i am planning on buying a 3d printer to make replica guns and movie props etc for cosplayers, i am torn between two printers, the Ender 3 Pro or the CR10s Pro, i have never used a 3d printer before, i have seen the CR10s Pro have a lot of negative feedback and i know the Ender 3 Pro is highly rated but would the Ender 3 Pro be good enough to print replica weapon props?
Need help picking printer for weapon props
i was told i should get a Original Prusa i3 MK3/S i know the bed is kinda small but i wil only be printing gun props which will be in parts for me to sand and paint etc and wargaming figures but you think this printer is any good? i know it has a good repuatation but do you think all the features are worth the price
ah ok well that was going to be a side thing i will look into them once i have got to grips with a normal 3d printer, the main thing i want my 3d printer for is props movie/game replicas that sort of thing and the odd bust, do you think the Original Prusa i3 MK3/S would be good enough? i have no experience but i've heard nothing but fantastic reivews and how easy it is to use and the good quality
propmaster2000
Sr Member
As an example of printing quality for prop weapons, I modeled and printed the Alliance Pistol from the movie Serenity.
I can only speak for the printers I have experience using and for keeping the initial cost and clean up time to a minimum.
.
.
.
It's not a perfect print, but for an inexpensive option (in my opinion), the CR10S and ENDER 3 models are a good choice. It can't of course compete against the more expensive choices.
A little sanding and a good paint job, this example will turn out to be a nice cosplay prop.
.
Another example of many, many prints....
.
Good luck on your choices and Happy printing
.
On a side note, be aware however that the Creality CR10S and the ENDER-3 are both open frame printers (not enclosed) and
will require some assembly, proper set up and tuning.
I bought my E3 as a kit and it did need to be assembled (but I knew that going in).
With proper understanding that it is only a machine and doesn't have the slightest idea what it is printing,
it is up to the user to make the best adjustments and measurements to help the printer do the best it can.
.
Both will require a fair amount of "user interface" and intervention and are not "plug and play" machines and they will print PLA fairly well.
.
I can only speak for the printers I have experience using and for keeping the initial cost and clean up time to a minimum.
.
.
.
It's not a perfect print, but for an inexpensive option (in my opinion), the CR10S and ENDER 3 models are a good choice. It can't of course compete against the more expensive choices.
A little sanding and a good paint job, this example will turn out to be a nice cosplay prop.
.
Another example of many, many prints....
.
Good luck on your choices and Happy printing
.
On a side note, be aware however that the Creality CR10S and the ENDER-3 are both open frame printers (not enclosed) and
will require some assembly, proper set up and tuning.
I bought my E3 as a kit and it did need to be assembled (but I knew that going in).
With proper understanding that it is only a machine and doesn't have the slightest idea what it is printing,
it is up to the user to make the best adjustments and measurements to help the printer do the best it can.
.
Both will require a fair amount of "user interface" and intervention and are not "plug and play" machines and they will print PLA fairly well.
.
Last edited:
Quantum Stan
Active Member
My son has the Creality and I'm leaning towards that one for starters because of his knowledge on set up. Price is nice also.
FlowerPower
New Member
I always recommend the Prusa kit for a first printer. You're going to need to know how to fix anything that goes wrong, and it will go wrong, with any printer. It's just the nature of the beast at this stage of development. Building a kit teaches you what every single part does and sets you up for success down the road. I have two (Mk2 and Mk3) and they are great printers.
TazMan2000
Master Member
I would recommend the Creality CR-10 as a starter printer. The larger model the better, If you get an order for several props all at the same time a larger bed may be able to fit more than one prop at a time.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
propmaster2000
Sr Member
adaliah,
Just as a "for instance".
I print many, many props for myself and others and have found that printing one item after another (in series)
takes a lot of time out of the day.
So then, I thought I could set the printer up to print several items at once on the same table, but for me that
opened up other issues I didn't want to contend with.
So, I thought, what if I get a second printer to do half the work in the same amount of time in a day and the ENDER 3
was my choice.
And of course, since the E3 has worked so well for me and the price fit my budget, I bought a second E3 and assembled
that one as well using the same profile as my CR10 and E3.
Now I could have all three of the printers printing at the same time...........but after selling a few of my earlier printed items,
(I never thought I would be saying this), now I have a third E3 to take the extra load and I just finished it's assembly
and currently testing it now with a 3 hour print.
.
.
Just as a "for instance".
I print many, many props for myself and others and have found that printing one item after another (in series)
takes a lot of time out of the day.
