Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

[sarni1000]

There is a new batch I have a friend that works with david and he said that daivd had made a second batch with new stuff like better clears and and hopefully better el that won't have that black line problem

If this is true I just missed this new batch - which is odd since it took 2 weeks for them to make my shoes..

 

[spider2465]

If this is true I just missed this new batch - which is odd since it took 2 weeks for them to make my shoes..

You and me both. About missing the new batch, mine apparently only took a day or so to be made. Might have to get one in the newer batch when I see alot more people here getting ones with the new soles. I really like those clear ones, they look really on point.

 

[JKRIB]

Waiting for a reply from Rebecca about the new soles as well. Told her I'd like those as mine are more yellow as well. Will post her response, when I hear from her

 

[JKRIB]

delete. duplicate post

 

[TheNickFox]

It's worth noting that the soles will likely yellow regardless of what batch you're in. The first batch is probably a few weeks older and this is just showing it more.

Clear soles are hard to keep from yellowing even for the big names.

-Nick

 

[prime3446]

Waiting for a reply from Rebecca about the new soles as well. Told her I'd like those as mine are more yellow as well. Will post her response, when I hear from her

If your pair is yellowing what you could do is buy this "sauce" its called magic sole sauce its used on clear soles on jordans like the 11s, 5s and such, its like a sauce and it aplied on the clears and plastic wrap is covered over the soles you put the shoes outside in the sun and it will un yellow the clears but it will take session of 30mins-1hr to achieve the look of the icy clears

 

[WizardBTTF]

Thanks ! Haven't got my pair yet but was wondering if anyone has tried to make the ankle better than it is, how was yor result ? Wtih the clear coat do you have any pic ?

Can your post a pic of how it looks after you did that?

It's not perfect yet, but attached a comparison picture. Hard to get an even coat with a q-tip so it's kinda streaky with only 1 coat on right now. I might mask it off and just spray it lightly.

Did you buy them from David too ? What release was it ? Thanks

No I ordered them from Dragonkicks, I was saying...if they can make $80 sneakers look like the originals (as far as the build/glueing ect.) you'd think David and his crew would have amazing quality control for $600. Again I know the shoes are completely different to assemble then other reps, but still.

 

[FreddyTV]

WizardBTTF that looks awesome bro - what is it that your are putting on these again?

 

[SpecillK]

It's not perfect yet, but attached a comparison picture. Hard to get an even coat with a q-tip so it's kinda streaky with only 1 coat on right now. I might mask it off and just spray it lightly.

View attachment 649240View attachment 649241



No I ordered them from Dragonkicks, I was saying...if they can make $80 sneakers look like the originals (as far as the build/glueing ect.) you'd think David and his crew would have amazing quality control for $600. Again I know the shoes are completely different to assemble then other reps, but still.

Can you put up some pics of the LEDs on after the clear coat?

 

[prime3446]

It's not perfect yet, but attached a comparison picture. Hard to get an even coat with a q-tip so it's kinda streaky with only 1 coat on right now. I might mask it off and just spray it lightly.

View attachment 649240View attachment 649241



No I ordered them from Dragonkicks, I was saying...if they can make $80 sneakers look like the originals (as far as the build/glueing ect.) you'd think David and his crew would have amazing quality control for $600. Again I know the shoes are completely different to assemble then other reps, but still.

So u rubbed the ankle with some iso alcohol and masked around the bubble and sprayes krylon crystal clear ? And are the lights more predominant than before or is it still a blur of colors?

 

[cavx]

It's worth noting that the soles will likely yellow regardless of what batch you're in. The first batch is probably a few weeks older and this is just showing it more.

Clear soles are hard to keep from yellowing even for the big names.

-Nick

Funny. The rubber I have used stays non yellow for ages, even when placed in full sun.

I also found a proper UV inhibitor that must be mixed at a max of 1% per volume.

The smallest kit of clear flexible I can buy is 2000g (1000g of Part A and 1000g of Part B).

In the past, I have mixed a small amount of clear blue into Part B which I would still do because it makes the clear rubber into water clear.

So just confirming my math, 1%/Volume is just is just 10g per 1000G?

 

[TheNickFox]

Funny. The rubber I have used stays non yellow for ages, even when placed in full sun.

I also found a proper UV inhibitor that must be mixed at a max of 1% per volume.

The smallest kit of clear flexible I can buy is 2000g (1000g of Part A and 1000g of Part B).

In the past, I have mixed a small amount of clear blue into Part B which I would still do because it makes the clear rubber into water clear.

So just confirming my math, 1%/Volume is just is just 10g per 1000G?

That's because you're using cold process rubber.

Hot process rubbers are what shoe makers tend to be involved with, and they are MUCH harder to make UV stable.

The good news is: there will likely be a nice aftermarket for you to creat exact replicas of the outsoles in your rubber.

-Nick

 

[cavx]

That's because you're using cold process rubber.

