Pepakura Clay Pour Method

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by PepMaster, Dec 29, 2011.

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  1. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    To start this off you will need:

    Melt-able Modeling clay (NSP recommended)
    A Styrofoam mannequin head
    A completed pep file of your choice
    Oven mitts (for holding onto the pepakura item while you move the clay around and for filling so you don't get burned)

    Step 1:
    Go ahead and construct your pep file as usual simply cut it out and glue it. There is no need to resin the completed piece because you need to be able to pull it off later. Afterward i do like to coat it with primer just to give it some stability and it also helps with the high heat you'll be dealing with. If there are any gaps or holes in the seams of your pep you'll need to fill them or clay can leak out. Hot glue or tape is good for this.

    Step 2:
    You'll start off by melting bricks of clay to pour straight into the pepakura "mold" you've just made. I would highly recommend doing this step outside on a portable stove or grill side burner because it generates a lot of smoke that will choke you and burn your eyes if you do it in a closed space. Also try to do it in an old pot of some kind because lets face it its going to get ruined. NSP clay medium is what i used and it is by far your best bet on this and i find it overall to be cheaper as well. Keep in mind that in total this will require 18+ pounds of clay to complete and it is sold in 2 pound bricks. Melt your clay on low temp because it can burn.

    [​IMG]
    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Step 3:
    Now once you have a good bit melted pour it into the Pepakura mold and roll it around the sides a little and let it cool. This is just to give it a nice thick coating before you put the mannequin head inside. Depending on the pepakura size and the head size you might have to do some bulking out with cardboard to take up a little more space in the helmet just so you arent wasting clay also you should wrap it in tin foil. Once the first layer has cooled place the mannequin head inside and while holding it in place begin pouring your other layers and let them cool this should now give the head a good sturdy setting and you can just pour the rest as you go. I would only melt one or two bricks at a time as you go. (keep in mind it will be extremely hot and you should take safety precautions)

    [​IMG]
    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Step 4:
    Once you've poured enough clay into the mold and filled it up set it aside to cool for a few hours then the fun begins. Now simply begin peeling of the paper from your pep little by little to reveal your clay helmet. Now it can be smoothed and detailed as you wish and when you're happy with it mold it ! this method is great for giving you an accurate and scaled place to start for sculpting a helmet to cast and when you're done you can remove the clay from the head and re use it for another helmet. Good Luck.

    [​IMG]
    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Credit goes to Skylow for the original post via the 405th.
    http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26253-Pepakura-Clay-Pour-helmet-Method
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011
    wildabeast and Qui-Gonzalez like this.
  2. jnjoker100

    jnjoker100 Active Member

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    Effing Genius!

    Edit: is that clay reheatable?
     
  3. sgtski

    sgtski Member

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    I have heard of this method before, but now with the images and full explanation I think i will have to give this a try. It has to be easier than bondo, and possibly cheaper once you make the initial clay purchase. Thank you so much for posting this.
     
  4. Qui-Gonzalez

    Qui-Gonzalez Master Member

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    I have to rep you for such a novel idea! Isn't the Bondo method cheaper, though?
     
  5. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Yes you can re-heat the clay. For most helmet items I find that you only need about 3 bricks (4.5 pds.) each to fill the paper mold with. Depending on the size of the item, more/less clay. You also don't want the foam head sitting flat on the bottom of the inside. This way you don't end up with foam showing on the top of the sculpt. As you can see the foam head is also wrapped in aluminum foil to keep the foam head from melting.
    The bondo method is probably about the same value, you just don't have a buttload of sanding to do when you do it this way. Or the smell of the bondo or resin to deal with.
     
  6. j0wE

    j0wE Well-Known Member

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    Great idea.
     
  7. craden

    craden Member

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    thats excellent!! will have to give this a try
     
  8. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    This method is also similar on how I made my latex Iron Man neckseals at one point. I did it a bit differently however. With this way you can make your items out of latex.
    First build the pepakura Iron Man neckseal. Second, lightly resin it. Third, stick waterbased grey clay inside the piece fully filling it. No need to heat it up or anything like that. Also make sure to give it a bit of clay around the bottom edge so when it's sitting flat on something you have a clay wall on the bottom. Now get yourself some plaster of paris. Do a couple detail coats, then apply the plaster thick for the first layer, plaster bandages and plaster for the second layer, and a thick coat of plaster for the final coat. Flip the plaster buck over and pull out the clay. Then peel out the paper, wash the mold out and let it dry.
    Now you're ready to make latex neckseals. You can dye the liquid latex with acyrillic paint, if you use red, your latex will be a pink color when mixed, if you use black it will be a grey color, etc., etc. Brush two coats of latex inside using a chip brush, then slush cast 2 coats after the brush coats dry. Once it's dry pull out your latex neckseal.
     
