New Airsoft PR On Evike

Thanks Jameth. Thats my last resort. I am interested to hear what Evike says. I am not going to skirmish with it so I don't really want to spend money on the airsoft function but it should work out of the box. I'd rather spend my time and effort making it more screen accurate. The shooting part is just a bonus.

I agree. I got it for the prop, not the Airsoft. Having said that, this being the first airsoft I have used, it is really, really fun.

Be sure to tell us what they say.
 
Not impressed with Evike. I sent the email to tech support explaining the problem w/ the suspect battery early Friday and their response on Monday was, "Do you have a spare 9.6v battery?"

Are they just F'ing w/ me? Would I be emailing them if I had a better battery to try? Within minutes I wrote back saying "No, I don't have a spare battery."

2 days later they reply asking me if I checked to make sure the battery was discharged before charging it. Meanwhile, the instructions specifically say you don't have to discharge Ni-Mh batteries and don't even say how to check or discharge them. Then they say I may have fried the cells if I didn't.

WTF? I followed the crappy, incomplete (and apparently wrong) instructions and they are blaming me when their product doesn't work out of the box.

I admit I am new to Electric Airsoft guns but I have a few Gas Blowback ones and am fairly mechanically inclined. They really should provide accurate, appropriate instructions that a noob can understand. As the first RMA took almost a month before I received my replacement I am very close to telling them they can keep it.
 
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Not impressed with Evike. I sent the email to tech support explaining the problem w/ the suspect battery early Friday and their response on Monday was, "Do you have a spare 9.6v battery?"

Are they just F'ing w/ me? Would I be emailing them if I had a better battery to try? Within minutes I wrote back saying "No, I don't have a spare battery."

2 days later they reply asking me if I checked to make sure the battery was discharged before charging it. Meanwhile, the instructions specifically say you don't have to discharge Ni-Mh batteries and don't even say how to check or discharge them. Then they say I may have fried the cells if I didn't.

WTF? I followed the crappy, incomplete (and apparently wrong) instructions and they are blaming me when their product doesn't work out of the box.

I admit I am new to Electric Airsoft guns but I have a few Gas Blowback ones and am fairly mechanically inclined. They really should provide accurate, appropriate instructions that a noob can understand.

Yeah, as a total newbie to airsoft I had no clue. The instructions were horrible and I had to go online to study how the whole airsoft thing even worked.

I don't know Evike from a hole in the wall, they just offered the best deal by far on the Pulse Rifle. Regardless of price it should work out of the box though.

Every Pulse Rifle owner I talked to and posted said simply the stock battery won't do it. As mentioned I think one had it working okay.

Sorry it's not going great but it will work great with the 9.6v and it is lots of fun.

Maybe they make all their profit off extra batteries.:angry :angry
 
I'm sure Evike uses the cheapest cells they can get their hands on. I would suggest going to your nearest hobbyshop that sells radio control cars. These use the same type of sub C cell batteries that airsoft guns use. You wont be able to buy a premade pack in a stick like the gun requires, but the guys there may be able to build you one for a small fee with much better quality cells. I've built many packs back when I raced RC and will build my own pack for my PR. Just a suggestion.
 
I wrote a nasty (but polite) email to tech support and got an apologetic phonecall last night from customer service saying they would send me out a new battery right away. They MAY have redeemed themselves a bit. We'll see.
 
Does anyone have pics of the internals of the SPAS cage part?

My PR is one of the ones with the shotgun shell partially visible...And I've been thinking that I probably won't be happy until that is corrected...
 
You'll have to have a little patience with evike, they're used to air soft players, not replica collectors. I've been an avid air soft player and collector for a year or two now, and it's common knowledge in air soft circles that a battery any gun comes with is better off thrown away and never used. New players wouldn't know that information, and most players have spare batteries (I have six). Sorry to those having a rough time, but if anyone has an air soft question I can do my best to answer them.

Also, I do own this pulse rifle, and I love it. Shooting at 390 fps with .2s out of the box with a 9.6 stick type AK battery makes it a formidable field weapon. Only drawback is the magazine system, especially with no spare mag caps.
 
