luckyumbreon
New Member
can this work with a raspberry Pi screen?
PipBoy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4 (mid-grade)
- Thread starter bbroerman
- Start date
bbroerman
Jr Member
I've looked at the 4" square HyperPixel, and using that with a Raspberry Pi Zero 2, with headers, and then running the other boards off of the I2C header on the HyperPixel. Zapwizard is doing similarly, but the other IO components are being run by a Pi Pico instead of I2C... You'd have to change the screw holes around on the caddy that I designed to fit into the front bezel. You'd also have to re-write the software, as it's for arduino and not Raspberry Pi. (I'll probably be getting one soon, as I am working on a World of Warcraft "Dark Portal" for my son, with an animated portal)
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bbroerman
Jr Member
So, I have to give a LOUD shout out to AR Speedometer and Gauge repair in Tulsa OK. I found them on Ebay looking for the Simco MAC motors, and they found a similar one (close enough I can use it) and are sending it to me for just the cost of shipping! Amazing and friendly people for sure!!
luckyumbreon
New Member
Well I am using it for something other than a Fallout Cosplay and the only thing that seemed to fit for what I wanted was the PipBoy. It appears it will work for what I want so now onward to production. thanks for the feed back so quickly, and happy prop making.
pomwah
New Member
New to this thread. I'm building, very, very slowly, a Pip-Boy and found this screen recently ....
teslabe
Sr Member
That looks like the display I used with my rebuild of the flawed Bethesda Pip-boy 3000. It's the same display that was used by Bethesda, I just used the display driver board that came with the displays I bought. At the time I was looking the board did not come with hdmi, not a big deal for my project. You can take a look at my tread, you might find some info that could help with your project.
Pip-Boy 3000, How to handle a paperweight, I think....
I have two of the Fallout 4 Pip-Boy Deluxe Bluetooth Edition props that went bad, so I thought I'd start a tread for anyone that are going to try and repair, modify or rebuild their "paperweight". This is what I've done so far. With the help of my friend "rworne", he is handling the software, I...
www.therpf.com
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pomwah
New Member
Thank you teslabe, I'll be checking out your rebuild thoroughly.That looks like the display I used with my rebuild of the flawed Bethesda Pip-boy 3000. It's the same display that was used by Bethesda, I just used the display driver board that came with the displays I bought. At the time I was looking the board did not come with hdmi, not a big deal for my project. You can take a look at my tread, you might find some info that could help with your project.
Pip-Boy 3000, How to handle a paperweight, I think....
I have two of the Fallout 4 Pip-Boy Deluxe Bluetooth Edition props that went bad, so I thought I'd start a tread for anyone that are going to try and repair, modify or rebuild their "paperweight". This is what I've done so far. With the help of my friend "rworne", he is handling the software, I...
bbroerman
Jr Member
Yeah, I looked into that display as well, but I wasn't sure about it (I've never bought from Ali Express, and it looked kind of suspicious) The main problem I had with the board supplied is it's size. There's not a whole lot of room with the YTEC model, unless I move the display further back in the body, which wouldn't give me much room for the rest of it (display controller, Raspberry Pi Zero, and the I2C boards I'd need). I am looking at doing another one in the not-too-distant future with a 5" HyperPixel, but again, I have to move the display further back, and hollow out more space in the front display bezel.
bbroerman
Jr Member
For anyone doing a similar model to mine, I still have a bunch of the potentiometers (with built-in detents) as well as extra circuit boards for the LED backlight of the Rad Gauge. I also have extra boards for the rotor board on the adapter reel, and will most likely have extra boards for the radio dial.... The extra PCBs I'll let go for just postage. The potentiometers, I'll sell cheap ($5 plus postage) to make some of that money back... If enough people want to do one, I may go ahead and buy the Simco MAC movement. They have a minimum order of 10 (for $18 each). I don't want to buy 10 when I only need 1... I have someone sending me something that *may* work for the rad gauge, but I'm worried it may be too big. They do have one I can use, for $100, and I have to un-solder the MAC from it... cheaper than $180, but still....
pomwah
New Member
Thank you.