Hot process rubbers are what shoe makers tend to be involved with, and they are MUCH harder to make UV stable.

The good news is: there will likely be a nice aftermarket for you to creat exact replicas of the outsoles in your rubber.

-Nick

Dude the stuff I use heats up to about 60degrees C in a cup after 15min. Hardly a "cold" product. I also take it to boiling point under vacuum to make sure I kick off the exotherm properly.

From the videos I watched on how they make soles they -

1. Use two parts mixed in a container (no different to what I am doing).
2. Use machined metal molds, not silicone rubber (they are also making 1000s of parts not <100 like me)
3. Fill and degas in the mold (their vacuum systems are insanely fast, pulling instant vacuums, where mine takes about 1min to achieve the same rise and fall, but from experiments, painting the inside of the mold with product and degassing that gives a better end result).
They bake their molds to help fast cure the rubber (something I can't do due to the technical limitations of my workshop).

I'll run a test on the original 2 part molds I made for Gen1 of my soles to see if I can make these as an open back pour but one part.

 

[TheNickFox]

Dude the stuff I use heats up to about 60degrees C in a cup after 15min. Hardly a "cold" product. I also take it to boiling point under vacuum to make sure I kick off the exotherm properly.

From the videos I watched on how they make soles they -

1. Use two parts mixed in a container (no different to what I am doing).
2. Use machined metal molds, not silicone rubber (they are also making 1000s of parts not <100 like me)
3. Fill and degas in the mold (their vacuum systems are insanely fast, pulling instant vacuums, where mine takes about 1min to achieve the same rise and fall, but from experiments, painting the inside of the mold with product and degassing that gives a better end result).
They bake their molds to help fast cure the rubber (something I can't do due to the technical limitations of my workshop).

Cold process just means that YOU are not heating the material to make it liquid. Super oversimplification: Hot process materials are like hot glue. You heat them up, they melt. They cool, they harden. The demold time is orders of magnitude faster than cold process rubbers.

The heat you're seeing is just the exothermic reaction at work.

-Nick

 

[cavx]

Cold process just means that YOU are not heating the material to make it liquid. Super oversimplification: Hot process materials are like hot glue. You heat them up, they melt. They cool, they harden. The demold time is orders of magnitude faster than cold process rubbers.

The heat you're seeing is just the exothermic reaction at work.

-Nick

Neither are they. This is not like injection molding plastic where the product starts off as cold or set beads, heated to melting point (like hot glue) and then force squirted into the mold to cool.

It is two containers of cold liquid that are mixed and poured and it creates heat as it cures. As I said, they bake their rubbers to speed up the cure process, so they can probably demold after an hour Vs a min of 6 hours (on a hot day) and upto 24 hours right now that it is winter here. Think of products like epoxy glue - part A part B, mix and it gets really hot.

 

[WizardBTTF]

@WizardBTTF that looks awesome bro - what is it that your are putting on these again?

So u rubbed the ankle with some iso alcohol and masked around the bubble and sprayes krylon crystal clear ? And are the lights more predominant than before or is it still a blur of colors?

I cleaned the bubble with 91% iso alcohol then sprayed gloss clear coat into a lid (so it was liquid) dipped a q-tip in and applied it to the bubble. Still tweaking it though.

Can you put up some pics of the LEDs on after the clear coat?

Sure, I'll take pics tonight

I also found a proper UV inhibitor that must be mixed at a max of 1% per volume.

If you are talking about sun devil (Not sure if you're, but its the only one I have used that has a 1% mix) your parts wont be water clear anymore. And it will VERY easily inhibit cure, even if you post heat. If you are using the rubber I think you are...you don't need it btw. I have used Crystal Clear which has the same UV inhibitors, it does not yellow even after being in direct sunlight for going on 3 years lol.

 

[cavx]

If you are talking about sun devil (Not sure if you're, but its the only one I have used that has a 1% mix) your parts wont be water clear anymore. And it will VERY easily inhibit cure, even if you post heat. If you are using the rubber I think you are...you don't need it btw. I have used Crystal Clear which has the same UV inhibitors, it does not yellow even after being in direct sunlight for going on 3 years lol.

Well that is what I am thinking too.

 

[FreddyTV]

So these guys supposedly reversed engineered a pair of authentic Mags to make the V3s - but how the hell did they manage to get the dimensions for a full size run? Doesn't that take some serious skills? And the materials as well - they are so close to the authentics that I'm sure they are getting them from the same venders as Nike. Just some random thoughts.

Regardless I'm so happy they cracked the code and are making these V3s!!!

 

[Little thief]

hi, i want to know if someone already make this kind of mod... it´s in the sole, but i don´t want to take out the sole... any suggestions? :s

 

[RVLF]

No I ordered them from Dragonkicks, I was saying.

Any link ? I only find Jordans no Yeezy on the website I found :/