cavx
Master Member
That is a great tip and would remove the risk of burning the shoes with too much heat from a heat gun. Is that like Isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol?
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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That is a great tip and would remove the risk of burning the shoes with too much heat from a heat gun. Is that like Isopropyl alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol?
cavx
Master Member
So after a few fails, I have success 
So for those that are wondering what I am doing making male and female parts, the process is -
1. The letters are drawn in CAD and then reversed. The letters are then cut into a piece of Perspex on a CNC milling machine. This gives me a female master part. The reason I don't just use this to make the letters is the difficulty of getting the letters out. And as I only have one master set of letters, I can only make one set of letters at one time. In this picture, I have poured clear elastomer on the female too to make a male master part.
2. Once I have a male master part, I then mix and pour a silicone rubber over that to make a flexible female mold that is easy to get the letters out of. I repeated the step above so I have 2 sets of letters to work with.
3. Once I had two sets of male molds made, I cut them up to better fit them in the new mold box.
This image is of the new mold that has been made from the 2 previous molds. Because I am casting the letters in their colour, this helps keep the colours from mixing and contaminating as well.
4. The cast parts are removed from the mold. You will notice these are perfect casts. To achieve this, the molds were placed back into the vacuum chamber after the pour and this ensured all the air was removed. If you look closely at the letters on my own shoes, there are tiny pits where air did get trapped during the pour. Ultimately, with an even larger chamber and slight modifications to the molds, the small pits that occur in the clear soles could also be eliminated.
If I was able to have the letter laser cut, I could have had them done as a male part and glued them to a sheet of plastic to make a male master and just poured silicone over that. This would have been easier, but would have cost more to do. If I had used a laser cutter, I could have multiple sets done and made a mold with many letters so multiple sets could be done at one time. Any this is done now, so I can make a 2nd silicone mold as I still have both sets of male masters.
So for those that are wondering what I am doing making male and female parts, the process is -
1. The letters are drawn in CAD and then reversed. The letters are then cut into a piece of Perspex on a CNC milling machine. This gives me a female master part. The reason I don't just use this to make the letters is the difficulty of getting the letters out. And as I only have one master set of letters, I can only make one set of letters at one time. In this picture, I have poured clear elastomer on the female too to make a male master part.
2. Once I have a male master part, I then mix and pour a silicone rubber over that to make a flexible female mold that is easy to get the letters out of. I repeated the step above so I have 2 sets of letters to work with.
3. Once I had two sets of male molds made, I cut them up to better fit them in the new mold box.
This image is of the new mold that has been made from the 2 previous molds. Because I am casting the letters in their colour, this helps keep the colours from mixing and contaminating as well.
4. The cast parts are removed from the mold. You will notice these are perfect casts. To achieve this, the molds were placed back into the vacuum chamber after the pour and this ensured all the air was removed. If you look closely at the letters on my own shoes, there are tiny pits where air did get trapped during the pour. Ultimately, with an even larger chamber and slight modifications to the molds, the small pits that occur in the clear soles could also be eliminated.
If I was able to have the letter laser cut, I could have had them done as a male part and glued them to a sheet of plastic to make a male master and just poured silicone over that. This would have been easier, but would have cost more to do. If I had used a laser cutter, I could have multiple sets done and made a mold with many letters so multiple sets could be done at one time. Any this is done now, so I can make a 2nd silicone mold as I still have both sets of male masters.
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DSplayer
Active Member
So after a few fails, I have success
So for those that are wondering what I am doing making male and female parts, the process is -
1. The letters are drawn in CAD and then reversed. The letters are then cut into a piece of Perspex on a CNC milling machine. This gives me a female master part. The reason I don't just use this to make the letters is the difficulty of getting the letters out. And as I only have one master set of letters, I can only make one set of letters at one time. In this picture, I have poured clear elastomer on the female too to make a male master part.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=575809&d=1452425276
2. Once I have a male master part, I then mix and pour a silicone rubber over that to make a flexible female mold that is easy to get the letters out of. I repeated the step above so I have 2 sets of letters to work with.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=575808&d=1452425263
3. Once I had two sets of male molds made, I cut them up to better fit them in the new mold box.
This image is of the new mold that has been made from the 2 previous molds. Because I am casting the letters in their colour, this helps keep the colours from mixing and contaminating as well.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=575806&d=1452425223
4. The cast parts are removed from the mold. You will notice these are perfect casts. To achieve this, the molds were placed back into the vacuum chamber after the pour and this ensured all the air was removed. If you look closely at the letters on my own shoes, there are tiny pits where air did get trapped during the pour. Ultimately, with an even larger chamber and slight modifications to the molds, the small pits that occur in the clear soles could also be eliminated.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=575807&d=1452425223
If I was able to have the letter laser cut, I could have had them done as a male part and glued them to a sheet of plastic to make a male master and just poured silicone over that. This would have been easier, but would have cost more to do. If I had used a laser cutter, I could have multiple sets done and made a mold with many letters so multiple sets could be done at one time. Any this is done now, so I can make a 2nd silicone mold as I still have both sets of male masters.