  9. STEALTH

    STEALTH Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Did you credit the guy you took this method from on the 405th
    You just copied and pasted his whole thread.
     
  10. Qui-Gonzalez

    Qui-Gonzalez Master Member

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    Ooooops.

    Edit: Maybe Pepmaster is Skylow? You are right though, as this is the same thread down to the images.
     
  11. STEALTH

    STEALTH Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
  12. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Sorry I'll give credit to Skylow in the original post, I just forgot is all. But I have used this method for my own items and it works perfectly. I just figured this would help people here as well as it's helped people over there.
     
  13. STEALTH

    STEALTH Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You forgot the most important part in my opinion

    But remembered to copy and paste everything else exactly as shown.

    Ok..
     
  14. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Anyways if someone needs help on doing this let's just leave this thread to helping with doing this method.
     
  15. j0wE

    j0wE Well-Known Member

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    Oh, wow. That was kind of a bad move not giving credit.
     
  16. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Yes, bad move, I apologized, I edited my first post. Moving on.
     
  17. STEALTH

    STEALTH Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It was just surprising as someone like yourself who is always asking to be credited and also has removed many files for not being credited back on the 405th, would be so laxed in remembering to credit someone else.

    Could you also make the credit to him anymore obscure?
    Right at the bottom... Really?
     
  18. Tarchinoko

    Tarchinoko Well-Known Member

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  19. tk3470

    tk3470 New Member

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    Never thought about doing it that way still new to using pep files to build stuff but that does seem like a really good place to start I will have to try that for my guyver build
     
  20. pRoJectEarth7

    pRoJectEarth7 Well-Known Member

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    Why was he banned in 405th? :confused
     
  21. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    I had myself banned, was tired of the BS going on over there. The staff are lazy, can't maintain the site, and I stated it in a thread over there, plus some vulgar language added into it. The staff had been told by several members, several times that they need to fix up the site, and the staff stated in most of the threads that they would fix the site up, never happened. I'm pretty happy not being a member of the 405th anymore.
     
  22. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    Yeah I agree on the 405th the mods there are a joke. :unsure
     
  23. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    Agreed, but let's remember not to turn this thread into a flame war about another site. There are so many bad things I could say about that site, but I'll keep it to myself for the main reason I don't want to give them more of a bad name than they already have. So anyways, back on topic.
    Oh and Stealth, if you see this topic posted on 5-20-2010, Dungbeetle states that two people made some kind of tutorial that sounds just like the tutorial that Skylow made, but it sounds like Skylow did'nt credit them either for the idea. How convient. http://www.therpf.com/f11/pepakura-clay-sculpting-86681/ although the links to the threads don't exist anymore, Dungbeetle posted it on 5-20-2010, and Skylow made his thread on 7-28-2010 http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26253-Pepakura-Clay-Pour-helmet-Method , now who did'nt give credit.
    Not that I'm trying to argue with you, and I agree with you that I should have given credit to start on this thread , I forgot about it and I went back and editied that and added it in. But looks like Skylow did'nt credit Backbone and Insanetrooper. So there.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011
  24. Shades

    Shades Well-Known Member

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    I would just like to say, I think you are all wonderful people.
     
  25. NexusFX

    NexusFX Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    stay on target....stay on target.
     
  26. pRoJectEarth7

    pRoJectEarth7 Well-Known Member

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    Next page please...:D:thumbsup

    EDIT: Oh... I am on the next page... cool:cool... moving on...
     
  27. STEALTH

    STEALTH Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    he didn't mention the source of the method itself ,but it doesn't jusitfy not crediting his own work he put into the tutorial itself.

    His scenario is different he stated "I saw this from somewhere"
    He let everyone know he didn't come up with the method from the start..
    I can respect that.

    he wrote out the tutorial from his experience.
    That is his tutorial regardless.
    He put in the work, wrote up the extra details and took the pics and posted them.

