N7 Lines with Foam

[AggieChick42]

How are people making those indented lines so very neat on their Foam N7 armor? That can't possibly be from a dremmel unless they are just that damn talented... nothing on the inter-webs says ANYTHING about how people are doing that.... :confused

 

[Sakara]

I know some people use a wood burner tool or hot knife attachment to score lines into the foam.

 

[AggieChick42]

Hmm... i've just noticed that the lines are CRAZY straight.... I am curious how the manage this... mainly on the fem-shep chest plates because all the curves up top lmao

 

[Jaedena]

I drew mine on with a sharpie before painting and used a wood burning tool to make the groove.

 

[AggieChick42]

I drew mine on with a sharpie before painting and used a wood burning tool to make the groove.

Ahhhh that makes better sense... I just don't have very steady hands anymore (thank you military) so it's hard for me to make straight lines

 

[KTH]

I am also interested in learning the different methods used to make details lines on foam that look nice and neat.

What sort of woodburning tools and bits? Is there any specific technique that is used to keep it from burning unevenly? Any brand you recommend?

What sort of dremel tips are you using if any?

I would be so thankful for any information, tips and tools used. I have been looking all around for information about how to make detail lines in foam. So far, I have had poor results in my attempts.

 

[P4r4dox86]

I've heard of people using soldering irons to burn into foam. Never done it myself so I'm not sure how well it would work, but I'd think it would be basically the same as a wood burning tool.

 

[Berserk]

Wood burning kit and a metal ruler.

 

[Shades]

Wood burning kit and a metal ruler.

Yep.

Plus smooth pulling of the tool.

 

[Talisen]

Exactly, burner and ruler, it's takes some practice, I found it worked best to do it in multiple passes. Too slow and it starts melting in spurts (depending on how smooth your movement is, but any stopping and it makes a larger hole)

For some parts I used a dremel with router attachment and a piece of wood (in place of the ruler)

All this should be done BEFORE you start heating and bending of course!

 

[markkNL]

For straight lines, maybe you could heat up an iron bar and then push it into the foam. I never worked with foam so I dont know if it works, but it might me an idea to try since it will be much easier (if it works) than using a burner and having to cut along the line, since it would be done in 1 push. Might also work for curved lines if you curve the iron bar.

 

[Berserk]

Also, a nice bit of fine grit sandpaper after the wood burning tool takes off the small bits of melted foam and gives a really nice smooth edge

 

[AggieChick42]

Yep.

Plus smooth pulling of the tool.

Would you do this before or after molding the chest piece on the fem-shep armor?

 

[Jaedena]

I did mine after. I made the ab plate first, then moulded the chest plate, then lined everything up and drew on the lines with a sharpie.

 

[AggieChick42]

Hmm.. I figured that we be the smarter choice lmao but you never know sometimes with this kind of stuff!

 

[familyman]

I score the lines in my foam builds with a bic pen.

 

[AggieChick42]

Wow that's really good...

Has anyone tried making a Fem-Shep chest piece like this guy did?? Mass Effect Armor. I'm Commander Shepard and this is my favorite thread on the 405th.

 

[bhodie]

Is that R2 body made from foam?

I score the lines in my foam builds with a bic pen.

 

[KTH]

my heat tool, the "woodburning tool" is such a spaz! Maybe it is the brand? Because whenever I first place the tip onto the foam it spazzes and creates a big melty spot then becomes normal once I start drawing the line. Like it's too hot or something. In order for it not to do that big melty spot I have to be going at a speed that is not conducive to fine craftsmanship. Also, when ever I pause for even the slightest 1/3 second it makes another melty spot.

How to line? someone please help.

 

[Christopher]

Just thought I'd chime in with some photos. Unfortunately I too am having troubles with my heat tool.

As you can see I'm having the melt spot problem too. I'm just using a bottom of the line souldering iron (the proper tools are pretty hard to come by in Australia). I'm not sure if it's too hot or too cool, but it's not right for sure. I've also tried sanding it, but only with 120grit paper and me thinks I need to use a much finer grit based off results.

I've had much better results so far using a Dremel with a thin disk bit

It's still not perfect, but it's lookin substantially better for the test bits. I'm not sure how that method is going to go when it comes to corners though. Also it's a pretty hit and miss method, I'm not looking forward to trying it on the bigger, more material costly pieces.

Sorry I don't have any substantial answers though. Like a lot of people here it's my first time, and I'm finding experimentation is really helpful

P.S on a completely unrelated note, I also just found out from playing around that if you hit a coiled bit of el wire with the heat gun for a little bit, it straightens out nicely!... Which is pretty obvious now that I think about it :facepalm