Nerf Scout Trooper Blaster Repaint

[woodywaverider]

I actually have a left over target sticker I plan on using, I just need to find the right size glass.. or see if my circut can cut some thin transfer paper

My blaster came in the post yesterday, so I ordered a few bits and piece to mod it with (no 3d printer unfortunately) mainly aluminium in various sizes/shapes.

The thread in the scope is 32mm, I ordered a 1.5mm thick flat mineral glass watch face for it.

 

[Halliwax]

My blaster came in the post yesterday, so I ordered a few bits and piece to mod it with (no 3d printer unfortunately) mainly aluminium in various sizes/shapes.

The thread in the scope is 32mm, I ordered a 1.5mm thick flat mineral glass watch face for it.

Good thinking!!

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

I am printing the new files.

AnubisGuard, would it be possible to create an eyepiece part that screws in that secures a lens or faux reticle?

not the same model but you get the idea…

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

I hate that I have ideas an no skills. Because now I’m thinking with the working trigger an the free space, this thing could have lights and sounds as long as you can live with exposed screw holes to change out batteries.

 

[AnubisGuard]

@AnubisGuard, would it be possible to create an eyepiece part that screws in that secures a lens or faux reticle?

No reason it wouldn't work, though I'd need to know the thickness of the lens piece being held in; I get the sense this varies depending on what people are sourcing?

An all-in-one (i.e an insert w/ the "lens" built in) would be more practical, imo.

 

[Vagabond Elf]

I hate that I have ideas an no skills. Because now I’m thinking with the working trigger an the free space, this thing could have lights and sounds as long as you can live with exposed screw holes to change out batteries.

Lights is about as easy as electronics gets: battery, LED, switch. This could be a great chance for you to expand your skill set!

Seriously, the internet is full of introduction to electronics tutorials. Sparkfun's learning resources are often good places to start:

Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) - SparkFun Learn

Sound is more complex, but once you get started adding more complex skills is easier. The most rewarding part of finally working on my astrodroid after years has been looking back and realising "I learnt how to do a bunch of things!" I really think this is a good place to get your feet wet (not literally) and start trying things.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

I hate that I have ideas an no skills. Because now I’m thinking with the working trigger an the free space, this thing could have lights and sounds as long as you can live with exposed screw holes to change out batteries.

You could use a tube in the scope to hold 2X AAA batteries accessible by a removable recticle, or you could add a small door on the bottom of the handle for a battery box since it’s on the least visible side.

 

[chibobber]

I hate that I have ideas an no skills. Because now I’m thinking with the working trigger an the free space, this thing could have lights and sounds as long as you can live with exposed screw holes to change out batteries.

If you take off the molded transistor and you replaced it with a real one, you could hide your battery under it. Remove the screws holding the transistor, there is your battery.

 

[AnubisGuard]

I am printing the new files.

AnubisGuard, would it be possible to create an eyepiece part that screws in that secures a lens or faux reticle?

not the same model but you get the idea…

View attachment 1539056

An all-in-one (i.e an insert w/ the "lens" built in) would be more practical, imo.

Here's a basic version of the all-in-one idea I dashed off before work. No threading, it just drops in. I imagine the lens will need to be separated out for ease of printing and finishing.

NERF_Scout_Trooper_Lens_Insert_v001.obj

drive.google.com

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

If you make another edit, could I ask that you put a curve inside the opening? I think it would allow me to print that section without support. I like printing with the U-shape at the top for a smother surface.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

No reason it wouldn't work, though I'd need to know the thickness of the lens piece being held in; I get the sense this varies depending on what people are sourcing?

An all-in-one (i.e an insert w/ the "lens" built in) would be more practical, imo.

The all in one would be a hassle free solution for someone who wants a quick and easy way to not see the inside of the plastic scope.

another option:

The thread in the scope is 32mm, I ordered a 1.5mm thick flat mineral glass watch face for it.

If we assume that others might want to use the same, you can use 1.5mm as a guide.

another option:

For this that are printing their own. You could build an eyepiece with no spacing for the lens and then the person printing could slice of the proper amount per their own needs.

This might be a good option for people who want to add layers underneath a class lens like a reticle.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

Lights is about as easy as electronics gets: battery, LED, switch. This could be a great chance for you to expand your skill set!

Seriously, the internet is full of introduction to electronics tutorials. Sparkfun's learning resources are often good places to start:

Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) - SparkFun Learn

Sound is more complex, but once you get started adding more complex skills is easier. The most rewarding part of finally working on my astrodroid after years has been looking back and realising "I learnt how to do a bunch of things!" I really think this is a good place to get your feet wet (not literally) and start trying things.

The funny thing is that before I got my commission in the Navy, I started off as a Avionic Technician and did 9 months od A-school training for avionics technician (AT). I was not an AT too long before I went to OCS and also since I was at a squadron, we don't work on electronic at that level. We trouble shoot down to the box and if the box is broken, we send it off to intermediate maintenance, where they troubleshoot to the component. So I should know more about this stuff, but I don't.

I guess the first thing is getting a soldering item. Then I need to figure out how much power would be needed to do what I want it to do. Ugg,,. Ohm's Law.

You could use a tube in the scope to hold 2X AAA batteries accessible by a removable recticle, or you could add a small door on the bottom of the handle for a battery box since it’s on the least visible side.

If you take off the molded transistor and you replaced it with a real one, you could hide your battery under it. Remove the screws holding the transistor, there is your battery.

This are both great ideas. Not sure I can pull it off.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

If you make another edit, could I ask that you put a curve inside the opening? I think it would allow me to print that section without support. I like printing with the U-shape at the top for a smother surface.

AnubisGuard, also can you make the inset circle o the back a hair larger? I cannot get the end part to pop in.

 

[woodywaverider]

You could use a micro leaver switch behind the trigger, a cheap option for sound is a recordable greeting card module as long as you don’t mind a single sound file and don’t want to swap sounds

If you need to work out resistor values the the custom saber shop site has a great calculator that does the work for you.

I’m not going to go as far as adding light/sound to the gun itself, but I had the idea of making a stand for it and adding an offset red led filament to that, so it looks like a blaster bolt being fired.

 

[Halliwax]

If you make another edit, could I ask that you put a curve inside the opening? I think it would allow me to print that section without support. I like printing with the U-shape at the top for a smother surface.


View attachment 1539114View attachment 1539115View attachment 1539116

Looking good

 

[AnubisGuard]

If you make another edit, could I ask that you put a curve inside the opening? I think it would allow me to print that section without support. I like printing with the U-shape at the top for a smother surface.

AnubisGuard, also can you make the inset circle o the back a hair larger? I cannot get the end part to pop in.

Done.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

Done.

View attachment 1539236

I’m running the new files. I will post results later.


I think I did a poor job in describing the changes. This is what I was asking for…

I was wanting the roof of the inside space to be rounded at the top try to prevent or to minimize the support inside because I wanted to print in this orientation so the exposed top gets a nice smooth surface.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

Here's a basic version of the all-in-one idea I dashed off before work. No threading, it just drops in. I imagine the lens will need to be separated out for ease of printing and finishing.

View attachment 1539092

NERF_Scout_Trooper_Lens_Insert_v001.obj

drive.google.com

Did you want me to print this or were you going to add the threads?

 

[AnubisGuard]

Did you want me to print this or were you going to add the threads?

Go ahead -- I'd like to see how it fits.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

I will print the scope lens next.
.
Here is the updated print of the plunger. There is still something inside (the supports that is keeping the two halves from coming together.

I did not print the cap since even the the hole is deeper, the old one still fit.