Protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts AKA 3D Print Coating

Cosmeo

New Member
Hi All,

Has anyone here tried/ used this product for their PLA projects:


I'm thinking this will save some work on my Boomerang phaser plus other related projects I'm planning.
Yep it's not bad. Good for organic shapes, bad for fine detail or sharp corners. Lot of ppl that do use it are swapping over to using the sla resin and 405 nm flashlight its thinner so fills in layer lines and cheaper, better control doing small sections. For either wear a mask all these things can be scary toxic. Another option would be to use the 30 min cure epoxy from BSI works about the same and much cheaper. Very thin coats and take your time.

The xtc-3d gives a good sandable outer shell but you will still need sanding so your not getting out of it that easy. Also make sure you get the ratio right, to much harder and the thermal reaction will deform pla, to little and it never fully cures. its not that finicky but you do need to pay attention. Spread it out in a paper plate wrapped in tin foil to increase your working time, as a bigger mass makes it cure faster. Use cheap brushes as they wont be useable after, make sure you pick out the loose hairs as you brush it on. like the others THIN coats will serve you better then globing it on. Also you'll want to either paint the part or hit it with a UV clear as it will yellow a bit in sunlight.
 

JPH

Sr Member
Gloop is a glue for 3d printing, that also levels prints lines but is very toxic.

Xtc is great for stuff that doesnt have alot of fine detail.
 

benhs1898

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I feel like a lot of these things come down to what you’re comfortable with. Like I personally hate bondo, but that’s just because I’m bad at using it. I know some people are great with it.
 

JPH

Sr Member
It's my first time at prop making so experimenting I guess :)
perhaps,

you could tell/show us what you are working on...

and we could chime in on what we would do.

It might save you some time and $$$ or lead YOU...

... yes, YOU, true believer, into developing/uncovering a new and improved way to do something!!!

Some of us old fuddy-duddies have grown comfortable in our grumpy old ways, and your openness to the field could teach us something! Just like how I learned the joys of Gloop to smooth prints!

***TIME CAPSULE FROM TEN YEARS IN THE FUTURE FALLS BACK IN TIME***

Well, Initially, I was going to use the jph technique for streamlining this process...HA!!!

but then I decided, Nahhhh! I'd much rather used the Feltman Langer method. And let me tell you, I am sooo much happier I did! Completed the process in a third the time, got married, discovered the cure for cancer *AND* wrote the highest selling rock music CD in history!

jph died a miserable, old cow, not willing to change. :(



FINAL SAFETY WARNING: Remember,when working with resin, and especially sanding resin, wear an airway covering that has a filter! You can develop allergies to resin

Adam Strange helmet anyone?
 

Attachments

  • JPHRPF.jpg
    JPHRPF.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 40

kalkamel

Master Member
I've tried coating 3D prints with XTC-3D and photopolymer 3D resin and all I can say is nothing beats the good old filler primer, spot putty, sand, filler primer, sand, filler primer, sand etc method. :p
 

JPH

Sr Member
So, I found a boomerang phaser on Thingverse and set it up with the exposed sides up...meaning minimal supports on the part of the prop folks will see. = minimalcleanup!!!

This is not my model! I did not create any of it.

...but I moved the pieces around so you can print the whole thing at one time on an Ender 3.

I would prolly cast the grips out of rubber or silicone

 

Attachments

  • rpfPhaser2.stl
    5.8 MB · Views: 28
So, I found a boomerang phaser on Thingverse and set it up with the exposed sides up...meaning minimal supports on the part of the prop folks will see. = minimalcleanup!!!

This is not my model! I did not create any of it.

...but I moved the pieces around so you can print the whole thing at one time on an Ender 3.

I would prolly cast the grips out of rubber or silicone

Thanks, I actually got this one printed:
As it has separate parts so easy to paint etc... and I believe is the most accurate on thingiverse :)
 
I've tried coating 3D prints with XTC-3D and photopolymer 3D resin and all I can say is nothing beats the good old filler primer, spot putty, sand, filler primer, sand, filler primer, sand etc method. :p
This is the way I'm going on this project :)
I'm also lucky, my print guy has made a pretty smooth PLA print so not too much work hopefully.
 
perhaps,
you could tell/show us what you are working on...
and we could chime in on what we would do.
It might save you some time and $$$ or lead YOU...
Hi!
This is what I will be starting shortly:
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.
Top