Probably a dumb saber/t-tracks question

[OBIWANJALOPY]

Hi everyone: I'm a longtime SW guy (all the way back to '77) who has only recently gotten bit by the replica bug. This summer with the excitement in the run-up to TFA I started a modest collection of static hilts, mostly MR. It's been really fun and these boards have been invaluable.

I've also picked up a few flashes to do some work myself. I have a graflite and am slowly and carefully going to build a 'Holiday Special' saber, with some generous help and advice from 'Kurtyboy.' (Thank you again, sir.) I also picked up a Heiland Flash, which shockingly arrived in even nicer condition that the photos and description led me to believe on Ebay. It's really in great shape. I wanted to build an ANH Vader, but since then I've decided to make it a little more custom and so it is now going to be a "Vader Inspired" hilt more than anything, with a few unique flourishes thrown in. However, I do want the saber to have the traditional t-tracks, so I ordered a set from Roy. Here's my (again, probably real dumb) question:

For those of you who have applied tracks to sabers in the past, what kind of process have you used to ensure that they are strait and symmetrical? I'm clumsy as all get-out and assume I will either get them on slightly crooked, or one track will be too close to one and too far away from another. Is there some sort of guide that helps you to do this? Do you just eyeball it? Are you marking up the flash with lines or something to know exactly where to place the tracks? I'm sure these are all stupid questions, but any advice from folks with experience is appreciated.

Also, I assume two-part epoxy is the way to go, although I've seen some recommend some sort of double-sided tape. What says you, oh people who know more than me?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks so much as always for the general friendly vibe and willingness to dispense advice I've noticed on these boards.

 

[veektohr]

I prefer epoxy, but two sided tape certainly has it's appeal. I like epoxy specifically because I can still make adjustments to alignment as it cures for a few minutes. dIf you have a q-tip saturated with rubbing alcohol, it's pretty easy to clean up any unwanted smeared glue as long as it hasn't completely set. I find I always have a little straightening / nudging to do as well. I just take the "eraser" and dissolve the unwanted glue that may have been exposed.

 

[SethS]

What he said--

As for placement, there's various templates out there you can google up that are easy to print out and tape onto the flash to give you guides. Personally, the six-grip option I've found easy to eyeball. You get the first into the place, then play opposites. But for the odd numbered 7 grip situation-- my OCD couldn't handle it so I had to use the template.

 

[thd9791]

There's something to be said for gentle pressure too. I use the 2 part epoxy method and do each grip one at a time.

1) mix a small bit of glue and apply with a toothpick down the glue channel.....small beads so it will spread out when you...

2) lay it down on your saber. you can use the clamp or endcap as a guide. If you didn't use too much glue it shouldn't slide very much because there IS a glue channel...so you have two parallel surfaces, if you're gentle....it will set itself at a right angle.

3) i hold my saber flat, parallel to the floor, and wait for the 5 min to elapse. in this time i can nudge it, if it does slip.

repeat for all 6 or 7 grips

 

[OBIWANJALOPY]

This is all very helpful. Thank you all very much. I just printed out a few different templates, which I think will be of particular help.

 

[newmagrathea]

When I've glued on my grips I would only glue one on a day during the week because I wanted to keep it oriented straight up (flash laying on its side) so the grip would not slide. Take your time and give each grip you glue on several hour to cure before moving on to the next one. I use an open clamp laying on its side to keep the flash from rolling.

 

[Lichtbringer]

I always use 3M double sided "Tartan" tape - no need for daylong wait to see the final progress. It says full strength after 24 hours, but directly after using it it´s tough enough to handle the next t-tracks.

 

[spoudastis]

I use e6000 glue for the grips. I was nervous about this at but e6000 has been recommended by a number of people and it worked out perfectly. As for placement I would definitely use a template. I believe parts of star was has a template for Luke ANH that you print out and wrap around the tube to mark top and bottom placement. If you need more or less grips I would make a custom template. Good luck.

 

[JDunn]

I used a two part epoxy, works great and drys fast. For keeping it straight, I used the template from partsofstarwars

To mark it on the saber I cut knotches about 1cm into each of the spots for the grips, making sure to leave the spaces in between at full length.

Hope that helps!

Joel