Painting Resin?

Discussion in 'Sculpture and Makeup Effects' started by Pigeonnuggets, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. Pigeonnuggets

    Pigeonnuggets New Member

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    1: What do you clean the resin with?

    2: What paint do you typically use?

    3: What do you seal it with ?

  2. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    1) Most resin can just be cleaned with a bit of washing up liquid and water to remove any mold release agent. Very rarely a resin cast will need cleaned with a bit of spray-on oven cleaner if it has a sticky surface - this is down to the mold release that's been used (and I've only ever had this issue with one resin cast I've bought).

    2) Resin can be painted with acrylics or enamels. I use a mixture of both - mainly Humbrol enamel paints.

    3) I think most people use a spray on matt clear cote, but I have painted up dozens of 1:1 busts and have never sealed any of them.
  3. Mr Mold Maker

    Mr Mold Maker Sr Member

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    1.) Exactly what Howlrunner said.

    2.) I prefer Tim Gore's Bloodline specifically, but acrylics in general. Enamel's are expensive and not that great IMO. I'm also not a fan of all the chemicals. (I say as I list various chemical ridden clear coats! :lol )

    3.) Depends on what I want the coat to be. Crystal Clear, Matte Finish, liquitex acrylic varnish, or just no sealer at all.
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2015
  4. Alaneye

    Alaneye Well-Known Member

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    1. Soapy water as said.

    2. Acrylics... lots of them out there, but use a primer first or it will scratch off fairly easily.

    3. I use Testors Dullcote
  5. Sinned

    Sinned Well-Known Member

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    I use a mixture of a lot of different acryics, but +1 for Bloodline. I just started using a few colors from the line, and I really, really like them. They do incur a bit of a learning curve though, as they (and the other Createx illustration colors) behave a little differently from other paints, they "erase" a bit as they dry, making them somewhat translucent, i.e. base colors will show through to an extent. Use this to your advantage.

    I also use a few things from Liquitex, and Golden. Createx has a nice line of other airbrushable colors, but consider the application before using them. Some of them require heat-curing, and even then, remain a little "rubbery".
    Mr Mold Maker likes this.
  6. Mr Mold Maker

    Mr Mold Maker Sr Member

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    I have noticed the "erasing" as you've mentioned as well, but a nice gloss clear coat seems to bring the colors right back if you want. I usually hit it with a Dulling spray or matte medium to take the gloss back down but the colors stay pretty true.

    It definitely is worth learning and taking advantage of. I've seen beautiful paintjobs done on latex masks that look more realistic than silicone using Bloodline.

    The only downfall IMO is that it was designed to rewet as you put other layers on, so you need to seal between every color. It definitely has the advantage if you're painting flesh tones, but where I do more out there vibrant creature paint ups, I don't love it. It can get muddy very quickly. The Freddy in my profile pic was actually the very first thing I painted with Bloodline.
  7. Jok3r0314

    Jok3r0314 Sr Member

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    I clean my resin casts with soap and water, my wife paints them with acrylics and seals them with krylon clear coat matte finish.
  8. carluccidesign

    carluccidesign Member

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    Hello, first it depends what type of resin your painting. Is it polyurethane or polyester? I normally use polyurethane. I do a lot of high detail casting and painting. First I make sure the resin cast is completely cured or set. Make sure the resin set up correctly, this is important because if the resin is not cured it can continue to offgas and weep out moisture, oils.etc. this will make painting it a nightmare.
    Next I would clean the resin with a diluted mix of acetone and water. Be careful with the tone because it can melt your plastic and soften details. If you dilute it with water it works great. Clean your casting quickly, then make sure its dry. The acetone really removes all the left over silicone oils and release..etc. Next I would use warm soapy water. Let dry completely.
    After the piece is fully dry I prep the surface. Now depending on your object you want painted you might need to lightly scuff the surface. This is to help you paint adhere correctly. I use a very soft scotchbrite pad " white" color. Once surface is scuffed blow off any dust .
    Paint. I like to use acrylics when painting resins. Acrylic is plastic paint so its perfect for painting on plastic resins. You can use oil paint, automotive paint. If you want. So once I'm done painting I allow the paint to fully dry for at least a day.
    Sealing. If I'm using polyurethane resin I would simply use a polyurethane clear coat spray. Matte or glossy. Don't over do it with the spray. I would do like 1 light coat every hour. 3 coats total. Hope this helps, if you want you can check out some of my results on my page. I made some prop hands out of polyurethane resin and painted them using this techniques
  9. Pigeonnuggets

    Pigeonnuggets New Member

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    Thank you all for your responses/insight!! As for Resin, I am using Smoothcast 300.

    Going to give it a shot, next cast
  10. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    With smooth-cast 300, the biggest thing is to make sure you mix it properly and that you don't get any raw material "swirls" in the cured cast. If you do, acetone will clean it. Then soap and water as mentioned above. A general rule with the 300 is to make a little more than you need so you don't end up pouring the dregs at the bottom of the container. That's most likely where some unmixed material will hide.
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2015
    Jok3r0314 likes this.
  11. KeLorean

    KeLorean New Member

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    can u link some polyurethane sealants? and how well does it hold up? im making jewelry that will experience a lot of touching. will the sealant wear off over time? if so can i just pour another clear layer of resin over my painted layer?

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