Untitledmark1
New Member
Has anybody come across a screen accurate pattern for the hood yet.
Pattern for hood:
- Thread starter Untitledmark1
- Start date
Untitledmark1
New Member
The one I found was pretty good but didn't have any measurements to judge by. But I suppose it's at least a start
MrSouthpaw
Sr Member
That and her fast sewing makes it hard to follow along.
Untitledmark1
New Member
Mmmm. Not knocking the end result because it comes out a pretty good costume. But not quite a tutorial without in depeth explanations for what is going on and what sizes need to be met, or what the precise shape of the hood itself ought to be.
If only xcoser could work out their hood size issues.
If only xcoser could work out their hood size issues.
I've been looking at pics of the hood/cape and have been wondering how it works. I am not sure if this has been already established, but could the hood/cape be a sort of scarf-like design with a hood attached?
Frozen
Member
Yes, she rushes through it. I had to watch it a few times, but finally got it, and it's perfect.
How deep in the pattern do you do the indent? I'm trying to make the pattern before I cut my monk's robe fabric. If you can show me the pattern you used, that would be such a tremendous help.
That would be awesome of you! I have some practice fabric that I will use.
Ghostsoldier
Sr Member
I'd be interested, too.
Hey guys, as someone who's done a ton of pattern designing from scratch, I wanted to explain Dawn Bright's method because it seems that many are finding that she goes too fast to tell what's happening.
Please excuse my handwriting, if there's any question as to what I'm trying to convey, don't be afraid to ask. This diagram is NOT to scale, nor is it symmetrical like your actual design should be.
TO START: You will cut your fabric folded in two (because his hood is double-layered). The measurements are based on each individual and you WILL want to draft a test design with cheap fabric (muslin, broadcloth, or old bedsheets) one or maybe even many times, until you achieve exactly the look you want. Fortunately, this pattern is very fast to complete if you have previous experience with sewing.
-I would estimate the top and bottom width (BLUE & ORANGE lines) to be around 25" on Dawn's example. This is going to determine the interior depth of your hood and the size of the neck opening. You can ballpark the top (BLUE) by measuring from your helmet's brow to where the helmet begins to fall vertically downward in the rear, double that number, and add 1-3" depending on if you want to start your prototype with more or less depth. You will want the bottom (ORANGE) line to drape around your neck on the shoulders proportionately to yourself as it is on the real costume. The best way to ballpark this is to drape a measuring tape around your neck the way you think the hood should rest on your shoulders at its bottom.
-The back seam of the hood (RED) is going to be the height of the hood and it can be measured by starting from the crown (top center) of your helmet, down to the base of your neck, then add at least 3". The more you add to this number, the more your hood will "flare" on the sides, and the more it will gather or droop in the back.
-The amount of curve to add to the back is up to you. There is no hard rule, and my suggestion is that you study photos of Kylo Ren's hood shape and eyeball it when you draw it. You can always fix it for prototype version #2 ;p The basic rule here is to add some rear depth to the hood for the head/helmet, and then bring it slightly in at the neck. The more depth you add, the more it will droop, and/or the further forward you can pull it over your helmet. The more you bring it in at the neck, the less circumference you will have around the neck (this will NOT affect how much flare you end up with, but it will affect the resting point of the flare.)
Step-by-step instructions for those who need it are in the spoiler below:
This is by no means the only method for patterning and sewing a hood of this style. It happens to be one of the easiest, with the fewest steps, which achieves a remarkably similar look. Draft, prototype, fix and repeat until you're happy with your hood! I hope this helped someone.
Please excuse my handwriting, if there's any question as to what I'm trying to convey, don't be afraid to ask. This diagram is NOT to scale, nor is it symmetrical like your actual design should be.
TO START: You will cut your fabric folded in two (because his hood is double-layered). The measurements are based on each individual and you WILL want to draft a test design with cheap fabric (muslin, broadcloth, or old bedsheets) one or maybe even many times, until you achieve exactly the look you want. Fortunately, this pattern is very fast to complete if you have previous experience with sewing.
-I would estimate the top and bottom width (BLUE & ORANGE lines) to be around 25" on Dawn's example. This is going to determine the interior depth of your hood and the size of the neck opening. You can ballpark the top (BLUE) by measuring from your helmet's brow to where the helmet begins to fall vertically downward in the rear, double that number, and add 1-3" depending on if you want to start your prototype with more or less depth. You will want the bottom (ORANGE) line to drape around your neck on the shoulders proportionately to yourself as it is on the real costume. The best way to ballpark this is to drape a measuring tape around your neck the way you think the hood should rest on your shoulders at its bottom.
-The back seam of the hood (RED) is going to be the height of the hood and it can be measured by starting from the crown (top center) of your helmet, down to the base of your neck, then add at least 3". The more you add to this number, the more your hood will "flare" on the sides, and the more it will gather or droop in the back.
-The amount of curve to add to the back is up to you. There is no hard rule, and my suggestion is that you study photos of Kylo Ren's hood shape and eyeball it when you draw it. You can always fix it for prototype version #2 ;p The basic rule here is to add some rear depth to the hood for the head/helmet, and then bring it slightly in at the neck. The more depth you add, the more it will droop, and/or the further forward you can pull it over your helmet. The more you bring it in at the neck, the less circumference you will have around the neck (this will NOT affect how much flare you end up with, but it will affect the resting point of the flare.)
Step-by-step instructions for those who need it are in the spoiler below:
1- Begin with the pattern folded along its fold line, fabric perfectly aligned with itself, and wrong side of the fabric facing out.
2- SEW the RED lines shut. Use any seam allowance you are comfortable with. A standard 5/8" will suffice. This seam will NOT be visible under any circumstances. It does not need to be finished.
