EchoLeader
Sr Member
Well, finally got around to painting this thing. Here are some pics, thanks Wacky.
My Studio Scale Probe Droid
- Thread starter EchoLeader
- Start date
streetjudge79
Master Member
Awesome job Rolando. Hey are you going to the model competition next Saturday up in Ft. Lauderdale? If you want to meet up, give me a shout. You should bring that baby up there. I guarantee that's a winner.
Steve
Steve
EchoLeader
Sr Member
Steve, I'll be there with my little buddy in tow. Hope to see you there.
streetjudge79
Master Member
Very cool Rolando, It's been a long time buddy. I'll definitely be there. I may be bringing a few pieces up myself.
I know what you mean Lee. It's beautiful. But the truth is it's really just too damn big for a guy who lives in a very small appartment like me. And I'll never be able to buy a house if I keep buying this stuff either.
I HATE reality. I wish I could make $100,000 a year as a modelmaker.
I HATE reality. I wish I could make $100,000 a year as a modelmaker.
EchoLeader
Sr Member
Lee, I actually use very little pastels. What pastels I used were on some of the legs.
I use a process of doing alternating washes using customized colors mixed by myself. The paints I use are Liquetex Arylic Artist Paints and Winsor Newton Oil Paints.
If anyone is interested I can post a more detail tutorial as how I painted my Droid.
I use a process of doing alternating washes using customized colors mixed by myself. The paints I use are Liquetex Arylic Artist Paints and Winsor Newton Oil Paints.
If anyone is interested I can post a more detail tutorial as how I painted my Droid.
I know what you mean Coby, reality sucks lol, so do my bills. Rolando id love to see what techniques you used, the effect of wear and rust/oxidising in the panel edges is beautiful, the paints sound interesting too. Ahh well theres much more to look forward to from you and Steve in the future, ill have to admire this baby on here 
lee
lee
STEVE THE SWEDE
Sr Member
Awesome Rolando, a true insperation. I just love the way you worked with the washes. A tutorial would be really interesting, please post it. It looks like there's some graphite powder rubbed on too or is it just my eyes playing tricks.? Oh, BTW how did you approach the gloss black eyes.? They look like they could be rather tricky to mask? I was actually planning to paint them first then mask them off and paint the hull.
Once again, fantastic model.
Steve.
It looks like there's some graphite powder rubbed on too or is it just my eyes playing tricks.? Oh, BTW how did you approach the gloss black eyes.? They look like they could be rather tricky to mask? I was actually planning to paint them first then mask them off and paint the hull.Once again, fantastic model.
Steve.
EchoLeader
Sr Member
Painting the Probe Droid Tutorial:
Ok, before I started painting my Droid I wanted to get it as close to the filming miniature as possible. Depending on the lighting that the original model was photographed in the color ranges from almost black to a gray and even to an olive bronze color.
Upon looking at my reference I decided that a dark olive bronze was the way to go.
HereÂ’s my approach to how I painted my Droid once the sub-assemblies were built. I first washed all parts with a mild detergent to remove any mould release that may be coating parts. I then used a sand able automotive primer and spayed all parts with a good coat so the paint had something to adhere to. After the primer had dried I then gave everything a coat of flat black, I used Rust-Oleum Flat Protective Enamel #7776. I then airbrushed Testors Model Masters Burnt Metal Buffing Metalizer on the entire model. This is key to give it that metallic look under all the washes that will come next.
I use a technique of using two different mediums as to not react to each other. I use alternating washes between Acrylics and Oils. I custom mix my acrylic colors using Liqutex Acrylic Artist paints in tube form, I use the more expensive high quality type, stay away from their Basics line. I dilute the paint with a thinner I custom mix also. The thinner I make is a mixture of 50/50 water and alcohol with a dash of Windex for viscosity. The colors I used to mix my colors were black, raw umber and burnt umber. I mixed different shades in plastic cups. The oil paints I use are Winsor & Newton artist oil paints. I dilute these using order less Terpernoid, remember that a little oil paint goes a long way. The colors I used were black, burnt Umber and cadmium orange. I mixed different shades in plastic cups.