So then, I thought I could set the printer up to print several items at once on the same table, but for me that
opened up other issues I didn't want to contend with.
So, I thought, what if I get a second printer to do half the work in the same amount of time in a day and the ENDER 3
was my choice.
And of course, since the E3 has worked so well for me and the price fit my budget, I bought a second E3 and assembled
that one as well using the same profile as my CR10 and E3.
Now I could have all three of the printers printing at the same time...........but after selling a few of my earlier printed items,
(I never thought I would be saying this), now I have a third E3 to take the extra load and I just finished it's assembly
and currently testing it now with a 3 hour print.
.
.
propmaster2000
Sr Member
The first print on my newest E3 turned out really well.
Here is the result. And No stringing!
.
Here is the result.
And No stringing!.
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Noeland
Master Member
I started with a Monoprice Mini for a 3D printer, and it took me a long time to figure out how to use it, as it was my first printer, and it's a quirky machine. As soon as I got it up and running, wires going into the machine under the print bed broke, and effectively killed the darn thing. I will fix them, and hopefully get the machine back up and running. But I decided that it was time to buy a new, bigger machine. I ended up choosing the E3 as well. Looking forward to assembling this sucker! I've become totally hooked on 3D printing! I'm also just printing out a lot of prop weapons!
propmaster2000
Sr Member
Noeland,
Be sure and come back here when the printer arrives.
Pre Set up Note:
Since the Ender 3 involves some added assembly by the user, be aware that when it was partially assembled
at Creality, don't expect that they put a lot of time in any "final set up procedure", so you must check everything,
even what was pre-assembled (just as a precautionary measure).
The wheels must be checked for proper adjustment/tension on all rails so that the stepper motors don't over
work them selves, but still maintain a "smooth action".
The Z axis stepper and lead screw will need extra attention as well for proper set up so it does not bind towards
the lower portion of the lead screw.
Measure everything for proper distance to maintain an accurate horizontal and vertical "parallelness".
.
Be sure and come back here when the printer arrives.
Pre Set up Note:
Since the Ender 3 involves some added assembly by the user, be aware that when it was partially assembled
at Creality, don't expect that they put a lot of time in any "final set up procedure", so you must check everything,
even what was pre-assembled (just as a precautionary measure).
The wheels must be checked for proper adjustment/tension on all rails so that the stepper motors don't over
work them selves, but still maintain a "smooth action".
The Z axis stepper and lead screw will need extra attention as well for proper set up so it does not bind towards
the lower portion of the lead screw.
Measure everything for proper distance to maintain an accurate horizontal and vertical "parallelness".
.
Last edited:
propmaster2000
Sr Member
Raven713
Active Member
That pstol looks great, let meknow if you ever print another one for sale. ThanksAs an example of printing quality for prop weapons, I modeled and printed the Alliance Pistol from the movie Serenity.
I can only speak for the printers I have experience using and for keeping the initial cost and clean up time to a minimum.
.
View attachment 998665
.
View attachment 998666
.
View attachment 998667
It's not a perfect print, but for an inexpensive option (in my opinion), the CR10S and ENDER 3 models are a good choice. It can't of course compete against the more expensive choices.
A little sanding and a good paint job, this example will turn out to be a nice cosplay prop.
.
Another example of many, many prints....
View attachment 998668
.
Good luck on your choices and Happy printing
.
On a side note, be aware however that the Creality CR10S and the ENDER-3 are both open frame printers (not enclosed) and
will require some assembly, proper set up and tuning.
I bought my E3 as a kit and it did need to be assembled (but I knew that going in).
With proper understanding that it is only a machine and doesn't have the slightest idea what it is printing,
it is up to the user to make the best adjustments and measurements to help the printer do the best it can.
.
Both will require a fair amount of "user interface" and intervention and are not "plug and play" machines and they will print PLA fairly well.
.
JiminSTLouis
Sr Member
I’m getting great results with my Ender 3 (not the pro). I was told it can do everything the Prusa can and the price was much less.
propmaster2000
Sr Member
I too think the E3 (standard) does a wonderful printing job when correctly set up and dialed in.
If I have a printing job that will take longer then I have time for that day, I'll split the load on 2 E3's.
.
It is real time saver and both printers print at virtually the same quality.
https://www.therpf.com/forums/attachments/serenity-alliance-pistol-sm-jpg.998666/
If I have a printing job that will take longer then I have time for that day, I'll split the load on 2 E3's.
.
It is real time saver and both printers print at virtually the same quality.
https://www.therpf.com/forums/attachments/serenity-alliance-pistol-sm-jpg.998666/
Last edited:
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