Obi-Wan Kenobi - Ultimate Weathering Project

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Verity Cosplay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I think there is a good market for that

I already expressed interest above but to clarify. One of the BIGGEST issues I personally have with every ANH OWK around (including Roman's, which IMO is the best modern replica kit out there) is the windvane shroud lacks the lettering as you've done.

I expect almost EVERY Roman MK1 owner out there would buy one of these if there was a run of accurate windvane shrouds w/ lettering.

just look at the obsession people go to into getting just the right clamp or screws for their particular Graflex variant.

ANH OWK needs some love in this area, badly.
 

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mrwax

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
One of the very, very few things that the old Park's MkIII replica did better than a Roman's is the lettering on the windvane. Here's mine next to my Roman's, it's sort of done up like a ROTS saber.
 

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scarf man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've never understood the urge to have the lettering on the windvane. The photos of the prop show that the lettering is absent from the prop.
At what point are you just replicating a grenade, not the prop grenade.
That being said, good job on your weathering, you've achieved a very natural looking aged look.
 

CWOODREPLICAS

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've never understood the urge to have the lettering on the windvane. The photos of the prop show that the lettering is absent from the prop.
At what point are you just replicating a grenade, not the prop grenade.
That being said, good job on your weathering, you've achieved a very natural looking aged look.

It’s all personal preference. If I was to be replicating the prop, I’d have settled with the Romans Vane. But what I’m trying to replicate here is the real parts. Most of the real parts have the letters still stamped and visible on the surface.

In my opinion, having the letters and little details adds just a little extra layer and depth to the piece.

Complete personal preference here. Just like the foil on the clamp etc etc.
 

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PrinceZip

Master Member

scarf man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It’s all personal preference. If I was to be replicating the prop, I’d have settled with the Romans Vane. But what I’m trying to replicate here is the real parts. Most of the real parts have the letters still stamped and visible on the surface.

In my opinion, having the letters and little details adds just a little extra layer and depth to the piece.

Complete personal preference here. Just like the foil on the clamp etc etc.
So, you're replicating an inaccurate vintage parts Obi Wan saber prop replica? I understand that it's a personal preference, It's just one that seems strange to me. I totally understand using vintage parts, they're rare, expensive, sentimental, real sexy stuff. This seems like you're replicating someone else's tell.
 

PrinceZip

Master Member

Run is now live

In regards to the windvane run, would you be able to offer an option to remove the letters?
 

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CWOODREPLICAS

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, you're replicating an inaccurate vintage parts Obi Wan saber prop replica? I understand that it's a personal preference, It's just one that seems strange to me. I totally understand using vintage parts, they're rare, expensive, sentimental, real sexy stuff. This seems like you're replicating someone else's tell.

The goal of this project was not to replicate the original obi wan prop, or I would have done things very differently, but to replicate the original parts used on the prop. So yes, it may seem strange but it’s a personal preference and I wanted to try and replicate the look and feel of the vintage parts, which included the lettering on the vane.

So I understand and thank you for your input here, and if I was going to replicate the original prop it would have been a very different thread (e.g no red paint, no lettering, foil, screws on clamp).
 

scarf man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Your personal preferences are strange and unappealing to me, HOW DARE YOU! :lol:
It does bring up a few questions that I will pose in a thread of my own perhaps.
Once again, good job on your weathering.

The goal of this project was not to replicate the original obi wan prop, or I would have done things very differently, but to replicate the original parts used on the prop. So yes, it may seem strange but it’s a personal preference and I wanted to try and replicate the look and feel of the vintage parts, which included the lettering on the vane.

So I understand and thank you for your input here, and if I was going to replicate the original prop it would have been a very different thread (e.g no red paint, no lettering, foil, screws on clamp).
 

AstroZopyros

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
AWESOME thread! I'm getting ready to do mine based on this thread! So, the person I bought it from on eBay super glued the outer balance pipe flange completely crooked and offset to the inner ring. Should I just soak it in acetone and try pulling it off? Or any other suggestions from anyone?
 

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scarf man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
AWESOME thread! I'm getting ready to do mine based on this thread! So, the person I bought it from on eBay super glued the outer balance pipe flange completely crooked and offset to the inner ring. Should I just soak it in acetone and try pulling it off? Or any other suggestions from anyone?
Heat will break super glue bonds.
 

CWOODREPLICAS

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
AWESOME thread! I'm getting ready to do mine based on this thread! So, the person I bought it from on eBay super glued the outer balance pipe flange completely crooked and offset to the inner ring. Should I just soak it in acetone and try pulling it off? Or any other suggestions from anyone?

Heat will do the trick. Acetone also but it might not reach the glue if it’s well ‘sealed’.
 

CWOODREPLICAS

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
One trick I used to weather an emitter was to mount it in a lathe, a little bit off center, then remove a couple thousands off from the center of the emitter body. This gives it the uneven recesses that wrap around the emitter seen in used interconnectors

I put the RPM down low and dug in a cutting tool. Essentially the same and achieved those nice uneven recesses.
 

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