    Difference is, you knew the source of your info.
    You just copied/pasted his tutorial on here .
    I also saw it on "TheHunterslair" where you "forgot" again

    If no one said anything, you'd be taking credit for it.
    it bugged me since you're picky in regards to wanting credit for your contributions.

    It was somewhat hypocritical to do that while everyone was saying "great idea"
    It didn't come to mind once to say "oh don't thank me, I got it from here" ?

    That's the point. That's all.
    I hope you get what I'm saying.

    You apologized, that's fine but trying to defend why you almost don't need to now, is not fine.

    Thank you for posting Skylow's version of the tutorial in regards to the Clay Pour Method.
    It's a great technique

    also, yes, the 405th is not the same as it used to be. I did agree with some of your points as I told you personally, but it's where most of us got our start and to leave the way you did was pretty disrespectful imo.

    I just hope you don't do this here one day when things don't go your way.
    Enough is Enough

    At least respect the place that made you get into the hobby.
    If you didn't like it, you should have just left without such a scene.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
  28. piehead

    piehead Well-Known Member

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    good technique however there is now an even better clay for pouring...well in my opinion. i would go with monster clay from The Monster Makers - 866-521-(SPFX)7739 - Halloween Latex Mask Making Kits, Fang Kits, Special Effects Supplies and more in the u.s. , or mouldlife in the u.k. there are a few very good benefits to this stuff. firstly it has a lower melting point , but still has great integrity when cooled and is nice and firm, perfect for those hard edges. secondly is the density. it is a less dense clay so you get much more for your money and postage is lower. its now a firm fave in the make up f.x. world.... n.s.p. is still cool though. i'd give monstermakers a call and ask for a sample and try it. Monster Clay - (5 lb. Block) - Clay Mediums - SCULPTING & MOLDING - The Monster Makers
     
  29. JaggerWolf

    JaggerWolf Member

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    I would agree with the Monster Maker Clay - I have been using it for over a year now for making masks and at first I hated it, but once you learn to use it you'll fall in love with it.

    I use a crock pot to melt it - once melted it has a melted milkshake consistency to it and it can be brushed on or poured easily - and once removed from the heat it sets up pretty quick.

    When nice and warm it has a taffy like feel to it.

    I will be trying the clay method with my Cyrax helmet when I get the time - but instead of just pouring it in and slushing it around I think I will be painting the first few layers in - just seems a little safer than hoping all my seams and glue holds :) The after the first few layers I will pop it into the fridge for 10-15 minutes to harden the clay - then proceed to pour the rest.
     
  30. Cal

    Cal Well-Known Member

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    Would this work with plaster? Clay is expensive.
     
  31. JaggerWolf

    JaggerWolf Member

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    I would think plaster would soak the paper and fall apart...if you maybe sealed the inside somehow...but I think the main purpose of this is to be able to shape and sculpt the piece afterward which would be more difficult with plaster.....then molding the plaster sculpt would be another issue.
     
  32. Cal

    Cal Well-Known Member

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    I would make the pep out of milk jug plastic. This is an awesome idea, but I'm just learning this process and cant afford silicone to make a master mold that this would require. I'm looking for some practice, and cheap alternatives.
     
  33. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    It might work, if you coat the outside with a very thin coat of fiberglass resin to keep it from falling apart. Or mix up the plaster thick instead of watery. Like a cake batter consistency. I don't think you can use the plaster with a silicone mold, unless it's a non-inhibiting silicone. But it could be one way to make the vacuformed visor for something like the Daft Punk helmet.
     
  34. Indigogyre

    Indigogyre Well-Known Member

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    TUTORIAL COMMENTS:

    If the clay is producing smoke then that means it is burning and the heat source is way to high and should be lowered. There is a difference between melting clay and burning it.

    Microwave ovens do a wonderful job of melting clay and are fairly quick about. I've used an older one in the past and was able to liquify my clay without any issues. Yes, melting clay will pretty much ruin whatever it is you are using unless you want to spend a massive amount of time cleaning and scrubbing. When doing my clay melts I used pyrex in the past which worked out great also.

