Paint on resin/fiberglass helmet chipping

steveo

Sr Member
Hey,

I was sadly disheartened when I looked at my SPFX Vader helmet and noticed that the paint has begun chipping. I love that helmet but am serious disappointed that this is happening. Can anyone give me tips to fix this or am I going to have to strip all the paint off and have it repainted. Why has this happened? What step was not used and what is the best paint to adhere to the resin/fiberglass?

Steveo
 
I've had that happen with fiberglass. Two possibilities for this, A) the fiberglass wasn't washed with soap and water or B) the fiberglass hadn't completely cured, leaving a surface that could not hold paint.

In the case of A, I suppose it would have to be stripped down and repainted.
In the case of B, the paint will have to be stripped and the surface somehow sealed so that subsequent paint will be uneffected.
 
You need to repost this or have it moved to teh mail forum as it is definately NOT OT.

You might get some more results on responses there also.
 
Thanks, but which forum? I've not heard of the mail forum.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cenobyte @ Mar 19 2007, 04:04 PM) [snapback]1443508[/snapback]</div>
You need to repost this or have it moved to teh mail forum as it is definately NOT OT.

You might get some more results on responses there also.
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Sounds like the painter did not prep the surface of the helmet properly. Lots of times, the release agent is not properly washed off. many release agents are oil based products and truly have to be removed with gentle scrubbing/very warm soapy water. (dawn recommended). The other thing that some painters do as a short cut, is not use a surface primer. Primers bond to resin very well, paint with no primer can still chip away.

Hope this helps. There isn't much you can do short of a repaint.

Dave :)
 
Yeah, that's pretty much what I feared. Now I just have to find the correct way to do it. Sound's like it's gonna be alot of work.
:cry

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(vaderdarth @ Mar 20 2007, 08:21 AM) [snapback]1443918[/snapback]</div>
Sounds like the painter did not prep the surface of the helmet properly. Lots of times, the release agent is not properly washed off. many release agents are oil based products and truly have to be removed with gentle scrubbing/very warm soapy water. (dawn recommended). The other thing that some painters do as a short cut, is not use a surface primer. Primers bond to resin very well, paint with no primer can still chip away.

Hope this helps. There isn't much you can do short of a repaint.

Dave :)
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Hi m8

The most common mistake when painting fibreglass is the lack of cleaning it first. People see bright and shiny clean and think itÂ’s ok to paint, leaving the recipient (you) to sort out the mess later. Not only should fibreglass be washed in warm soapy water but also then sanded with 800 grade wet and dry to roughen the surface. Saying roughen, 800 grade leaves no visible scratches, just dulls the surface, but gives the paint something to key to.

However in your case the best way to remove the paint is to use 600 grade wet and dry sandpaper and take the old paint off, then sand with 800 grade prior to painting. However on something as shaped as a Vader mask this is going to take a while so persevere and be patient. Then pending where you live to who sells it, but you can by plastic primer from most car shops which works well, or if you have assess to an airbrush or spray equipment you can buy proper 2k fibreglass etch primer, which is best. Give it a couple of coats then sand with 800 wet and dry to smooth off, then give it another 2 coats and sand with 1200 or 2000 grade wet and dry. Then give a couple of coats of matt black paint then sand again with 2000 paper, then give it another couple of coats then sand again with 2000 paper. Then give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer, sanding between coats. By using matt black and clear lacquer over the top give the paint a real depth to it.

Another thing it might have been is whoever made it used flowcoat gelcoat which is normal gelcoat mixed with wax solution so it cures in the air. Normal gelcoat only cures properly if painted onto the surface of a mould so itÂ’s void of air. Hence the inside of the mould stays tacky so the matting can be applied. If it is flowcoat it will need keying with 320 grade paper then spraying with high build primer to smooth off the scratches. The wax solution is impregnated into the gelcoat so no amount of washing will remove it.

It might be the flowcoat option, if it was made from a silicon mould, as gelcoat doesnÂ’t set to well against most siliconÂ’s, but using flowcoat instead of normal gelcoat overcomes the setting problem. However if this is done, the flowcoat should be pre coloured to save painting.

Sorry its not a more cheery reply.

:) Don

ps if you can post a picture of it so i can see where its flaking from
 
I am dealing with the same thing on one of the resin ears for my Boba. Chipped the primer right off with the paint. I was able to touch up the areas, but I fear it will just be a matter of time before I will have to repaint it. Luckily I sanded the entire surface with fine sandpaper on the other ear, and that seems to be holding up with no problems. Sorry to hear that you will probably need to repaint. Good luck
 
I think he just misspelled Main Forum ;)


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(steveo @ Mar 20 2007, 08:58 AM) [snapback]1443905[/snapback]</div>
Thanks, but which forum? I've not heard of the mail forum.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cenobyte @ Mar 19 2007, 04:04 PM) [snapback]1443508[/snapback]
You need to repost this or have it moved to teh mail forum as it is definately NOT OT.

You might get some more results on responses there also.
[/b]
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If you want an easier method to remove all the old paint, soak it in brake fluid. This is safe for plastics and resin. It won't etch the surface of your helmet, but makes the paint loosen nicely.........which can then be scrubbed right off. It's particularly good for those tiny cracks and crevices all over the helmet.

Then after it's free of paint, do the hot soapy water thing, and I actually use a dishwashing scrubber sponge with the yellow on one side, green on the other. IT is great for carrying the dish soap to the base of the oils on the surface of the castilng.

Then do the light sanding ..............and finally it's ready to prime and paint.

Dave :)
 
Brake fluid, really? I've never heard of this...are you sure it won't damage the resin or fiberglass in anyway?
 
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