New Airsoft PR On Evike

Quest, do not use a heat gun! The shrouds are plastic and you will melt it!
 
Haha! Thanks Robiwon:) I guess tugging and prying is my best bet...might take it to an airsoft shop first and see if my battery is shot.
 
that first link was exactly what I needed...had to see inside the shroud, so I knew where the pegs were :) !

going to give this sucker another try today.
 
Guys what's the experience with painting this?

Has anyone encountered difficulty with any mold release agents on the surface?

I'd be concerned with washing it with dish soap, or wet sanding, due to water and soap getting in to the "works".
 
If you don't want to completely dissasemble the gun give it a light scuffing with 3400 grit sandpaper. Tape off every thing else. Then use a primer, like Krylon, and you should be O.K.
 
Rough it up with some sandpaper, vacuum the dust, go over it with a tack cloth, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and then you can use krylon primer. It's either enamel our lacquer based, but it will stick to anything and it's tough as hell :cool

-Fred
 
Cool guys thanks

Thinking about going
Black Primer
Silver but not the simulated chrome type
black paint overall
Bess or or on shrouds

Then I'll sand off the black and bess where I want wear
 
Instead of sanding, to reveal the undercoat, try tape. Wait until the paint is almost dry, press a strip of tape down, and pull up quickly. You'll get a very convincing, random wear pattern. The first time I built my PR, that's how I finished it. Turned out awesome. But I wanted a "cleaner" look this time around.

-Fred
 
There are some details that you can correct before painting.

Let me take a picture of mine.







Mine had been beat to hell and back, and it shows a little.

Heavy modifications are:

Using SD stock and barrel parts. (eventually will replace with more accurate parts)

Grafting on a 3d print back side to make it more accurate.

Making a working 27mm gas grenade launcher linked to a remington 870 trigger assy.


As you can see from the picts, there are a bunch of little mods you can do + painting to make it look more interesting.
 
Last edited:
These are picts of my G+P PR.

ARES(evike pr) is a clone of the original G+P kit.

They were smart, and made it a complete AEG.



Also, the magazine tabs details are upside down for some reason.
 
Well I got my a few days ago and finally got around to buying a 9 volt to try in my counter until I can get a stick battery and charger. Unfortunately my counter was DOA and seems like there is a short somewhere between the battery connector and display. In an effort to try and double check connections at my switch, etc. I decided to pop the cover apart using Robiwon's link of the assembly instructions for the G&P kit.

Let me tell you I can only hope the shroud goes together easier than it comes apart because taking it apart was no small feat. I was very tempted to try prying along the seams but I did not want to leave pry marks in the plastic. It took well over an hour to work the two halves of the shell apart and it's far from being something suited for the faint of heart. Eventually I was successful getting the shells apart but I thought I might add some observations about the shells.
1. For anyone considering drilling out the slots in the SPAS cage be warned that on the ejection port half of the shells there are wires run along the inside above AND below the port. Not too mention the run front to back.
2. The fuse was place in a nigh unreachable section of the grenade launcher sitting right above the launcher trigger area again on the ejection port half of the SPAS cage. Also to make it extra impractical the fuse and holder are glued to the inside of the shell.
3. Personally I had wanted to swap barrel covers to use a thinner barrel which more accurately matched the move PR and I hand wanted to replace the front barrel support with a more accurate version. But what I didn't realize is that the countdown feature of the LED readout it tied to a sensor in the front barrel support so no swapping barrels for me.
4. The wiring for the counter on/off switch and battery terminal was an absolute wreck of cheap brittle wire and hot glue. It turns out they had both legs off the LED circuit board tied to the common pole on the switch so on or off it never got power from the 9 volt.

I took a few pictures with my cell phone and will try and upload them a bit later.

quest said:
that first link was exactly what I needed...had to see inside the shroud, so I knew where the pegs were :) !

going to give this sucker another try today.
Click to expand...
 
Ah! Thanks for the fuse location! I thought I saw something there, but didn't get the shroud off enough to know for sure. It looks like a different type of fuse than the usual tube fuse most airsoft use.

Will have at it tomorrow and see if I can get in there without dismantling the entire shroud :/ Definitely don't want to do any prying.
 
quest said:
Ah! Thanks for the fuse location! I thought I saw something there, but didn't get the shroud off enough to know for sure. It looks like a different type of fuse than the usual tube fuse most airsoft use.

Will have at it tomorrow and see if I can get in there without dismantling the entire shroud :/ Definitely don't want to do any prying.
Click to expand...

I was expecting an in-line glass fuse as well but they had the extra heavy duty blade type plug-in automotive fuse. The fact that they glued the fuse and socket are not going to make removing the fuse any easier. Unfortunately I don't think you can access the long screw that holds the rear of the SPAS cage together because it sits just under the edge of the shroud and its over an inch long so you can't just cheat it out. I will say that if you are going to take apart the shroud you have to remove the half WITHOUT the counter first because the counter half of the shell is screwed to the SPAS cage which is interlocked with the barrel vent and wiring which follows the upper handle of the shroud into the rear of the thompson (between the slots in the stock slide). I have to say the G&P kit is a dam engineering marvel and I take my hat off to all you folks who built up your PRs from scratch.
 
Sounds like it was a good concept, mass produce a copy of the G&P kit and sell preassembled units. But it seems the final product may suffer from poor assembly. If anyone wants to unload theirs for cheap.....
 
PHArchivist said:
How easy (or difficult) is it to take this apart for repainting?

Are there points along the way that are risky, or may be difficulty to reassemble?
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was hoping for... Thanks for the details.

Gideon Vanguard said:
Well I got my a few days ago and finally got around to buying a 9 volt to try in my counter until I can get a stick battery and charger. Unfortunately my counter was DOA and seems like there is a short somewhere between the battery connector and display. In an effort to try and double check connections at my switch, etc. I decided to pop the cover apart using Robiwon's link of the assembly instructions for the G&P kit.

Let me tell you I can only hope the shroud goes together easier than it comes apart because taking it apart was no small feat. I was very tempted to try prying along the seams but I did not want to leave pry marks in the plastic. It took well over an hour to work the two halves of the shell apart and it's far from being something suited for the faint of heart. Eventually I was successful getting the shells apart but I thought I might add some observations about the shells.
1. For anyone considering drilling out the slots in the SPAS cage be warned that on the ejection port half of the shells there are wires run along the inside above AND below the port. Not too mention the run front to back.
2. The fuse was place in a nigh unreachable section of the grenade launcher sitting right above the launcher trigger area again on the ejection port half of the SPAS cage. Also to make it extra impractical the fuse and holder are glued to the inside of the shell.
3. Personally I had wanted to swap barrel covers to use a thinner barrel which more accurately matched the move PR and I hand wanted to replace the front barrel support with a more accurate version. But what I didn't realize is that the countdown feature of the LED readout it tied to a sensor in the front barrel support so no swapping barrels for me.
4. The wiring for the counter on/off switch and battery terminal was an absolute wreck of cheap brittle wire and hot glue. It turns out they had both legs off the LED circuit board tied to the common pole on the switch so on or off it never got power from the 9 volt.

I took a few pictures with my cell phone and will try and upload them a bit later.
Click to expand...
 
^YES! Finally got mine apart today, and it SUCKED!!! a lot of prying and tugging and...god, it sucked :/

Onto the good news, my battery works, my fuse works, my motor works, and all my gears work...I've narrowed the fault down to either the trigger or the last bit of wire before the motor. Must be a short in there somewhere :)

As long as I've got the entire thing apart, I'm also going to fix the shotgun slider gap and order up a better looking grenade to replace the shotgun shell :)
 
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