Well, I managed to order one of these little toys. I'm waiting for it to arrive and covering threads for the best way to mod it to get the effect I want. I'm not worried about 100% screen accuracy, but those that have done some mods:

1. Installing sling mounts. I've seen a few pics where holes were drilled in the front barrel shroud and the rear stock and D-rings installed. How is the structure holding up over time? I'm not going to play airsoft with this PR when I get it, but I also don't want the gun breaking in half as I'm lugging it around a con.

2. Disassembly of the grenade launcher. I would love to put an SD Studios grenade in, but I don't have any. I'll settle for just temporarily repainting the stock shotgun shell metallic until I can get one. I would prefer not to rip the entire PR apart to replace, but I haven't been able to determine if that will be possible or not based on the manuals I've seen. Any advice there?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Just pulled the trigger.
255.27 after shipping. :)

i-see-what-you-did-there.jpg
 
My PR is torn apart right now for upgrading/painting and before I put it back together I wonder if one of the cheapo airsoft full metal 870s would be worth modding for "That sound"?

Sage advice please.
 
My PR is torn apart right now for upgrading/painting and before I put it back together I wonder if one of the cheapo airsoft full metal 870s would be worth modding for "That sound"?

Sage advice please.

I have a rather nice full metal 870 airsoft (the shorty pump version). It doesn't quite make "that sound" of a real shotgun; most of the noise you hear is not the pump moving but the bolt and action cycling. 90% of the "moving parts" of a shot gun are in the receiver. The noise comes from the feed ramp dropping, the bolt moving to the rear, the shell being ejected from the tube and then the whole process reverses when you put the pump forward again. I'm not saying don't try, but it may not have quite the effect you want; also, be advised that an "all-metal" airsoft doesn't necessarily imply that the whole gun will be metal, nor that the bolt will function in a realistic manner. That's not false advertising on the airsoft company either; they are referring to all metal as the gear box, motor, etc that actually make the gun work. Metal works much better than plastic gears. Most of the time it does mean that the barrels and receiver, et al, will be metal (not a high grade steel though, but still metal). Just read the description of the product carefully.

Charlie
 
Sorry I was referring to the size. I
It should size up pretty close right?

And anything is better then plastic on plastic, right?
 
Using a real spas cage is the only option of having a shotgun inside.

You have to shave down parts of the receiver body of the gas Maruzen + Tanaka 870's to fit.


My G+P Grenade launcher has a real remington 870 Trigger assy linked to
a 27mm CAW grenade.

I did this because it has a nice bang. I wasn't satisfied with the "fuff" sound of
the gas maruzen and tanaka.

And there is room underneath for the battery.


Another problem with using a shotgun, is that it makes battery storage a problem.
 
Sure thing bud. I was going to put this up in a rebuild gallery but it can help. Unscrew all you find then there are six metal push pins that hold it together, the rest comes apart pretty easy with gentle prying. Focus on the red spots. I recommend doing it from the non-counter side just so you don't bend the shroud with the electronics housed.
PRPins_zpsccad3419.jpg


I marred up my shroud a little trying to get it apart. I'll have to sand and fill some.
 
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Thank you for the close up pictures of the pin locations. I take it the marrings you are talking about are on the right side, just by the words "SNOW WOLF"?

Also, love the Hello Kitty. :)

Charlie
 
And above the front circle, and on the back, a little of everywhere.

That's another thing, it says Snow Wolf but it was a Matrix from Evike so I guess that shows it's the same gun.
 
Seeing some of the disassembly photos here and then reading through the online manual, it looks like it would be possible to add a pair of striker plates to the grenade launcher. Since the tube actually moves, this would allow a metal to metal contact when the pump is cycling. Aluminium wouldn't do it, but I think it a small iron plate were added it would give an approximate "cha-chunk" when the pump was cycled. My PR is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, but I only have one day off this week, so I'm thinking I will be stuck doing some minor breakdown in my shop until next week.

Charlie
 
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