i ordered 2, hopefully they fit over the factory one. trying to find replica scopes, i really like the clear tip
Nerf Scout Trooper Blaster Repaint
- Thread starter 13doctorwho
- Start date
AnubisGuard
Master Member
wonder if it fits this scope... was hoping for a resin kit somewhere and swap the whole scope out. im so excited for this stupid little thing, what do you guys think keep the trigger or ditch it?
SINGLE POINT REPLICA SCOPE - Blaster Factory
Reproduced from my original vintage single point scope.This cnc made aluminum nonfunctional kit includes all parts for assembly and a glass main lens. This aluminum replica can be painted and weathered to look screen accurate . Perfect for your dh17, biker scout, bowcaster,dl-21,ig-88 and other...
blasterfactory.com
he's got a whole scope setup! wicked affordable too!
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Keep it, though the builds ditching the trigger have looked really good. However, retaining some toyetic functionality is too much fun.
The Goon
Sr Member
I'm not, but if I was, I would. Don't you have to?
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
SINGLE POINT REPLICA SCOPE - Blaster Factory
Reproduced from my original vintage single point scope.This cnc made aluminum nonfunctional kit includes all parts for assembly and a glass main lens. This aluminum replica can be painted and weathered to look screen accurate . Perfect for your dh17, biker scout, bowcaster,dl-21,ig-88 and other...
he's got a whole scope setup! wicked affordable too!
I'd go for a total scope swap if someone came up with a good way to mount it to the nerf.
trying to find a accurate ring mount, could always 3d print a adapter to bolt to the blaster and have the ring mount attach to that.. i need to go study the reference now
The Goon
Sr Member
Which end of the scope? I'm planning on closing the front end of mine with a piece of sheet styrene since the "scope" on the actual props is solid, but I haven't decided about the back end yet. This is just going to be a fun project for me, doing a little accurizing and not getting all worked up about complete accuracy or authenticity. I don't cosplay so this will very likely end up being a shelf queen.
The Goon
Sr Member
I screwed up so I'll just post this here--a question about weathering. Is anyone thinking of base-coating their Blaster with either off-white or silver before painting it black so that it looks like either the resin prop or the metal "real life" weapon underneath when the black paint rubs off?
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for the price i think im just going to grab a field marshall scope for it. measuring up the orange part in the back of the blaster to try and replace it with a "slug" so its easier to fill and sand, do away with the pull/cockying mechanism
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Replacing the cocking mechanism with a more accurate tailpiece and gap filler is on my to-do list, btw. Just have to wait for my second blaster to arrive!
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Great.
most likely ill wait for you, it will take me 50 prints before i get it right lol
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
I'd like to see a replacement trigger. One that is almost smooth to the grip but just enough protrusion to give some tactile feedback using the spring.
I would guess that you should putty the backside behind the molded transistor before grinding it off incase the plastic is too thin. I guess the real transistor would cover it, but I would want to make sure the handle is still strong.
Not to be the bearer of bad news but the transistor on the nerf handle is oversized, so you'll have to sand it off (since the handle is oversized, the transistor was scaled up too). The TO-3 package is just over 1.5" long by about 1" wide. Depending on how crazy y'all want to get, you could always model one to scale up and print:
AnubisGuard
Master Member
TBH I rather like the low-profile NERF "transistor."
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
update on the left.
I can tell the nut is not as wide but hard to tell unless you have something to compare with. Not sure if it is the new design or something I did but the new nozzle is not allowing the two side to join properly. Also for printing purposes, I miss the dome interior.
I can tell the nut is not as wide but hard to tell unless you have something to compare with. Not sure if it is the new design or something I did but the new nozzle is not allowing the two side to join properly. Also for printing purposes, I miss the dome interior.