Believe it or not after I airbushed the Burnt Metal I didnÂ’t use my airbrush again. You will need to get quality round and flat brushes though. Get some variety packs that bring different sizes. I then brush on washes alternating between acrylics and oils always referring to my reference photos as a guide. Using washes will allow the metalizer color to show through and thus gives the model a metallic look under all those washes. Once everything is dry I then use a flat brush and dry brush black oil paint on the entire model just enough for the raised details to pick up the black. Note the the brush has to be very dry with the oil paint, less is more in this case.
The eyes were simply sprayed on directly from a spray can after masking. I used Rust-Oleum Gloss Protective Enamel, Gloss Black # 7779.
I then scraped areas with a tool and let the raw metal color show through and lifted up any residue with masking tape to simulate scrapes.
So there you pretty much have it on how I painted my Droid.
Ok, before I started painting my Droid I wanted to get it as close to the filming miniature as possible. Depending on the lighting that the original model was photographed in the color ranges from almost black to a gray and even to an olive bronze color.
Upon looking at my reference I decided that a dark olive bronze was the way to go.
HereÂ’s my approach to how I painted my Droid once the sub-assemblies were built. I first washed all parts with a mild detergent to remove any mould release that may be coating parts. I then used a sand able automotive primer and spayed all parts with a good coat so the paint had something to adhere to. After the primer had dried I then gave everything a coat of flat black, I used Rust-Oleum Flat Protective Enamel #7776. I then airbrushed Testors Model Masters Burnt Metal Buffing Metalizer on the entire model. This is key to give it that metallic look under all the washes that will come next.
I use a technique of using two different mediums as to not react to each other. I use alternating washes between Acrylics and Oils. I custom mix my acrylic colors using Liqutex Acrylic Artist paints in tube form, I use the more expensive high quality type, stay away from their Basics line. I dilute the paint with a thinner I custom mix also. The thinner I make is a mixture of 50/50 water and alcohol with a dash of Windex for viscosity. The colors I used to mix my colors were black, raw umber and burnt umber. I mixed different shades in plastic cups. The oil paints I use are Winsor & Newton artist oil paints. I dilute these using order less Terpernoid, remember that a little oil paint goes a long way. The colors I used were black, burnt Umber and cadmium orange. I mixed different shades in plastic cups.
Believe it or not after I airbushed the Burnt Metal I didnÂ’t use my airbrush again. You will need to get quality round and flat brushes though. Get some variety packs that bring different sizes. I then brush on washes alternating between acrylics and oils always referring to my reference photos as a guide. Using washes will allow the metalizer color to show through and thus gives the model a metallic look under all those washes. Once everything is dry I then use a flat brush and dry brush black oil paint on the entire model just enough for the raised details to pick up the black. Note the the brush has to be very dry with the oil paint, less is more in this case.
The eyes were simply sprayed on directly from a spray can after masking. I used Rust-Oleum Gloss Protective Enamel, Gloss Black # 7779.
I then scraped areas with a tool and let the raw metal color show through and lifted up any residue with masking tape to simulate scrapes.
So there you pretty much have it on how I painted my Droid.
That's my man. Out of the park my friend... out of the friggin park.
Steve
Steve
Lupus Yonderboy
Well-Known Member
Absolutely fantastic Rolando.
Thanks for sharing and your part in making this possible for the rest of us
Cheers,
Pontus
Thanks for sharing and your part in making this possible for the rest of us
Cheers,
Pontus
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Amazing work .
*takes notes*
*takes notes*
Gort
Well-Known Member
Hey Rolando, that's really outstanding work. :eek That's got to be one of the nicest, most subtle paintjobs I've seen for a long time. I reckon the ILM guys like Charlie Bailey who built the original would be amazed at what you have pulled off with this model.
Geez, for guys like me with projects in the works you sure are setting the bar high :cry
All praise Rolando....
Geez, for guys like me with projects in the works you sure are setting the bar high :cry
All praise Rolando....
EchoLeader
Sr Member
Thanks for the praise guys, it's very much appreciated. Hopefully my buildup will inspire others who got this kit and have been working on theirs to show off what they're doing. If you haven't started on your kit I hope this will give you ideas. I'd love to see what others have done so start posting guys.
