Hi m8
Your have to forgive me as I am unsure what a sidious v2 is made from, but pending surface preparation to how well the paint sticks. Most things should be cleaned in a warm washing up liquid rich water, to remove any surface grease prior to painting then rinse well, (shower head works a treat,) and left overnight to dry properly. Repainting an old item, that has been handled gets a grease build up on the surface, and this can cause imperfection in the finished paint job as well, so always wash reguadless of new or old.
You say you the tape is pulling off the paint and primer, so I am guessing the surface has not been cleaned properly, or the primer is unable to key to the surface. One of the biggest mistakes is the wrong primer on the wrong surface.
I have been spraying stuff for the last 20 years and have sprayed most things, (including girlie chests
) but everyone has their own opinion, so its up to you.
If itÂ’s metal, a etch primer should be used and these can now be bought in a can from car spares shops for ease of use. When dry can be over painted with model acrylic.
ABS, UPVC, and other very shiny flexible plastics (except polycarbonate) an automotive plastic bumper primer is best. This can then be painted with model acrylics without problem.
For fiberglass it needs cleaning well first to remove the mould release wax, and if you can lightly sand it with 1200 grade wet n dry paper you can spray with most primers and it will key well. If you canÂ’t sand it, its best to use a fiberglass etch primer, for good results. (However I donÂ’t think you can get this in a spray can yet.)
For polycarbonate, tamiya make a great range for this as the paint needs to flex with the plastic, so it sticks well, and doesnÂ’t flake off when flexed.
Tamiya acrylic paints were really made for painting or spraying polystyrene plastic based models, but people use them for all sorts, as they do a good range of colours, you just need to vary the primer, pending surface.
So I tend to airbrush a lot of resin items, (ie polyurethane, etc) and have found through trial an error, the best way to get a good base coat, is to put some thinners in an old airbrush, (needs synthetic seals or it kills the rubber,) and spray it very lightly. You find the thinners just softens the surface slightly, (do not touch it at this point or the surface will be marked) then leave for five minutes and spray with automotive acrylic primer and the primers sticks like doggy do do to your shoe. Leave overnight to set, and then this can be airbrushed or painted with acrylic model paints.
As for masking tape, never store in daylight, as this will make it sticker over time. Always keep away from light in a dark draw, and never leave on for more than a few days.
Last off I really hate spraying with off the shelf cans of paint. The spray pattern and amount of paint is not really good for models, as it applies to much in an uncontrolled pattern. A cheap £10 airbursh with can of air, will give better results than an off the shelf can everytime.
However I also buy cans of paint and use them in my airbrush. I puncture the can with a bradle, and let the propellant out, (DonÂ’t try this unless you know what you are doing, if you want to try it, let me know and I will explain safely how to do it.) then tip the paint into a jar to store it. Coverage will be ten times more used in an airbrush than via the can nozzle, and the finish better is better as well.
That my 2 pence worth, but there are always other opinions, that will clash.
Don
