My Take on the TOS 1/350 Enterprise (let the heresy begin)

sithman66

Well-Known Member
Thanks to Jeff's Build of his Movie Enterprise; http://www.therpf.com/f11/jeffs-1-350-refit-enterprise-97477/

I have decided that I can actually still build models ( haven't completed one in many years but was decent at it once) and seeing as I have everything I need to build it the way I want it and not necessarily sticking to the screen accurate model nor the dark greys of the studio model.

I have decided that since real spacecraft of the day were white that it was to intention of it being white, and I saw this series on black and white TV so for me I remember it as white. However I may still use a little bit of grey if the white looks too garish!

I just ordered all the electronics supplies I need and then some from : http://www.taydaelectronics.com

I got all this:
Item
Sku
Qty
LED 3mm White Water Clear Ultra Bright
A-2226
20
LED 3mm Green Water Clear Super Bright
A-064
20
LED 3mm Red Water Clear Ultra Bright
A-705
20
NE555 IC 555 Timer DIP-8
A-249
10
CD4026 4026 IC CMOS Counters Decade/Divider
A-493
5
180 OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2061
10
1K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2123
30
0.22uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm
A-4512
11
1uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm
A-4505
6
LED 5mm Blue Water Clear Ultra Bright
A-407
40
2K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2079
10
160 OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2060
10
220uF 10V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm
A-4506
5
LED 3mm Orange
A-264
15
330 OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2067
10
CD4040BE CD4040 4040 Ripple-Carry Binary Counter/Divider IC
A-011
14
PN3565 (BJT) NPN General Purpose Transistor
A-872
10
10K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mm
A-2514
10
10K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2115
10
47K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
A-2066
10
CD4060BE CD4060 4060 RIPPLE CARRY BINARY COUNTER IC
A-021
5
LED 3mm Red
A-261
40
LED 3mm Green
A-262
20
LED 3mm Yellow
A-263
20


For under 20 bucks!
Just wanted to share that with you guys I thought it was quite reasonable.

I will post some pictures tonight, althought I am only at the stage of sanding and filling the nacelle seams.

So let the heresy begin!
 

Albertese

Well-Known Member
I'm curious what changes you have in mind. I'm all for white, and I must admit that my first several takes on the E were also white. But as far as creative intent, goes, Gene Roddenberry has been quoted as wanting the ship to be the color of a WWII battleship. So gray. But, yeah, I too watched plenty of these episodes on a little black and white set, so I totally get the impulse to go white.

I'm a caveman as far as electronics go, but with that big list, I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with this one!

--Alex
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
Thanks Alex, I never heard that! I always just assumed it was grey because under studio lighting white would be too bright and so they opted for grey in an effort to look white, also because the motion picture one was essentially white as well.
Well we will see how the white looks, like I said I still may "grey it up" a bit.

I'm a caveman too but I have found several on line resources that will fit what I want to do nicely and Simple and thank to a member here also the 58RPM motors for the collectors.

Tom
 

Randy13

Well-Known Member
I'm looking forward to your build. Also, thanks for sharing that link to the electronics site. They have some great prices.
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
first pic.jpgSo here's the plan, I figured I would start with the interior. The shuttle will go in last pending my final colour choice for the exterioras they should obviously match. I was going to cast these in clear so the little control room windows would be lit but decided it wasn't worth it and will leave these windows dark as the doors are supposed to be closed anyway and just open so you can see inside and there would not be anyone in them unless you are launchinchin a shuttle anyway.

I've got the Paragrafix PE set so I decided to cut out the windows and then use the PE for the frames. I also decided to cut out the alcoves around the bay and will file them all and add styrene walls. Also I plan on putting the USS Enterprise decal on the wall above the door rather than on it so I can have the door partially open and add some detail behind it.
For the ceiling I am just going to cut out the lighted portion again using the PE frames and replace it with clear or white, whatever looks better.

Finally up for this weekend I am going to cast the bridge in clear resin and start that as well

will post pictures as I go.

Thomas
 

Teddyboy16

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice electronics site. I just bookmarked it and subscribed to this thread. Im looking forward to your seeing the progress in your build.

While many of the conversations about accuracy to the actual filming model are interesting, I sometimes think I'm in a echo chamber:). I actually like to see models from builders that have gotten a little creative. It's a great hobby, and above all else it's to be enjoyed. I'm sure your model will look gorgeous once it's finished and properly displayed.
 
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sithman66

Well-Known Member
20150307_214302.jpg20150307_214724.jpg

Well, since I am too cheap to buy the lighting set I bought clear casting resin and rubber from A C Moore to cast the bridge in clear resin.

Here is the bridge sitting on plasticine and a shot with the first coat applied by brush so that there will be no air bubbles in the mold. I will apply 3 layers and then pour the rest of the mold.
 
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division 6

Master Member
Until I saw the old girl at the Smithsonian I thought she was white, so all me models and SFB mini's where white.
Looking forward to your build.
 

Avolow

Active Member
Looks like your list of parts is pretty complete too. :) You posted on my build so I thought I would check out yours. :thumbsup I don't think it was here when I was looking through the different builds.

I have another video posted of the bussard collectors with the lights in them if you look on my thread.

Definitely want to see how your cast of the bridge comes out! I wouldn't mind doing that right either, but like you, not going to spend the money for the light kit. :lol

Cant wait to see how yours comes out too. :thumbsup

Avolow.
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
Yeah I just saw that video and I agree that if I can't make the motors silent I too will go that route! it looks pretty good actually!

I became impatient with painting on the silicone and now I am forced to wait for it to dry because I applied it in one thick coat!20150308_181923.jpg20150310_190527.jpg
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
Well, I finally de molded the bridge!
I had to wait so long because the mold didn't look dry in one half but I could wait no longer! luckily enough it seems to have worked and I have poured the resin which just as the name implies is crystal clear. I will take that out of the mold tonigh and post a picture of the results tomorrow.20150408_202937.jpg20150408_203019.jpg

Also, I have finally found the perfect rattle-can paint (for me) at Lowe's home store, it's a blue/grey off white that is just what I was looking for.
 

Avolow

Active Member
I'm waiting to see how this part turns out. :D

Are you thinking about molding any of the other parts in clear also?

Avolow.
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
I still haven't decided, I wasn't going to do the warp grilles on the nacelles because in the show you never saw the blue engine lights but it would be easy enough to do and could be turned off so I might do those parts.
Still up in the air but may also do the hangerbay walls the thiing there is it is a lot of work and all you would gain over opening the windows up would be the little control rooms on the ends of the bay so doesn't really seem worth it to me.

Still no success on lighting though but I'll keep trying until something works there.

Thomas
 

sithman66

Well-Known Member
Well, after carefully working the bridge out of the mould because I didn't want to risk a mould release agent reacting with the resin I have my first clear bridge!
it was still somewhat soft and I had to work it by hand to retain it's shape but it has since hardened nicely!
as you can see though, the problem is the chairs did not come out eventhough I pushed resin into them with an old 000 brush!
Also there is a large circular void where the torbolift doors are.
I could just fill this hole but not sure if I should just remake new chairs or try a second moulding?
20150409_195406.jpg20150409_195427.jpg
 
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