Possible to weld/repair cast metal (Sidkit type metal)?

[dr_slurpee]

Is there any way to weld/bond/repair/fill holes in cast metal? I'm talking the type of metal Sidkit used (I believe it's some form of pewter but I could be completely wrong).

Anyone have any tips, tricks, or tutorials?

 

[Mechamaniac]

In the old sidkit build thread, there were guys who were doing away with the seam lines using solder.

 

[Gigatron]

Have you tried JB Weld? Or there is another product, much like plumber's putty. It's a 2 part clay epoxy, that when kneaded together, dries as hard as steel, but can be filed/drilled/shaped/etc.

I'd be careful doing anything that requires heat. Cast metal, in my experience, has a fairly low melting point. Using a soldering gun may cause more damage than it fixes.

-Fred

 

[cheech9898]

I think it was Boba Debt that soldered the seams 1st. I can't find in the sidkit thread where he said how he did it, but I think it was a small jewler's torch as you can localize the heat quicker and any type of soldering iron heats the entire thing to much and warps/melts a large area before you know it since you have to hold the iron on it.

 

[dr_slurpee]

Yeah I couldn't use JB weld since I intend to have the piece plated afterward. I'll keep waiting in the hopes that someone might have more info.

 

[RGPFX]

There's this stuff that is like a filler putty composed of aluminum that is listed in the micro-mark catalog. It says that you can even make parts out of it.

http://www.micromark.com/LAB-METAL-3and4-LB-CAN,7594.html

I've never tried it, but it sounds interesting.

RGP

 

[TridCloudwalker]

Yeah I couldn't use JB weld since I intend to have the piece plated afterward. I'll keep waiting in the hopes that someone might have more info.

If you're planning on plating then soldering is your only choice, and you'll have to make sure every trace of flux is gone afterward. Soak and scrub the part in greased lightning, rinse thoroughly, and then swab it all down with alcohol. The cleansing bath the plater gives it isn't strong enough to remove the flux, and any litle bit on there could cause the entire plating to fail.

 

[Hirohawa]

There's this stuff that is like a filler putty composed of aluminum that is listed in the micro-mark catalog. It says that you can even make parts out of it.

http://www.micromark.com/LAB-METAL-3and4-LB-CAN,7594.html

I've never tried it, but it sounds interesting.

RGP

Has anyone tried this stuff?

 

[dr_slurpee]

Has anyone tried this stuff?

I am curious about that too. Though I doubt I'd find it in Canada easily anyway.

TridCloudwalker, thanks for the tip about the soldering. Any chance you have any tips on actually soldering it?

 

[cheech9898]

There are several aluminum filled auto body fillers that most auto body shops stock. USC makes All-Metal (2 part, requires a hardener) and Alvin makes Lab-Metal (single part, air cures through mosture exposure) in a regualar and hi-temp version that can be powdercoated. I've used USC's All-metal for quarterpanel seams on cars & painted over and had no problems with it. I've heard Lab-metal taking a long time to cure and I've seen it leave edge lines when powdercoated due to the difference in expansion rates between the filler and the steel car frame.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

I did quite a bit of soldering (well... more like WELDING) of pewter when I cast my Jubel Early pistols. I used a small but powerful butane torch to spot-heat the exact point I needed to weld.

The main challenge is that the metal needs to be at melting point to join, but the low melting point of pewter makes it VERY hard to keep the entire piece from collapsing into a puddle of goo.

What I did was first apply steady flame to the piece for a while and when it started to get hot I would take the torch away for a couple seconds, then reapply, then take away again and so on. I would usually lay the soldering thread on top of where I wanted the weld to be- that way, when the pieces were how enough they would automatically bond. When pewter is about o melt you see a slight change in shine on the surface. I definitely recommend finding some scrap bars of pewter to practice on.

I am curious about that too. Though I doubt I'd find it in Canada easily anyway.

TridCloudwalker, thanks for the tip about the soldering. Any chance you have any tips on actually soldering it?

 

[TridCloudwalker]

TridCloudwalker, thanks for the tip about the soldering. Any chance you have any tips on actually soldering it?

Joatrash summed it it perfectly. And don't worry if it goes on all globby. You can always sand them smooth. Just make sure it all gets into the seams.

 

[androidandy]

Here is a thread on propsummit for a member who did extensive work on a sidkit BR blaster...
http://www.propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=1274&start=0

more on the barrel...
http://www.propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=1273&start=0

Andy

 

[Boba Debt]

Here is an excerpt from my original thread

Sidkit's Mal Blaster Assembly Tips Thread



SOLDERING THE UPPER AND LOWER SIDE PANEL SEAMS

I think the upper and lower seam where the 2 side panels meet and make the barrel socket are the most distracting issue of this kit.

I decided to solder my seams to give it a more gun like appearance. I could have filled them with epoxy but I wanted them to be completely transparent once I applied the bluing agent and that wouldn't happen with any type of filler.

Soldering these seams does not inhibit the removal of the side panels, they just become a single unit that can be slide off the frame if needed.


THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR BEGINNERS!


I have a lot of experience soldering and I caused a lot of damage to my right side panel during my first attempt

The method I used can only be described as painting the solder onto the seam, I will try to explain it, but I will not go into more detail then listed below so please do not email or PM me for more information.

If you want this done but do not feel you can do it, I will consider doing the work for hire on a singular basis, email me at bobadebt@ec.rr.com for more info.

Now onto the process.

Remove the barrel and Thumbscrews (if possible) but leave the rest of the gun is assembled, clamp it so that it does not move.

Apply flux to the seam.

With a steady motion run the tip of the soldering iron along the seam, this will fuse the existing metal together and create a "trough"

Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, let the tip come to full heat and "paint" the trough with the solder.

Repeat this process until the trough is over filled.

Repeat this process until all of the seams are filled

Use files and sand paper to blend the troughs until they are flush with the surrounding metal.




This is how my gun looks but I had to do extensive repair to the right panel and I'm still not happy with it

I ordered 2 more panels from Sidkit and I will post more in-process pictures when I fill those seams.