My PKD Bladerunner pistol build.

Disassembled the resin blaster and began working on the parts to continue prepping them for more priming and painting. Also did more work on polishing the grips and getting them to better hug the grip frame. I initially planned to fill the grip texture with polishing compound (as the originals appear to have) but may end up painting them, instead. Suggestions are appreciated.

I also took one of the nylon fillister screws I’d previously acquired and filed off the threading, working it down to a post the same size and length as the Weaver knob in Anders’ resin kit. This way, the screw and the knob can easily be swapped out. Although the friction fit is good (even before paint), I wonder if I should use magnets or perhaps small screw threads to make them more secure when installed.


There were two reasons my build had stalled out:

1. The electronics for the clip were giving me trouble. Even after soldering and then resoldering the LEDs, they worked inconsistently, and then not at all. I have a new electronics kit on the way which looks like a better solution than the rat’s nest of wires in the stock kit.

2. The kit’s clip does not include the half-moon indentations beneath each of the two cylindrical LED bezels on each side. I tried to add them in with a Dremel, but it was too tricky to get a clean result with the bezels in the way.

So, I 3D modeled exact replicas of the bezels after taking measurements, and am having them 3D-printed. I can then Dremel away the stock bezels, get the indentations just right, then install the replacement bezels.
 
Having acquired a pewter sight rod from Tip Top (which will replace the warped resin one),I drilled the appropriate holes into it to accomodate brass alignment pins (for attachment to the cylinder cover), as well as for the green LEDs.
 
I’ve continued working on the parts to prepare them for paint. Sprayed the cylinder cover and clip holder parts with a black primer. After a few more rounds of sanding, they can get their gloss black coat.

Meanwhile, the electronics assembly arrived from the UK. And the 3D-printed replacement parts for the LED bezels should be arriving, tomorrow.
 
Received the printed parts. Drilled the existing LED bezels out of the stock clip part, which gave me the space to drill the missing half-round divots which sit beneath the bezels. After I glue in the new, printed bezels (which got a light filing to ensure that the LEDs will fit inside them), everything can be puttied, sanded, and primed.
 
Been puttying/sanding/priming. Getting close to black-priming the clip, then giving the black parts their proper gloss black coat. After that, I can install the electronics.
 
I recently received my kit from tip top and have been reading through this whole thread. Just wanna thank everyone for the info, it's been very helpful already!
Not the most experienced with this type of thing but the initial dry fit was very easy and looked great! Felt sad taking it apart again haha
Lots of sanding and re fits to before painting.
Photo is from the dry fit I done as soon as it arrived.
I some how missed a screw on the clip next to the weaver bolt (which I will likely change for a slotted screw at some point). I'm guessing it's just a standard m3 hex screw?
 

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I recently received my kit from tip top and have been reading through this whole thread. Just wanna thank everyone for the info, it's been very helpful already!
Not the most experienced with this type of thing but the initial dry fit was very easy and looked great! Felt sad taking it apart again haha
Lots of sanding and re fits to before painting.
Photo is from the dry fit I done as soon as it arrived.
I some how missed a screw on the clip next to the weaver bolt (which I will likely change for a slotted screw at some point). I'm guessing it's just a standard m3 hex screw?

Looking great! The 'missing' screw is indeed an M3 hex - from memory I think it's a 12mm.
 
My own build hit a snag--I wanted to tap the cylinder cover to as to allow the Weaver knob and the 1982 screw to be easily swapped out for each other (Anders' stock resin knob is designed to be glued in)...but the resin cracked and blew out when I tapped it.

So, I repaired the part with JB Weld and Apoxie Sculpt, then devised a new solution:

I chopped off the threads on the cast pewter Weaver knob and the fillister screw, replaced them with magnets, then installed a small magnet into the cylinder cover.

So now the parts easily swap out magnetically instead of mechanically, which removes any stress on the (relatively) fragile resin part.

Photos once I get everything re-primed and painted.
 
After another few rounds of filling/sanding/priming, I gave the cylinder cover a shot of flat black primer to prepare it for the glossy black coat.

Here’s the current state of things. The (as yet unpainted) pewter Weaver knob/binding post and the nylon fillister screw have magnets JB Welded on their bottoms. The hole that the binding post fits into has a fairly tight tolerance so as to also allow for a friction fit to help keep it in place. There’s really no need for it to be held on magnetically, rather than being glued in place, but I think it might be useful to keep it removable to aid in repainting, if that’s ever required.

