Oh great...another Graflex build...

DarkLyte

Well-Known Member
So this is my first major post on RPF however I've been lurking around for quite some time. Great forum! I started off this project with a basic Korbanth/Parks Graflex 2.0 kit and got in on the run back in November. I knew from the get-go that I wanted to do something unique with it and give building every component myself. The inner "grenade" blade holder showed a lot of limitations especially for a large custom crystal chamber. So I got to planning and hunting for parts, researching different techniques, and finding inspiration from a lot of the pros. Here's the specs of the build:

Graflex 2.0 set up in the TFA configuration
Plecter Labs Nano Biscotte V2 (with on board PEX hack for full power) loaded with Bespin II (Madcow) and TFA Graflex (Lord Blako)
B/B/B Tri-Cree XPE2 with all 3 die wired in parallel
Parks replica see through glass eye,
KR Sabers blade plug
28mm Bass Speaker
Solo's Hold 18500 battery
Custom chassis designed by me and printed by Shapeways
Aluminum speaker holder designed by me and turned by KR Sabers
Genuine Aqua Aura quartz crystal
Custom designed and hand made crystal chamber (by me)
TCSS Kobold D-ring
Replica red button (got it from the run on here)
VV 7/8" diffused blade (on the way)
Slothfurnace Silver Soldered clamp card

The start of the crystal chamber

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Spent some time making copper radiator fins using my drill press and belt sander

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Shots of the chassis I designed in Solidworks and had Shapeways print

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I designed the chassis to have SD card access when you slide the crustal chamber out of the bottom of the chassis. The chamber is held in with two set screws. When separated, the recharge port is also exposed.

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I designed the recharge port to sit in the top of the crystal chamber. The port is surrounded with a custom designed acrylic surround that I drew up and cut on my laser. It also has a wire pass to keep things clean.

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One of the big differences with my design was that I chose to use the top of the stock blade holder assembly and designed the chassis to fit it after being cut off of the grenade section. So I through it on the lathe and did some work after drilling and tapping a hole for the heatsink retention screw.

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Finished product (the black piece on the bottom was something I originally designed for holding the resitors but decided not to use it)

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Wiring time!

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First charge!

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First test fit.

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I decided that I wanted to blend the chassis in better with the rest of the hilt so I painted it silver.

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Wanted to make the chamber look a little more realistic so I added some weathering.

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I ended up missing a measurement and not taking the threads in the bottom half of the 2.0 into consideration when designing the chassis. So unfortunately the two halves of the saber wouldn't fit together properly...

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So I threw the bottom half on the lathe and bored the threads out...

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Perfect fit!

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TCSS D Ring

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Upgraded replica red button

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All lit up and showing off the shine through glass eye!

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All these photos were taken on my cell phone throughout the build however I am planning on taking some legit glamor shots once my VV blade arrives. Enjoy!
 
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This is by far the BEST 2.0 build I have ever seen! Now all it needs is a badass custom stand to really make it stand out ;) (Get it? STAND out? lol)
 
Wow this is amazing! I've been working on a chamber and must say its a lot harder than it looks. Also glad to see someone use a Parks v1 eye in a 2.0, I wasn't sure if it would work or not.
 
Holy **** that is awesome! I'm pretty new to any saber stuff, so my background on information is nil. But that's exactly how I pictured it would work with the crystal being harnessed for the energy. Not sure what this is based off of but that is epic man!
 
Wow this is amazing! I've been working on a chamber and must say its a lot harder than it looks. Also glad to see someone use a Parks v1 eye in a 2.0, I wasn't sure if it would work or not.

Thanks! It works but you have to cut it down to right before the threads on the backside. However you could always drill the blade holder to fit an unmodified glass eye. I just found it easier and less risky to throw the eye on a lathe and turn the excess material down.
 
Made an accuracy upgrade to the Graflex yesterday and couldn't be happier. I used 1/8" rivets for the D Ring and 5/32" rivets for the grips. The ones in the grips were cut down and pressed in (after widening the holes with a 5/32" drill bit. Since this ended up making the rivets hollow, the sound quality improved tremendously and gave the speaker more clarity without sacrificing the resonance. Highly recommend this modification if you own a 2.0. [br][br]
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Made an accuracy upgrade to the Graflex yesterday and couldn't be happier. I used 1/8" rivets for the D Ring and 5/32" rivets for the grips. The ones in the grips were cut down and pressed in (after widening the holes with a 5/32" drill bit. Since this ended up making the rivets hollow, the sound quality improved tremendously and gave the speaker more clarity without sacrificing the resonance. Highly recommend this modification if you own a 2.0. [br]

Great idea with those rivets, I might try drilling out the original hex screws to achieve the same thing :D
 
Can't take the credit for the rivets but drilling out the screws might be more hassle than it's worth. I say just get some rivets. It's a quick 15 minute project.
 
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