I've never had any problem with AliExpress, not sure I'd be connecting anything they sent to my WiFi network though, at least not without checking it with a packet sniffer first. Got the screen and driver board, the screen does the job, if a wee bit oversize, but the board is big and the offset ribbon connector doesn't help. I've ordered a couple of smaller boards and, if they complement the screen, I'll strip away unnecessary components.
I guess I'm lucky that I'm trying to build a Pip-Boy 2000 Mk VI almost from scratch, if an item, like the 5" screen is not a perfect fit I can modify the design. My 3D printed model uses Victhor's Pip-Boy, on Thingiverse, as a base and I'm adjusting it as needed.
bbroerman
Jr Member
Please let me know if you find a good display driver for that screen, and what all you had to do to get it working. I'd love to be able to make that screen work for my next version (It's a better fit than the HyperPixel one I'm looking at)
bbroerman
Jr Member
So, I got the older air core motor from AR Spedometer, and it's too big like I was afraid of... Next option (when I get paid) is a different gauge that's $100 each, and un-solder the MAC from it, unless I can convince at least 3 people to go in with me on an actual purchase of the SimCo MAC I actually need.
bbroerman
Jr Member
Got 12 circuit boards for the radio dial if anyone is interested in one. I did have to widen one of the pin holes for the diffuser & spacers, though. Going to solder on the LEDs and the potentiometer and test it out.
Oh, had to modify the STL for the radio dial cover, "PB3k Mk4 Phone body buttons 1 (cut part b)" to make some extra room for the PCB (the google drive has been updated)
Oh, had to modify the STL for the radio dial cover, "PB3k Mk4 Phone body buttons 1 (cut part b)" to make some extra room for the PCB (the google drive has been updated)
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bbroerman
Jr Member
LEDs and Pot soldered in, wire harness and test resistor soldered in too. I think it may be just enough light to work. I'm printing out a new diffuser and spacer, so I may put in a different resistor, I may not... This is the same resistor I used for the Rad Gauge lights, so I'm probably good.
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bbroerman
Jr Member
I have the dial, indicator, gears, and backlight installed. I wish there was more "diffusion" of the light, though. But, I don't know what to do differently. I also tried to use a waterslide decal on the front, but it wouldn't stick to the PLA diffuser and just made a mess. Either way, I have time to think about it more. I'm not going to glue that piece into the rest of the Pip-Boy until I get the rad gauge motor, and get that figured out.
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bbroerman
Jr Member
Finishing up the push-to-eject. I threw out the pattern I put together in FreeCad (based on a Micro USB eject) and went with one I saw that was 3D printed (albeit a lot larger) and came up with this... So far it's working nicely. I just need to get a smaller screw for the follower. This model doesn't depend on small steps down in the path, just that the follower arm is a little tight and generally keeps it's place when moving forwards or backwards. The offsets in the sides of the track do all the real work.
This pattern was based on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544557/files and downsized to fit.
Now, this is definitely not the final version. I still need to get some M2x5mm washers instead of these, and an M1.6x6mm screw for the follower. I'm probably also going to put a clear-coat on the holotape, and sand it a bit so it's a little smoother.
This pattern was based on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544557/files and downsized to fit.
Now, this is definitely not the final version. I still need to get some M2x5mm washers instead of these, and an M1.6x6mm screw for the follower. I'm probably also going to put a clear-coat on the holotape, and sand it a bit so it's a little smoother.
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bbroerman
Jr Member
So, experimenting with the SparkFun motor controller zapwizard was using at one point (since it's I2C it is supposed to be easier 
Anyway, I got it working within a couple minutes, borrowing some of his code, and got it spinning counter-clockwise in a full circle... I started with it counting up by 1 degree at a time, then 2, then 3... when it got to 3 it started doing something really weird! (see videos included).
I tried seeing what it would do just going from 0 - 180 degrees, and then from 180 degrees back down to 0... and it just stayed in one quadrant, going back and forth (0-90 and back)
They have a direction on the setDrive and they have a setInversion... not sure what that second one is for and can't find anything on it.