Nice! Now can you make a heel cup?
cavx
Master Member
Soon. When I do, I will also ma making a mid-sole.
RVLF
Sr Member
That's what i'm looking for : a midsole !!! So i could make more handmade mags !!! (Depending of the price ^^)
really ? is it going to be like jewan's midsole with the accurate clear sole cut outs ? are you making a kit or something similar ?that's really cool ! it reminds me of what clone props was making a midsole, heel cup,bigger ankle bubble, and clear soles if I remember, he was trying to make an alternative to have a mag like the RD and 1989 pair. any way this will be a really cool thing if your doing a heel cup, midsole, and clear soles, and nike mag letters as a thing to together, if so I will be interested in the future
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Jewan an has a cool thread going with some mags he made entirely from scratch out of EVA foam and it's very very impressive! Very accurate shape and design! His thread is on fist page! I reckon with all the talent on here the RPF team could make an accurate MAG shoe from scratch cheaper than the $4k+ RDs!
cavx
Master Member
So I made a start to re-work Jewan's patterns based on high rez images I have of the real shoes.
This is a just a part of the break down of what I need to get laser cut.
The problem here is that these new clears will not be compatible with the V2s and complete new molds will have to be created for both solid and clear parts.
I still need to re-work the rim that makes the sole into a complex 3D part and also integrate the Heel Cup.
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cavx
Master Member
Not sure yet.
since you are making new clears you can give them the blue tint like in the Nike version.
RVLF
Sr Member
cavx, I know that you're going to make a great job on this one but please go easy on it, we need a cheap version
To me there is no problem if the cole isn't crystal clear (it's better to hide a bad painting under it and some poor electronics or led instead of EL panels ^^) and some bubbles...
And what are the options to cast in ? Maybe there are other cheaper options for the midsole ? Other resins ?
Eventually you can also give a unpainted / unglued sole version to reduce the costs and give the opportunity to let everyone customize the base.
You should start a pool to see how many people are going to jump in to reduce the costs. (And as everyone haven't got the same shoe size :/)
To me there is no problem if the cole isn't crystal clear (it's better to hide a bad painting under it and some poor electronics or led instead of EL panels ^^) and some bubbles...
And what are the options to cast in ? Maybe there are other cheaper options for the midsole ? Other resins ?
Eventually you can also give a unpainted / unglued sole version to reduce the costs and give the opportunity to let everyone customize the base.
You should start a pool to see how many people are going to jump in to reduce the costs. (And as everyone haven't got the same shoe size :/)
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sweet the shoe you are working is roughly us size 11!
cavx
Master Member
According to the size chart, about US10.5
The first size I am making is US10 for me. After that, we shall see. Possibly US7 for 1:1 replica of the screen shoe. Cost aside, I see no reason why I can't do every size from US 6 to US15. As long as I get my outlay back, it is all good.
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It is hard to get consistency unless one commits an entire bottle (I buy this stuff in 8KG lots now) to one colour. At the price of the stuff, not sometime I really want to do unless I have orders for that.
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Still workig on that. I need to make up a heel cup and see how it folds and how I can actually make a mold from that. Part of me just wants to use a V2 cup, but if I can get a slightly larger, more rounded version as a master part, then all the better.
I think if people are in to this and hopefully they are this will be a AWESOME thing to do it will be a great towards more accurate mags ! for the clears wouldn't adding some dye before pouring them in the mold work ? if you could get the constancy right.
cavx
Master Member
When mixing these pigments, you need to mix batches, not 1 offs. Have a play with food colour in water and you will get some idea what I am talking about here. The difference just one drop makes is the difference between being good and not usable. And for the cost, not worth wasting product. After ending up with KGs of throw away parts, I have streamlined this to be viable.
Besides, are you wanting a replica of the screen used item or a replica of a replica?
Wow what you just said abut the replicas just poked a hole in my mind. Although the nike version has a more clean refined look, it would be cooler to say that this is a replica of a screen used pair rather than saying that it is a replica of a replica.
cavx
Master Member
Exactly and the screen used shoes had clear soles over a white rubber mid-sole that was textured with the grey and the aqua splatter. This is why I added a layer of white under my clear soles.
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