Quick ANH E-11 scope question

[Timmythekid]

So in preparation for the (eventual...man, this is going to be a painful wait ) arrival of my Anovos TK kit, I've decided to finally get on with a metal E-11 build I meant to start a couple of years ago after I built my first PVC blaster.&nbsp; Having built a funnel-based M-19 scope for the first blaster, I decided this time to look for a real scope and something more in line with the M38 version.&nbsp; The best I could find at the time was a surprisingly cheap M47A2 on fleabay (I think I paid like thirty bucks for it shipped).&nbsp; I have read that it is <em>fairly</em> close to the M38 in shape and size, and to me the most obvious difference is the roughly 1 inch long section in front of the bell which is a slightly smaller diameter than rest of the upper tube (if that description makes sense - if not, it's where the spring clamp would have held the scope).&nbsp; Now...questions:
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<br>.<br>1. Is that it for differences, or is there more I should be aware of?&nbsp; If that's it, I'm thinking to address it by wrapping some thin styrene around the smaller section ad bondo-ing the seams.&nbsp; Assuming I can find a reasonable adhesive to do that, it leads to...
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<br>2. Practicality - What would I use for paint to match the existing finish?&nbsp; I'd rather try to match that one section as best I can than try to repaint the whole thing and still preserve the lettering and the natural 80 years of wear and tear.
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<br>3. Someone tell me these things are plentiful, because I'm starting to feel a little guilty about slapping plastic and bondo onto an 80 year old tank scope just to make a pew-pew laser gun.
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<br>4.&nbsp; Just for curiosity sake - the optics are pretty clear on this scope, and I can see the (I assume this is what it is) elevation markings when I look through it.&nbsp; But they're sideways - what should be the bottom of the reticule is on the right side of the scope - anyone know how to adjust that? It's not the notched ring around the eyepiece, so I'm not sure how else it would have happened.
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Any thoughts?

 

[mugatu]

I wouldn't call them plentiful, but they aren't super rare either. I'd use the one you have and repaint the whole thing. Google "M19 M38 M38A2". There is a very good page someone it together showing the differences of these from the side. Also, the lenses can be removed and cleaned. I've never done that myself, but I would think that the reticle is on one of the lenses...of course I could be completely incorrect about that last part.

 

[Timmythekid]

Thanks, I've been working off a photo comparison someone created of the M19 and the various M38 versions, but they don't give me a great sense of size, or of any details on the left side of the scopes (for example, another thing I noticed is that the 'teardrop' shape on the left side of the m47 seems smaller and less deeply pronounced than on the m38s), so I'm just trying to get a sense of the whole piece. Cheers!

 

[QCWolf]

I used an M38A2 in my build seen here:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=210742

I liked the A2 version. It has a little lamp module on top and is not screen accurate. However, I like it for exactly that reason. I like the addition of that little greeblie on top and I think it adds to the look. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Marv]

Go here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23958-my-second-e-11-blaster-build/ you can see the comparison between the scopes.

 

[RogueTrooper]

There is an m38 scope on ebay for $220.

All the M class scopes have big and small differences.

I've never seen an authentic affordable M38, so you will have to pay big for one or go resin.

The M38 scopes I build look the part and have clear lenses. They have hollow points for depth, but not through like an authentic scope. Have you ever looked through the lens of an authentic WW2 M38 scope??..............for me, it's not worth $200-$300....but hey, that;s just me......however if you intend to build a full metal e11...then a resin M38 just won't do will it:cool

 

[jkno]

The photos below could help you see the differences in scopes





M38 and M40 are pretty identical. Depending on year you can have 2 variants of M38/M40: the one with the front foot (as put on an E-11) that drops straight down, and the one with the front foot having a curve (Master Replicas used the latter on their E-11).

M38A2 are not screen accurate, but you can customize them by filling the groove and then they will look like a non-A2 version. And they are cheaper than the others.