New Airsoft PR On Evike

By the way it took me a good long while of messing with the gun to figure out how to get the clip inserted. Took me a bit to discover the clip-release lever, plus it was a bit tricky getting the clip to align in the slot. Though I am an Airsoft rookie!

I had the same issue with mine. A manual would make things so much easier for us airsoft rookies. Even now I have issues getting the clip to align properly all the time.


Here's another question for those experienced with these things... How much damage, if any, does it cause to leave this stored with a clip that is wound up and ready to fire? Does it screw up the springs eventually doing this?
 
I already have the M1A1 Thompson with Hi- Cap Mags...

Can anybody point me to the right direction where I can buy just the conversion kit???

Thanks in advance... :)
 
It's never good to leave a spring compressed for a long time. I also doubt they are using a real high quality spring to start with. Continually leaving it wound may lesson the overall pressure over time, but no short term side effects. You should be good, just shoot it and let it cycle every once in a while.

Fot the kit, you are looking for the G&P Pulse Rifle kit. Very hard to find in stock. Check with the popular airsoft dealers, UNCompany, Dentrinity, airsoftwar4, Redwolf, etc.
 
Okay...so after so more failed attempts to get this gun working properly, I finally figured out a surefie, easy fix if your motor wont turn the gears. This may be a common thing for airsoft peopel, but it was new to me:

So, if you can hear your motor trying to turn the gears, but nothing is happening, opening the sliding door on the side of the gun, and check on your piston. If you can only see a half cm of it or so, take a screwdriver, slide it into the track and pull back on the piston as hard as you can. The piston will click back a few notches, unstick the gears, and the gun will work again.

i think what's happening is the piston is stopping at a point where the spring is compressed so much that the motor can't turn the gears. By pulling the piston back, you move it into the firing position, and the next click of the gears releases the tension instead of cranking the spring.

Hopefully that helps anyone that is having firing issues :)
 
I've wanted a pulse rifle for many many years but the resin ones looked too cheap to me for the price and the special run ones that cast $800+ were a bit much for me. This one looks just right though and seems like it is getting good reviews SO i ordered one, its coming this week, so I am hopeful.

I plan on changing it up to a better paint job and more screen accurate look to it.

One question I have. I have seen a lot of people on this thread say "wish it came with an instruction manual." Well, it seems like we have enough people on here that have the gun, and enough people that know exactly what to do with it. Why not pool all the info together and make a manual for it?
 
I just got mine and it came with a complete instruction manual including a picture by picture break down of how it was assembled from the original Thompson sub machine gun version. I'll scan and post some pics if people are interested.
 
Doing that, or hooking up a higher voltage battery. When the piston is all the way back the motor is drawing the most power. A lower voltage battery like an 8.4 will sometimes have trouble powering the motor if it has a low charge. This will cause the gun to seize up. To remedy this issue i suggest using a 9.6 regularly. If the gun is constantly having this issue it may be something internal, But in my experience i have no problem unlocking a gun with a lipo battery.


Okay...so after so more failed attempts to get this gun working properly, I finally figured out a surefie, easy fix if your motor wont turn the gears. This may be a common thing for airsoft peopel, but it was new to me:

So, if you can hear your motor trying to turn the gears, but nothing is happening, opening the sliding door on the side of the gun, and check on your piston. If you can only see a half cm of it or so, take a screwdriver, slide it into the track and pull back on the piston as hard as you can. The piston will click back a few notches, unstick the gears, and the gun will work again.

i think what's happening is the piston is stopping at a point where the spring is compressed so much that the motor can't turn the gears. By pulling the piston back, you move it into the firing position, and the next click of the gears releases the tension instead of cranking the spring.

Hopefully that helps anyone that is having firing issues :)
 
I just got mine and it came with a complete instruction manual including a picture by picture break down of how it was assembled from the original Thompson sub machine gun version. I'll scan and post some pics if people are interested.

That would be fantastic!
 
Hey guys I just wanted to let the a few of you to know that evike also
has conversion kits available for those who already have the Thompson.
I got my Thompson from their bone yard for $60.00 and the kit is $220
so you could save a little that way. I actually bought 3 Thompsons
from there and they all work (I guess they were demos) .
I hope this helps some of you guys.
 
I've done some more modifications to mine:

(Begin thread hijack...)

I wanted mostly to repaint the greenish grey parts black. The shotgun shroud especially. The problem was that the slots were just molded in indentations, and I had painted them black to stand out more.

So, the first step was to take it all apart again and cut the slots out.

2012-PR3.jpg


2012-PR17.jpg


2012-PR21.jpg


2012-PR29.jpg


Here's with the slots now cut through-

2012-PR23.jpg


2012-PR25.jpg


While I had it apart, I did some other modifications so that I could attach the sling-

2012-PR7.jpg


2012-PR9.jpg


2012-PR13.jpg


And I repainted the fake shotgun shell, so now it looks like a fake granade-

2012-PR35.jpg


The grenade tube and loading cover I repainted a metallic gun metal. Here's what I looks like now. (I still need to get the correct strap for it...)

2012-PR40.jpg


2012-PR42.jpg


Look closely and you see one new issue this created: Since there is no actual shotgun inside the shroud, you can see the battery. Which is neon green...

(Here endeth the hijack)
 
Just saw that it's on sale for $330 (save $30), I want one so bad!!

How hard was it to remove the orange tips at the end of the barrels?
 
It came assembled, but they make it from the Thompson airsoft and their kit that they also offer. So the manual is a step by step as if you had purchased the kit, but it comes ready to go as the pulserifle. All you have to do is plug in the battery and the 9V and you are set.

FYI Mine came with a battery and Charger as well. I know previous posts in this thread say they sometimes come with a battery, sometimes not.

They DO make a point to say this is just a "test"battery, so maybe it is not as good as some of their others, can't take a lot of recharges etc, but for now it seems to work fine. I say just order the gun and worry about replacing the battery at a later time.
 
It came assembled, but they make it from the Thompson airsoft and their kit that they also offer. So the manual is a step by step as if you had purchased the kit, but it comes ready to go as the pulserifle. All you have to do is plug in the battery and the 9V and you are set.

FYI Mine came with a battery and Charger as well. I know previous posts in this thread say they sometimes come with a battery, sometimes not.

They DO make a point to say this is just a "test"battery, so maybe it is not as good as some of their others, can't take a lot of recharges etc, but for now it seems to work fine. I say just order the gun and worry about replacing the battery at a later time.

Cool!! Thanks for the info! I don't plan on using it in it's Airsoft capacity as much as I plan to admire it, show it off, and aim at the TV as I watch Aliens!!!

:lol

Hopefully those dumb orange caps come off easy enough.
 
Has anybody rounded off the buttstock end of the shrouds on one of these?

They are a great piece of kit for the money but the high squared off shroud really bugs me. It should be somewhat shorter and it should be a D shape.

I wonder how easy it would be to modify? Dremel away unwanted angles, apply some body filler, sand and repaint?

Has anyone tried this? If so, are there any pitfalls I should know about if I try it, I don't want to mess mine up.
 
I think at one point someone offered a resin kit to replace the back of the shroud with. You had to cut the rear off and graft the new section on if I remeber correctly. You might want to check the AL forum.
 
Has anybody rounded off the buttstock end of the shrouds on one of these?

I did this mod.

It is a 3d print kit of 5 parts to have a better rear shroud look.

It is not that hard to graft on, and is very durable if done correctly.

Only issue is that you have to do an alternate stock locking method.


I can post picts later.
 
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