Phase 2 Clone Pilot (Including Preparation) & Hello!

Aured

New Member
Hello all and greetings from the UK. I'm new here and judging from the quality of many builds I've seen on here this is the place to go for epic costumes!
Anyhow, I'm going to attempt to make a full costume of Clone Pilot Warthog, starting with the helmet.
I'm going to post a brief list of the steps I'm going to build it in, and it would be really great of you guys to point out any errors or tips. Thanks!

1 - Make model in Pepakura.

2 - Print onto cardboard. Glue model together.

3 - Harden model with fiberglass, etc.

4 - Apply Bondo one area at a time. Sand and sculpt until smooth.

5 - Cry deeply as model fails to look anything resembling good.

6 - Keep sanding.

7 - Other parts will be made with, perhaps wood or plasti-card to ensure that the parts are as accurate and sharp-looking as possible.

8 - The final product sanded and with wood/plasticard extras glued or puttied on should be perfect. (I hope.)

9 - Pour plaster OUTSIDE the helmet to make a negative vacuum mold. (I wonder how well the details will stand out in the mold? Will quality be lost?) Saw mold in half and remove model.

10 - Using negative/female vacuum-forming at a high level of pressure (70psi max, as I have heard this produces outstanding quality), form a product out of 1/8 inch plastic. (I wonder if this is possible, as the plastic is so thick? Will it even go into the details?)

11 - Sand/putty to remove seam-lines.

12 - Paint and make inside of helmet.

And the voila! Main concerns are sculpting (making the corners sharp etc.) but I'm sure this can be done with the right tools and improvisation. I've heard sanding is the longest job of all, and I'm mostly concerned about getting the smoothest dome, etc. The rest looks to be a piece of cake judging from builds on here.

Thanks to all who look and reply!
 
A hard casting from a hard positive is not a good idea (correct me if I'm wrong, anyone)
It will lock itself in on the details, and something will break during seperation.

I'd recommend a silicone mold.
 
I can't find much silicone mold stuff on teh interwebs, but it looks like an interesting solution. the main issue is keeping as much quality from the sculpted model as possible.
 
Silicone is the way to go. They have different hardnesses based on your needs, and you can get all the detail to transfer with no problem.
I have some I ordered off teh interwebs for making 2 a two part mold for one of my sculptures, and I'll see if I can find you the link.
 
Okay, update time. It's hard getting the materials together, and I'm back to the drawing board on the helmet because of this:
http://www.starwars.com/img/explore/encyclopedia/characters/waxer_relationship.png
http://www.starwarshelmets.com/2009/Original-AOTC-Clone-Trooper-004.jpg
Notice the corners of the helmet lens. The movie version curves while the animated version does not. As I am trying to make a "movie version" of the animated version of the clone pilot helmet, I'll need to account for this. More updates as they become available.
 
Which version of the pilot lid are u doing? The initial pic u posted is a animated phase2. Your later pic is a animated phase1

Lots of uk suppliers fr silicone and resin , check out eastcoast fibreglass, mb fibreglass, Tiranti or mould life. It's rtv silicone shore 20 to 25.

Lastly r u building for the fun? Asking as there are kits available for phase 1 clone pilots.

Nate
 
Okely Dokely. Heatshock, I'm doing the Phase 2 because, as far as I can tell, nobody has done it before.
Taking the curves into effect, this is what the new helmet should look like (on the left):
aad.jpg

Photoshop skills: off the chart lol. Back soon gangstas.
 
Wow that's gonna be a job and a half. U might want to base it off a phase 2 lid then, like the MR or KWD ROTS movie helmet rather than the phase I

And u are correct, no one has made one yet. Are the rest of the shapes gonna match the animated helmet, or are going to mod those too?

Nate
 
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