New Airsoft PR On Evike

The battery that comes with the gun is crap. I knew it was bad as soon as I heard the rate of fire from a fully charged battery. It was laughable.

If you read the description of the gun is says this

(Free testing low amp. low power battery & wall charger included with each rifle, but we highly recommend using a good Matrix & compatible 8.4V or 9.6V, or Lipoly battery to power this high end AEG rifle due to the integrated high power gearbox.)

Get yourself a new Intellect or Tenergy 9.6v stick battery and you'll be fine.
Amazon.com: Intellect Rechargeable Airsoft Battery: Small Plug/Stick Configuration (1400mAh, 9.6V, 2/3A Cells): Sports & Outdoors
 
The battery that comes with the gun is crap. I knew it was bad as soon as I heard the rate of fire from a fully charged battery. It was laughable.

If you read the description of the gun is says this

(Free testing low amp. low power battery & wall charger included with each rifle, but we highly recommend using a good Matrix & compatible 8.4V or 9.6V, or Lipoly battery to power this high end AEG rifle due to the integrated high power gearbox.)

Get yourself a new Intellect or Tenergy 9.6v stick battery and you'll be fine.
Amazon.com: Intellect Rechargeable Airsoft Battery: Small Plug/Stick Configuration (1400mAh, 9.6V, 2/3A Cells): Sports & Outdoors

Excellent! Thanks for link!
 
I have to agree with CeSquared, get a new battery pack with name brand cells. I got the Tenergy 9.6v 1600 mAH battery from On Target Airsoft from their Ebay store. It arrived today, even though tracking says Friday delivery! Looks like a quality back, it uses 16awg wire, both ends are shrinkwrapped, clear shrinkwrap tube with Tamiya type connectors. I'll be replacing the connectors on mine with high quality Deans plugs. I know what high loads can do to these cheap Tamiya type connectors.
 
Also, I do NOT recommend plugging in the battery and leaving it to charge overnight. Without actually seeing the battery that comes with the gun, since it's from China and comes free and is listed as a "low power" battery, I can assume it's a 7.4v, probably 400-600mah Nicad battery. To fully charge one of these from completely dead to fully charged should only take about 45 minutes. Leaving it overnight will actually cause the battery pack to lose power and permanently damage the cells since the charger is constantly charging at full power. That wall charger is not going to switch to trickle once the cell is full.

If the battery has a partial charge, you will also lose power by trying to charge it because the battery thinks it's fully discharged and will only charge to max power from that point. Basically losing the amount of power that was already in the cell.

No battery pack should be charged overnight. Especially without a "smart" charger. I don't even charge my iPhone overnight.

If you end up upgrading your battery and want to upgrade to a good charger, I recommend this.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6-B-Balancing-Charger-Battery/dp/B00466L0BW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I even wrote a review on it.

Or this for a basic smart charger.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Universal-Smart-Charger-Battery/dp/B003MXMJX8/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t

Yes, it's additional $$$ spent but if you actually intend on shooting it, it'll be way less frustration and anger. If it's only going to be a wall hanger, then no worries.
 
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The battery that came with my PR was a generic lime green shrinkwrapped stick of 8.4v, 1100mAH cells. I have a new 9.6v 1600mAh back to replace it with. It should have a higher rate of fire. I'll test both of them this weekend.
 
The hot water trick works like a charm.

Boil some water in a pot, remove it from the stove, then stick the front of the PR into the water. The glue will actually "crack" after about 15 seconds. I took it out and was able to pop the orange caps off with my fingernail. It pops off that easily.

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I popped mine off last night using the same method. Worked like a charm. Stuck it in for about 3 minutes and then used pliers to pull them off though. Kinda hot and still the glue was still stuck on a bit.

Doing my weathering today. I need to get over being too precious with the thing and really lay into this weathering though. Nerve racking to "mess up" a 200 dollar prop. Looks so pretty new but doesn't fit the Aliens aesthetic in the end.
 
Well, I was a little more forceful with my caps. I used the gorilla method and pried them off with pliers after making a cut on the barrel. The GL cap actually just twisted right off.

