Paint for Deckard's Blaster?

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jaicensolo

New Member
Anyone have any recommendations? I'm about to start painting a very nice resin print of the Anders kit, but i'm procrastinating becuase I want to get the finish just right. This will be a display piece, and won't be handled much.
Usually I use a mix of Citadel and Vallejo acrylic via airbrush, but i've had some issues with vallejo primer peeling off printed parts recently, so i'm thinking of using Tamiya lacquers for this.
Also I was thinking of using Moltow chrome or similar for the butt cap, but would that be too shiny?
 

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joberg

Master Member
Strange that your paint is peeling. Do you wash your resin kit with soap and water before painting? As for using Molotow chrome for the cap? Depends on what kind of look you're aiming for.
 

Riceball

Master Member
For the main body I'd just use rattle cans. Spray an undercoat of silver in case you want to a bit of weathering, then spray a coat of cheap semi-gloss black from Home Depot. It'll come on a bit on glossy side for something that's supposed to be semi-gloss, but that's fine. Once the paint is fully dry, rub it down lightly with some 0000 steel wool. This will get rid of the glossiness and makes for a very convincing gun blue look. If you want it to give it a little wear/weathering, just go over the areas that you want to look kind of worn (any areas that would rub a lot against a holster or would be handled/touched a lot) with the steel wool more until the silver underneath starts to show. This technique works very well for simulating wear in places where the finish has rubbed off from years of use.
 

wayouteast

Well-Known Member
It depends really what finish you're after, the worn and weathered look of the Worldcon photos or a more 'factory fresh look.

An alternative to metallic paints is to use graphite for the final finish. You prime the parts as usual, and then undercoat in a colour dependent on the tone of the final finish you want - black for a dark, blued steel look, grey or even white for a lighter stainless steel. You can use gloss or satin... I'd experiment on some scrap resin bits to see which works best for you. Once the undercoat has fully cured, you rub powdered graphite into the surface. This gives a very realistic metal effect finish as it builds up after several applications. It can be polished to the level that you want, and a very light dusting of clear coat - matte, satin or gloss - will help protect the final surface.

Here's a few of videos showing the technique:




and in this video, the guy is actually using the technique on the Anders PKD, and it looks pretty good!


Hope this helps.
 

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