My P2 Hero

They do use it in the industry but they're only interested in it lasting long enough for the shots they need. A guy at SWS said seal it then alclad over the sealer.

The only other alternative to real metal FX i've found in the UK is a company called 'krackin 2K cans' or somethin, basically real chrome in a can, aimed at the automotive market, but its so expensive as to not be worth bothering with.
 
Alclad recommends not sealing it from the info I gathered.  Not sure if there's a special clear to finish it, but my buddy who uses it say's everything he tried killed the final outcome.  Seems to me that the industry is rarely looking for a clean, shiny surface, so I guess a 'less than perfect' finish is okay (and desired).  I'm planning a trip to Paul's studio and will grill him on what the industry uses (he has a screen used T-800 that he worked on so I'm sure he has some answers).

Brian 
 
I know they originally chrome plated the T-800 but they opted for Alclad on later films because of the expense. Got that from the horses mouth. Yea when I sealed my cold cast P2 it looked like a paint job after. Kind of defeats the point. But I'm only interested in display pieces anyway.
 
There's a little trick they did by clear coating the the first coat of alclad and then going back over the clear with alclad.  Mainly just a preventative in case the outer coat rubbed off though.  The only other thing I'm seeing is coating it with future but it seems fairly labor intensive.  Most use upwards of six coats with buffing in between to get a glassy metallic finish.  Not exactly what you'd want for a bio but it's another option I guess.
 
A Hunter's Moon said:
There's a little trick they did by clear coating the the first coat of alclad and then going back over the clear with alclad.  Mainly just a preventative in case the outer coat rubbed off though.  The only other thing I'm seeing is coating it with future but it seems fairly labor intensive.  Most use upwards of six coats with buffing in between to get a glassy metallic finish.  Not exactly what you'd want for a bio but it's another option I guess.
Same info I found Tom.  I watched a few different videos where guys base coated with different colors to try and get different effects, but none came out as they had hoped.  As for me, I'll be sticking with the Rub-N-Buff when the need for anything metallic comes up.  It's not super durable either, but looks much more realistic than silver paint, and can handle a little wear.  Best part is how easy it is to use, and how quickly you get results.

Brian
 
Anyone in the UK with a snow wolf aliens pulse rifle want to trade?
My P2 + cash for your pulse rifle. Or get one for me. I want a green and black one.

Keith.
 

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