3- (Figure 1) Pull the hood open from the bottom and hold it taut, do not turn it right-side-out yet. Align the seams you just sewed with one another. When aligned, hold the fabric at its extremes with your fingertips. This is your center line between the two seams you just did and it represents the front of the hood. Fold the fabric flat along this line, yes it will drape oddly--that's OK. All you need is for the edge of this line to be flat so you can sew on it.
4- (Figure 2) SEW this GREEN line as close as you can to the edge. I would go for 1/4" seam allowance, but if you can do less, then do less. What this does is simulate the appearance of two pieces of fabric being sewn together at the front of the hood by creating a visible seam tuck on the right side of the fabric.
5- (Figures 3 & 4) Turn your entire hood right-side-out. Now the wrong sides of the fabric, along with those raw seam edges, are on the inside. Run your finger along the interior and poke out any bits that are tucked in. Hold it like in the very first diagram, with the RED seams on the left and right. Push the right side in on itself all the way back to the opposite side, while allowing the center GREEN seam you just did to become the FRONT of the hood. You should now have a piece of fabric which looks like the LEFT HALF of the original diagram, and the outside and inside of it are the right side of the fabric. The wrong side of the fabric is completely hidden within the layers. When it's laying flat, the top has no visible seam, the back has one visible seam, the front is two layers each with a center seam, and the bottom is 4 raw edges.
6- (Figure 5) Open the front of your hood so that you can feed the fabric under the presser foot. You're going to sew along the seam you made as close to the edge as possible. Note the position of the center or peak of the hood. You might consider marking this point with chalk or using clips or pins. Begin sewing from the bottom edge of the front of the hood with the visible front seam on the edge facing straight out. Approx. 4" before you reach the peak, roll the edge of the fabric under itself as you maintain a straight sewing line. This will turn the visible seam at the front underneath and you will sew over it to hold it there. As you pass the peak, roll the fabric oppositely back up so that the seam is on the edge again by the time you hit 4" past the peak. (**NOTE: 4" is my own estimate of where the seam begins to roll under slightly. More accurate measurements may be able to be determined in the future, and not all costumes used for the film may even have this detail. Your own costume's measurements will vary from this. Study the real costume and eyeball it!)
7- (figure 6) Your hood is done! You may opt to finish the bottom raw edges. Dawn says she attaches it only at the front edges to the cowl and leaves the back open/raw. You could attach it and finish the edges, or leave them raw. It is unknown at this time how it's attached, but you can always detach it and attach it more accurately in the future if/when that info becomes available!
2- SEW the RED lines shut. Use any seam allowance you are comfortable with. A standard 5/8" will suffice. This seam will NOT be visible under any circumstances. It does not need to be finished.
3- (Figure 1) Pull the hood open from the bottom and hold it taut, do not turn it right-side-out yet. Align the seams you just sewed with one another. When aligned, hold the fabric at its extremes with your fingertips. This is your center line between the two seams you just did and it represents the front of the hood. Fold the fabric flat along this line, yes it will drape oddly--that's OK. All you need is for the edge of this line to be flat so you can sew on it.
4- (Figure 2) SEW this GREEN line as close as you can to the edge. I would go for 1/4" seam allowance, but if you can do less, then do less. What this does is simulate the appearance of two pieces of fabric being sewn together at the front of the hood by creating a visible seam tuck on the right side of the fabric.
5- (Figures 3 & 4) Turn your entire hood right-side-out. Now the wrong sides of the fabric, along with those raw seam edges, are on the inside. Run your finger along the interior and poke out any bits that are tucked in. Hold it like in the very first diagram, with the RED seams on the left and right. Push the right side in on itself all the way back to the opposite side, while allowing the center GREEN seam you just did to become the FRONT of the hood. You should now have a piece of fabric which looks like the LEFT HALF of the original diagram, and the outside and inside of it are the right side of the fabric. The wrong side of the fabric is completely hidden within the layers. When it's laying flat, the top has no visible seam, the back has one visible seam, the front is two layers each with a center seam, and the bottom is 4 raw edges.
6- (Figure 5) Open the front of your hood so that you can feed the fabric under the presser foot. You're going to sew along the seam you made as close to the edge as possible. Note the position of the center or peak of the hood. You might consider marking this point with chalk or using clips or pins. Begin sewing from the bottom edge of the front of the hood with the visible front seam on the edge facing straight out. Approx. 4" before you reach the peak, roll the edge of the fabric under itself as you maintain a straight sewing line. This will turn the visible seam at the front underneath and you will sew over it to hold it there. As you pass the peak, roll the fabric oppositely back up so that the seam is on the edge again by the time you hit 4" past the peak. (**NOTE: 4" is my own estimate of where the seam begins to roll under slightly. More accurate measurements may be able to be determined in the future, and not all costumes used for the film may even have this detail. Your own costume's measurements will vary from this. Study the real costume and eyeball it!)
7- (figure 6) Your hood is done! You may opt to finish the bottom raw edges. Dawn says she attaches it only at the front edges to the cowl and leaves the back open/raw. You could attach it and finish the edges, or leave them raw. It is unknown at this time how it's attached, but you can always detach it and attach it more accurately in the future if/when that info becomes available!
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Ghostsoldier
Sr Member
This is perfect, Aryto...thanks for writing this up for us!
mellex
New Member
So, I know old thread, but looking at pattern photo and reading description - confused about blue and orange lines. I do get close to 25 for the blue top line, but the orange one, around base of neck where I think it would land is only around 14 (or if doubled, 28, obviously). How would Dawn have 25 for both those measurements?? Should those 2 lines be equal??
EDIT: Never mind. I got it.
EDIT: Never mind. I got it.
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