Suggestions?? Anyone know of a tutorial on this board that would cover a 4-wire bipolar stepper (Google comes back with nothing)
Anyway, I'm using their Arduino library (which doesn't come with much instruction or examples). Here is the code to set the position
float radian = angle * 0.0174; // Convert the angle to a radian (math below only works on radians)
double sin_radian = sin(radian); // Calculate sin
double cos_radian = cos(radian); // Calculate cos
int sin_coil_direction = 0;
if( sin_radian < 0.0 ) {
sin_coil_direction = 1;
sin_radian = 0.0 - sin_radian;
}
int cos_coil_direction = 0;
if( cos_radian < 0.0 ) {
cos_coil_direction = 1;
cos_radian = 0.0 - cos_radian;
}
float sin_coil_voltage = round( sin_radian * 255.0 ); // Calculate voltage needed on coil.
float cos_coil_voltage = round( cos_radian * 255.0 ); // Calculate voltage needed on coil.
// Set the pixel to something that represents the position we're trying to achieve (since Serial isn't working)
pixels.fill( pixels.Color( 0, int(trunc(sin_coil_voltage)), int(trunc(cos_coil_voltage)) ) );
pixels.show();
// Move the pointer
myMotorDriver.setDrive( LEFT_MOTOR, sin_coil_direction, int(trunc( sin_coil_voltage )) );
myMotorDriver.setDrive( RIGHT_MOTOR, cos_coil_direction, int(trunc( cos_coil_voltage )) );
delay(5);
Anyway, I got it working within a couple minutes, borrowing some of his code, and got it spinning counter-clockwise in a full circle... I started with it counting up by 1 degree at a time, then 2, then 3... when it got to 3 it started doing something really weird! (see videos included).
I tried seeing what it would do just going from 0 - 180 degrees, and then from 180 degrees back down to 0... and it just stayed in one quadrant, going back and forth (0-90 and back)
They have a direction on the setDrive and they have a setInversion... not sure what that second one is for and can't find anything on it.
Suggestions?? Anyone know of a tutorial on this board that would cover a 4-wire bipolar stepper (Google comes back with nothing)
Anyway, I'm using their Arduino library (which doesn't come with much instruction or examples). Here is the code to set the position
float radian = angle * 0.0174; // Convert the angle to a radian (math below only works on radians)
double sin_radian = sin(radian); // Calculate sin
double cos_radian = cos(radian); // Calculate cos
int sin_coil_direction = 0;
if( sin_radian < 0.0 ) {
sin_coil_direction = 1;
sin_radian = 0.0 - sin_radian;
}
int cos_coil_direction = 0;
if( cos_radian < 0.0 ) {
cos_coil_direction = 1;
cos_radian = 0.0 - cos_radian;
}
float sin_coil_voltage = round( sin_radian * 255.0 ); // Calculate voltage needed on coil.
float cos_coil_voltage = round( cos_radian * 255.0 ); // Calculate voltage needed on coil.
// Set the pixel to something that represents the position we're trying to achieve (since Serial isn't working)
pixels.fill( pixels.Color( 0, int(trunc(sin_coil_voltage)), int(trunc(cos_coil_voltage)) ) );
pixels.show();
// Move the pointer
myMotorDriver.setDrive( LEFT_MOTOR, sin_coil_direction, int(trunc( sin_coil_voltage )) );
myMotorDriver.setDrive( RIGHT_MOTOR, cos_coil_direction, int(trunc( cos_coil_voltage )) );
delay(5);
bbroerman
Jr Member
For the ESP32-S3 QT PY board, the one I'm testing the motor driver with until I put it in the other system, I ordered a 128x32 oled display that can be driven by I2C to print debug output to, since I can't get the serial monitor to work... May help me debug the motor driver issues
*EDIT* I got the serial output from the ESP32 to work. I can get debug tracing now! Still going to hook up the display, though. I'll take up the other I2C port.
*EDIT* I got the serial output from the ESP32 to work. I can get debug tracing now! Still going to hook up the display, though. I'll take up the other I2C port.
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