Instead I printed a solid piece, sanded it smooth, built a getho vac-forming machine just big enough for my part (take a box, drill small holes on the top, one big hole on the side to plug vaccum cleaner and voila), and vac-formed it. It's worth the extra effort. You can even tint it later with die if necessary.

Thanks!

I'll have to check the PTEG stuff

I have one of these so it should be pretty easy.

I can use the printed windows to help create the bucks

85756.jpg
 

OlivierC

Active Member
Yes, but be careful when using the 3d printed part as is, if it's too thin, it might snap under the suction. it happened to me. Either modify the part in 3d to be thicker or fill the underside with clay so it does not collapse when you put lower the plastic sheet
 

Jedi Dade

Sr Member
Very Cool. I have thought about doing the same thing but I'm having issues with my Mars... I need to go back to school with it :).

Jedi Dade
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Looks amazing so far. I’ve been stockpiling stls of the Razorcrest for a while but will maybe need to stump up the $ for this one. I would want to scale up to 1/48 so maybe need to wait until I can replace my elegoo mars with a Saturn before I embark on this!
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
Yes, but be careful when using the 3d printed part as is, if it's too thin, it might snap under the suction. it happened to me. Either modify the part in 3d to be thicker or fill the underside with clay so it does not collapse when you put lower the plastic sheet

I was actually going to cast a buck using the print as the "master" for the top surface. i.e. the buck will fit the print on top so when I vacuform the sheet, it will be the same size as the print instead of vacuforming over the print. Hopefully that makes sense

I am most impressed! Best 3D print I have yet seen.

Looks amazing so far. I’ve been stockpiling stls of the Razorcrest for a while but will maybe need to stump up the $ for this one. I would want to scale up to 1/48 so maybe need to wait until I can replace my elegoo mars with a Saturn before I embark on this!

The person/people who created the stl files did an amazing job and they are totally worth the price. There are lots of great things on that site

Also, I have been amazed at the details the Anycubic Photon S can get, especially for it's price. I have to start saving up for the Mono that came out.
 

Analyzer

Sr Member
First failure while printing the center hull. 6 hours into an 11 plus hour print

not sure what happened. Might have been the area around one of the cutouts being too weak and started sticking to the FEP,you can see where supports stopped printing, although it continue to print other parts

At least I can recycle it as scrap material or a wreck in gaming terrain. Might also make a nice Star Destroyer style wreck for a Falcon base

On the plus side, the cockpit printed out nicely

IMG_4351 (2).JPG

IMG_4347 (2).JPG




IMG_4355 (2).JPG

IMG_4353 (2).JPG

IMG_4349 (2).JPG

IMG_4356 (2).JPG
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Looks very cool - I find those kind of gaps the hardest to fill, because you don’t want to have to fill and then sand, as it’s so easy to accidentally sand away all the surrounding details. I’d probably use several layers of mr surfacer 500 and then use IPA to flatten it out. Even with tiny sanding sticks I don’t think I could do it the conventional way.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Jaitea

Master Member
I use Perfect Plastic Putty, which is a water soluble filler,....paste it on & remove with a baby wipe,...the filler will stay in the gap

OR!! just use household DIY PolyFilla,...same as Perfect Model Filler, but a bit grittier

Both these are non-destructive to models,....wash away with water, but once coated with primer, they are part of the model

Deluxe_Materials_Perfect_Plastic_Putty_1.jpg
71l6vPWwhYL._AC_SX679_.jpg


J
 
Last edited:

Real Scooby

Well-Known Member
Looking awesome already. As I doubt Bandai will come up with one in the near future, I guess my next bigger investment will be a resin printer
Just curious, do you think your used files would scale down to 144 ? Just my prefered scale for ships like Falcon, Slave 1...
 

JPH

Sr Member
for clear, resin cast of the windshield, try Epoxacast 690. Degass the you-know-what out of it. Use Eco-flex for the mold. Since it is going to be thin, you won't notice the refractive error. Holding it up to your eye, you may not be able to read an eye chart 20 feet away, but an object an inch or two away will be easily visible.

A thin cast of most transparent resins usually does give a good result if it is thin. I don't think you will be casting thicker than 1mm.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top