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It's definitely possible to get it apart without breaking anything. I just did it. It takes a lot of patience and pulling millimeter by millimeter. Once you get the gaps large enough, I put in a flat head screwdriver and gave it a gentle twist. I got it apart without marring any of the plastic.
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It is wired through the holes in the stock so be careful pulling on it.

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It was a real beezy to get apart but I can now begin proper modification knowing I can get it back together without glue.
 
The first is a HUTU (Hop Up Tracer Unit). I have this thing broken down to the hop up chamber which is designed perfectly for a HUTU and there is plenty of clearance in the receiver.
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For those not familiar with a HUTU. It's basically putting a high intensity UV LED directly into the hop up chamber thus lighting "tracer" BB's internally without the need of a silencer-type tracer.

While I had it apart, I decided to break down a Maruzen 870 spring pump shotgun and viola! It fits *almost* perfectly!
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I don't know if I'll have time to tackle this over the weekend. The biggest problem is the magazine well don't line up. I could easily modify it, but not sure if it's worth it. It also would still fit a battery. Albeit a smaller one.

Lastly, the similar mods people have done here and a new paintjob.
 
A possible solution would be to relocate the 9v battery for the counter. You could then hollow out the rest of the shrouds magwell and fit a smaller LiPo in there to power the Thompson. Or, run the counter off the LiPo itself. I'm not going to be keeping mine airsoft functional for long. As soon as Mejinko's electronics package come out, my airsoft internals will likely be gutted.
Cool idea on the HUTU. I have a Matrix Tracer Unit coming Monday. I also have an M9 adapter I'll be machining out to fit the PR barrel. After I gut mine the TU will go on a stubby M4.


Is your M870 the shell ejecting version?
 
Sadly no. It would be impossible to fit the shell ejecting version into the GL because the gas reserve that fires the BB's out of each shell is located in the stock. For the price, you could cut down a real 870 and it would be cheaper for the same result. A non-firing, shell ejecting shotgun.

Looking at this, it's still going to take some modification to work. The pump mechanism is too long so I will have to cut it down. But then I need to see if it will still work. Then I have make a new bracket to screw the spas pump handle to.

Without annoying everyone by starting another Matrix PR thread, I might create a blog on how these break down and how to get them apart. I finally read all 17 pages of this thread and it seems quite a few people aren't familiar with Airsoft guns.
 
I didn't get as far on this as I wanted to last night. I was working on the HUTU and the damn woman wanted me to go watch Castle season 4 with her.

I did get the LED mounted into the HUTU but I need to go back to Radio Shack and get a different battery box. The AA box I am using isn't powerful enough so I'll get a 9v. You can see the first hole I drilled that was in the wrong place. I drilled it absentmindedly then put the inner barrel back in and realized the barrel covered the hole. DOH! :facepalm

Ideally, you want 2 LEDs, 1 on both sides, to illuminate both sides of the BB. This hop-up chamber is smaller than I expected with almost no feed tube which is where you'd usually put the HUTU. There is also a little plate that screws in that holds the pin that is holding in the hop up lever and bucking knob. I might take that off so I can put another LED.

Also, the bucking is some of the hardest I've ever seen in a stock AEG. I think the bucking is harder than the knob because when I turned the Hop Up wheel, I couldn't see the knob extend into the bucking. I might replace both with a softer bucking. I have several kinds for my other Airsoft guns.

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The rest is broken down and the shrouds are ready for painting. I'm going to do a stainless steel base coat then cover it with Aervoe Earth Brown which is supposed to be the closest to Brown Bess there is in a spray can. I ordered 5 cans last night.

The GL will get a SS base with a semi-gloss black. I might do the pump handle in plasti-dip.
 
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I just wanted to jump into the thread as my PR is scheduled to be delivered today! Thanks for the boiling water tip.
 
Started painting. Krylon stainless steel metalized base coat for the shrouds, GL, and brackets.
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Chrome for the GL feed ramp and bolt. I made an absolute mess of the bolt and will have to do it again but the feed ramp looks good.

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Finished wiring the HUTU. Just need to glue it up and she's good to go.
The difference between the AA's and the 9v is incredible.

2 AA Alkaline batteries.
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1 9v Alkaline battery.
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That looks incredible. I may have to rethink my Matrix Tracer Unit. I may need to pick your brain for more details on this mod.
 
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