    @Cal

    Plaster while moist does not dry out as is commonly thought but has an exotermic reaction to set which basically means it is a chemical process that produces heat as a by product. You can layup plaster in thick layers as was suggested earlier by Pepmaster but that also introduces additional concerns regarding moisture and heat. Weight will be a problem with either plaster of the clay but the clay has an advantage int hat you can slowly build up layers that will bind to each other. Plaster has a tendency to not want to bind to plaster without additional prep and mechanical help.

    While clay might be more expensive up front you will be able to reuse it many times with minimal loss and you would just have to replace a bit of it every once in awhile.

    For a clay pour the thickness only has to be deep enough to support any smoothing and detail work without going through.

    Dean
     
  35. Tarchinoko

    Tarchinoko Well-Known Member

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    I would not suggest coating the outside with resin as it makes it very hard to remove the pep from the clay afterwards, If you do require extra reinforcement i suggest a bit of tape on the outside to strengthen the tabs. but ONLY on the outside as tape will show up as indents on the clay if you put them on the inside. Also speaking from experience dont let it sit while waiting for the clay to harden and cool :p I did that and ended up with a dent on my helmet at the top, just keep it moving and dont let it put all its weight on one part for extended periods of time :)
     
  36. tk1055

    tk1055 Sr Member

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    Pepmaster/Vagabond/Nintendude, This isn't the first time you have done something like this. You were banned from Cosplay.com AND the superhero costuming forum, as well as the 405th for saying the Portal gun made by Volpin was your work. You said you had changed your ways after the stunts you pulled in the PIF thread as well as never delivering on the masks you offered in the Junkyard two years ago. Looks like that was another "untruth".

    These are YOUR words, sir, direct from the 405th in regards to your banning.
    You did not ask to be banned THEY banned YOU

    Hello everyone

    As some of you may know, John Wieger (Nintendude) was banned from the forums. I am good friends with him and he wanted me to post this message as a apology to all of the members here. Thank you for reading-

    "I've been with the 405th since 2007 helping members, giving away my files, promoting the site through every panel I've done at 8 conventions so far. Going to be running the first 405th table at a convention in September to promote the 405th, and today the day after my birthday I don't just get slapped in the face, I get a full on kick in the nuts when I discover that I've been perm-banned from the site. Why might you ask? Because I used another members photos to try and get commissions on another site. Since then I've made apologies to those people and I've removed my commission ads. I've also contacted the staff of that forum and told them if they want to ban me for my actions then they can.
    But to ban me from the 405th after all I've done, after all I've helped over one incident I'm given a perm ban. I don't get to explain myself to any of the 405th mods or admins, I don't get a warning or a temp ban I get a perm ban. Why would I use another member's photos to try and get a commission because I was simply too lazy to go looking for photos of my own. I have photos of props I've made in the past, I've made a ODST pistol for Steven R. On the 405th, I've made multiple other creations. But I was just too lazy and too stupid so I used someone else's photos to do the ad with. The only reason why I did any of that was because I was desperate. I lost my father earlier this month and I ran out of options so the only thing I could do was that to try and make funds to get out for his funeral services which now I'll miss.
    If I need to make a apology here then so be it. I apologize to anyone here that I might have hurt with my actions I know it won't make it right if I do give a apology but at least I get a little relief in doing so. I have depression problems, and doing this to me has hurt pretty bad, I consider the 405th to be a second home, one where I can communicate with friends and people I consider family since I don't have much left. By perm-banning me that has been taken away and all it has done is make my depression and sadness worse. Being banned from Cosplay.com I could have taken, but perm-banning me from the 405th is like you're cutting my throat. I'm giving this message to JBetts to post on my behalf.

    Thank you -"

    Not only did you try to rip off Volpin, you did the same to Goosebot5000 who is a member here and the SCF, (Here is a link to his complaint about you http://thesuperherocostumingforum.com/topic/5362/Member-Problem-Complaint)
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012
  37. PepMaster

    PepMaster Sr Member

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    I am going to politely ask you and Stealth to remove comments not relevant to this thread, if you do not I'll have to bring a moderator into it, if anything I'll ask to have the thread closed. What I have done in the past has been resolved, and the subjects do not need to be brought up here. I have been doing very well to keep my mood in check. And this thread was only posted to help people that cannot sculpt and work with pepakura. And this thread is here to help people, not to put my actions in the past on trial.
     
  38. DaddyfromNaboo

    DaddyfromNaboo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This thread´s closed until we know what´s really going on.

    Michael
    RPF staff
     
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