The Weaver knob and/or the screw snap right into position when placed near the other magnet embedded in the cylinder cover, and can easily be swiveled around to adjust their clocking. Works great.



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Gave the ammo clip a coat of flat black primer, now that the new LED bezels are blended in. Once the black parts are painted with a gloss black coat, I can solder and install the electronics.

Still need to prime the binding post and the fillister screw. Then some more prep work before pairing the bulldog frame and the other metallic parts. Still thinking about how best to simulate the scratched-off paint on the bottom of the grip.

I also put everything back together to get a sense of how it looks, and to nail down any fit issues or other problems.

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What fillister screw are people using? I'm looking to use one instead of the provided weaver knob. Going for as screen accurate as possible.
Can someone also please explain how to do the hammer? I have the metal hammer, but how long is the rod and how does it attach to handle? Any help appreciated.

I'm on the boring sanding stage currently. Very easy material to work with so far. I've gotten most of the lines out. On 1000 grit currently. What grit has everyone gone to before painting ?
 
What fillister screw are people using? I'm looking to use one instead of the provided weaver knob. Going for as screen accurate as possible.
Can someone also please explain how to do the hammer? I have the metal hammer, but how long is the rod and how does it attach to handle? Any help appreciated.

I'm on the boring sanding stage currently. Very easy material to work with so far. I've gotten most of the lines out. On 1000 grit currently. What grit has everyone gone to before painting ?
I've read on another page of this thread, page 4, 1/4" - 20 seems to "fit" the bill...
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What fillister screw are people using? I'm looking to use one instead of the provided weaver knob. Going for as screen accurate as possible.
Can someone also please explain how to do the hammer? I have the metal hammer, but how long is the rod and how does it attach to handle? Any help appreciated.

I'm on the boring sanding stage currently. Very easy material to work with so far. I've gotten most of the lines out. On 1000 grit currently. What grit has everyone gone to before painting ?

I settled on a 10/32 x 1/4” nylon binder slotted head screw.

And I acquired a real Bulldog rod (which is about 49mm long) and mainspring to install, but I’m just going to friction-fit or glue it in place against the hammer. I also cut the spring down so there wouldn’t be actual spring tension against the resin Bulldog frame (which I modified to accommodate the small metal plate that the rod and spring sit upon).

And I think I went up to 2000 grit or so before applying high-build, automotive FILLER primer, which really helps with the print lines. Although I made sure to mask the Steyr stamping and whatnot so it wouldn’t be filled in by the primer, too.
 
I settled on a 10/32 x 1/4” nylon binder slotted head screw.

And I acquired a real Bulldog rod (which is about 49mm long) and mainspring to install, but I’m just going to friction-fit or glue it in place against the hammer. I also cut the spring down so there wouldn’t be actual spring tension against the resin Bulldog frame (which I modified to accommodate the small metal plate that the rod and spring sit upon).

And I think I went up to 2000 grit or so before applying high-build, automotive FILLER primer, which really helps with the print lines. Although I made sure to mask the Steyr stamping and whatnot so it wouldn’t be filled in by the primer, too.
Lovely, thanks.

Yeah I'm not overly bothered about functionality. Just trying to get it to look the part. Thanks for the info!

Did you also sand the inner handle frame?
So far I've been sanding everything but you are not going to see a lot of it once put together so thinking about focusing mainly on the bits that are visible when assembled. And of course any areas that need to fit together smoothly.
 
Lovely, thanks.

Yeah I'm not overly bothered about functionality. Just trying to get it to look the part. Thanks for the info!

Did you also sand the inner handle frame?
So far I've been sanding everything but you are not going to see a lot of it once put together so thinking about focusing mainly on the bits that are visible when assembled. And of course any areas that need to fit together smoothly.

I’ve sanded and primed everything, yes.
 
…well, I bit the bullet, and picked up a Tomenosuke. It’s been interesting to compare it to my in-progress Anders build.

As it stands, I’ve been working on painting the cylinder cover parts and the sight. Once that’s all good, I can install the electronics, then focus on finishing and painting the other parts.

But it now looks like my Anders build is just a warmup for the main event: tearing down and accurizing the Tomenosuke.

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