My Studio Scale Probe Droid
- Thread starter EchoLeader
- Start date
Tatooine_Todd
Sr Member
One of my all-time favorite models from the OT. Yours is absolutely fantastic.
DL 44 Blaster
Sr Member
Oh that is just absolutely SICK.... Call me green 
with envy....I LOVE IT
Steve
with envy....I LOVE IT Steve
EchoLeader
Sr Member
Painting the Probe Droid Tutorial:
Ok, before I started painting my Droid I wanted to get it as close to the filming miniature as possible. Depending on the lighting that the original model was photographed in the color ranges from almost black to a gray and even to an olive bronze color.
Upon looking at my reference I decided that a dark olive bronze was the way to go.
HereÂ’s my approach to how I painted my Droid once the sub-assemblies were built. I first washed all parts with a mild detergent to remove any mould release that may be coating parts. I then used a sand able automotive primer and spayed all parts with a good coat so the paint had something to adhere to. After the primer had dried I then gave everything a coat of flat black, I used Rust-Oleum Flat Protective Enamel #7776. I then airbrushed Testors Model Masters Burnt Metal Buffing Metalizer on the entire model. This is key to give it that metallic look under all the washes that will come next.
I use a technique of using two different mediums as to not react to each other. I use alternating washes between Acrylics and Oils. I custom mix my acrylic colors using Liqutex Acrylic Artist paints in tube form, I use the more expensive high quality type, stay away from their Basics line. I dilute the paint with a thinner I custom mix also. The thinner I make is a mixture of 50/50 water and alcohol with a dash of Windex for viscosity. The colors I used to mix my colors were black, raw umber and burnt umber. I mixed different shades in plastic cups. The oil paints I use are Winsor & Newton artist oil paints. I dilute these using order less Terpernoid, remember that a little oil paint goes a long way. The colors I used were black, burnt Umber and cadmium orange. I mixed different shades in plastic cups.
Believe it or not after I airbushed the Burnt Metal I didnÂ’t use my airbrush again. You will need to get quality round and flat brushes though. Get some variety packs that bring different sizes. I then brush on washes alternating between acrylics and oils always referring to my reference photos as a guide. Using washes will allow the metalizer color to show through and thus gives the model a metallic look under all those washes. Once everything is dry I then use a flat brush and dry brush black oil paint on the entire model just enough for the raised details to pick up the black. Note the the brush has to be very dry with the oil paint, less is more in this case.
The eyes were simply sprayed on directly from a spray can after masking. I used Rust-Oleum Gloss Protective Enamel, Gloss Black # 7779.
I then scraped areas with a tool and let the raw metal color show through and lifted up any residue with masking tape to simulate scrapes.
So there you pretty much have it on how I painted my Droid.
Ok, before I started painting my Droid I wanted to get it as close to the filming miniature as possible. Depending on the lighting that the original model was photographed in the color ranges from almost black to a gray and even to an olive bronze color.
Upon looking at my reference I decided that a dark olive bronze was the way to go.
HereÂ’s my approach to how I painted my Droid once the sub-assemblies were built. I first washed all parts with a mild detergent to remove any mould release that may be coating parts. I then used a sand able automotive primer and spayed all parts with a good coat so the paint had something to adhere to. After the primer had dried I then gave everything a coat of flat black, I used Rust-Oleum Flat Protective Enamel #7776. I then airbrushed Testors Model Masters Burnt Metal Buffing Metalizer on the entire model. This is key to give it that metallic look under all the washes that will come next.
I use a technique of using two different mediums as to not react to each other. I use alternating washes between Acrylics and Oils. I custom mix my acrylic colors using Liqutex Acrylic Artist paints in tube form, I use the more expensive high quality type, stay away from their Basics line. I dilute the paint with a thinner I custom mix also. The thinner I make is a mixture of 50/50 water and alcohol with a dash of Windex for viscosity. The colors I used to mix my colors were black, raw umber and burnt umber. I mixed different shades in plastic cups. The oil paints I use are Winsor & Newton artist oil paints. I dilute these using order less Terpernoid, remember that a little oil paint goes a long way. The colors I used were black, burnt Umber and cadmium orange. I mixed different shades in plastic cups.
Believe it or not after I airbushed the Burnt Metal I didnÂ’t use my airbrush again. You will need to get quality round and flat brushes though. Get some variety packs that bring different sizes. I then brush on washes alternating between acrylics and oils always referring to my reference photos as a guide. Using washes will allow the metalizer color to show through and thus gives the model a metallic look under all those washes. Once everything is dry I then use a flat brush and dry brush black oil paint on the entire model just enough for the raised details to pick up the black. Note the the brush has to be very dry with the oil paint, less is more in this case.
The eyes were simply sprayed on directly from a spray can after masking. I used Rust-Oleum Gloss Protective Enamel, Gloss Black # 7779.
I then scraped areas with a tool and let the raw metal color show through and lifted up any residue with masking tape to simulate scrapes.
So there you pretty much have it on how I painted my Droid.
EchoLeader
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(RKW @ Oct 2 2006, 12:02 AM) [snapback]1330149[/snapback]</div>
I actually use the two different mediums as to not react to each other. By alternating the mediums, they create barriers like protective coats. The oils that I use are as a wash so they're the consistency of water and very translucent. Oils are great for weathering effects.
I actually use the two different mediums as to not react to each other. By alternating the mediums, they create barriers like protective coats. The oils that I use are as a wash so they're the consistency of water and very translucent. Oils are great for weathering effects.
MattMunson
Master Member
Truly amazing. great work. Makes me want to go to the studio scale forum more often.
Darth Kahnt
Sr Member
Very nicely done.
DL 44 Blaster
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>(blufive @ Oct 1 2006, 09:09 PM) [snapback]1330184[/snapback]</div>
I still have mine. I could never figure why they didn't make a Probe Droid beyond that set.
Steve
Wow. That is beautiful.
On a mildly related note, one of my favorite SW toys was the JC Penny exclusive Turret & Probot playset. The Probe Droid will always be special to me.
[/b]
I still have mine. I could never figure why they didn't make a Probe Droid beyond that set.
Steve
