Rattlesnake - Kyra Rattler Revisit
- Thread starter A Hunters Moon
- Start date
A Hunters Moon
New Member
Following along with the built in rebreather it made sense that the hose attachment wouldn't need an intake hose. It would however need an outlet for expelled air and one for the power supply.
Last edited:
A Hunters Moon
New Member
Forced? You're the one who said you were bored. I just provided the link and a suggestion. What better time to comment? 
A Hunters Moon
New Member
It's called apoxie sculpt. Very neat stuff. It feels a lot like clay. It has a three hour working time but becomes rock hard within twenty-four hours. No shrinkage.
A Hunters Moon
New Member
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roninpredator
Sr Member
can't wait fo the next update!
A Hunters Moon
New Member
Instead of going step by step through the process of molding , as several others have done, I thought I'd offer up a few bits of insight as they come to me.
At the top of my list is the fact that I hate chip brushes. You can quote me. lol My first beauty coat was riddled with twenty or so hairs that fell out of the cheaply made brush I used. Luckily I was able to remove them before the silicone set. To get around this I plucked each one before I used them by gently pulling on the bristles. Any layers after this were virtually hair free. At one point I ended up using a few polyester brushes when I ran out of the others and these just happened not to leave fibers behind. They're also as cheap as chip brushes. Just carefully test them out because they can sometimes have an adverse effect with certain silicones.
Hope this is helpful to a few of you and lee . . . . . . right back at ya.
At the top of my list is the fact that I hate chip brushes. You can quote me. lol My first beauty coat was riddled with twenty or so hairs that fell out of the cheaply made brush I used. Luckily I was able to remove them before the silicone set. To get around this I plucked each one before I used them by gently pulling on the bristles. Any layers after this were virtually hair free. At one point I ended up using a few polyester brushes when I ran out of the others and these just happened not to leave fibers behind. They're also as cheap as chip brushes. Just carefully test them out because they can sometimes have an adverse effect with certain silicones.
Hope this is helpful to a few of you and lee . . .
. . . right back at ya.
A Hunters Moon
New Member
Yeah, you'll see that in a future update.
A Hunters Moon
New Member
Not much of an update this time around. Laid down some thicker layers and I'm allowing them to dry. Will add a few more later and continue on to fiberglass stage.
kanji
New Member
[quote name='A Hunter's Moon' timestamp='1321413211' post='322632']
At the top of my list is the fact that I hate chip brushes. You can quote me. lol My first beauty coat was riddled with twenty or so hairs that fell out of the cheaply made brush I used.
[/quote]
I'm really digging your work on that bio, definetly unique design and quality of the work is superb.
What comes to cheap brushed that chip and break hairs. I've done fiberglass work for many years and during that time I've used all kinda brushes.
On big layups I don't want to spend big money on quality brushes so I learned a good way to use cheaper ones from the RC Plane forum.
Trick is to tap the brush agains surface so all the already chipped hair and hair pieces fall, then brush hairs with your thumb to mess those up, then tap it again so rest of the loose bits fall our. After this you simply run thin CyanoAcrylate (superglue) at the root of the hairs. Super glue sets really fast and secures all the hair roots so hair braking is really minimal. This takes like 30seconds to do and even the cheapest brushes will work like charm
At the top of my list is the fact that I hate chip brushes. You can quote me. lol My first beauty coat was riddled with twenty or so hairs that fell out of the cheaply made brush I used.
[/quote]
I'm really digging your work on that bio, definetly unique design and quality of the work is superb.
What comes to cheap brushed that chip and break hairs. I've done fiberglass work for many years and during that time I've used all kinda brushes.
On big layups I don't want to spend big money on quality brushes so I learned a good way to use cheaper ones from the RC Plane forum.
Trick is to tap the brush agains surface so all the already chipped hair and hair pieces fall, then brush hairs with your thumb to mess those up, then tap it again so rest of the loose bits fall our. After this you simply run thin CyanoAcrylate (superglue) at the root of the hairs. Super glue sets really fast and secures all the hair roots so hair braking is really minimal. This takes like 30seconds to do and even the cheapest brushes will work like charm
A Hunters Moon
New Member
The fiberglass shell turned out a little thin even after two coats. However, it's still very sturdy and should do it's job.
I'm really impressed by silicone now. After hearing a few mold horror stories I was a little concerned throughout the process but was put to ease when demolding. On close inspection there were no air bubble or even blemishes, my main concern. It turned out nicely and all I would need to do was a little trim work.
Up next: The first cast!
I'm really impressed by silicone now. After hearing a few mold horror stories I was a little concerned throughout the process but was put to ease when demolding. On close inspection there were no air bubble or even blemishes, my main concern. It turned out nicely and all I would need to do was a little trim work.
Up next: The first cast!
Darth Pinhead
Active Member
I'm not even sure I'd trim it. That looks outstanding, brother! Solid eye candy!
