It's a base coat of Rhinox Hide (a dark brown) and then an old GW colour Snakebite Leather dry brushed over the top. There was some brown wash used in between to bring out the depth. You will need to look up what the new equiv to Snakebite Leather is as all the paint names have changed.
I will say that Narin kits are very detailed and if you wreck one an expensive mistake BUT we all gotta start somewhere and you need to have something your passionate about to motivate you to do it. Take it really slow. Treat each piece of the kit like a solo project. This link might help you as it shows the different stages you need to build up through base coat, layers, washes and dry brushing for some GW paint combos:
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/paintChart.jsp?catId=cat820002a&_requestid=247591
Also to make it easier to work on it can help to be able to pull it all apart and stick it back together. I used magnets, a Dremel and some milliput before I started painting. I got the idea of this guy here:
http://youtu.be/XfRclNKCJ-w
and he was nice enough to put it on YouTube so you should watch it. You can always scrub off any paint you don't like with warm water and a scouring pad, re-spray with undercoat and start again if you feel it's gone wrong.
Rather than boldly attacking the model with paint, understand that every texture and surface has a combination of techniques to make it look right. If you google these (I include the word Games Workshop in my search - so - painting fur games workshop - or - painting leather games workshop) you can get detailed step by step guides to which colours to lay down, in which order and with which techniques. If you do this not only does your Narin model benefit but you will remember how to do these same textures again next time. Once you get enough of these 'paint by 5 step' techniques down you start to understand them more and can free form and make your own combos as you will understand what works and what doesn't.
Lastly I will say 'water your paint, but not too much'. Thin paint looks bad but thick paint can be worse. I ended up with a few areas on the head that were too thick due to one of the new GW dry paints that don't work as well as they should.
P.p.s use Kolinsky Sable 00 and 000 brushes. Windsor and Newton make them. If you look after them they last years and will always form a point and provide accuracy.
