I have changed the cabling to even shorter and it still does itAnother quick question for that ethernet connection from the gyro to the backpack. Did you notice any weird issues? I noticed that it lasts for 30 seconds information from the gyro and then it quits and then I have to keep resetting the Arduino. But it works indefinitely when it's a solid wire
Change to a better ethernet cable. You can not use a cheapy ethernet, it needs to be a good quality cable. That issue indicates a conductor issue and inability to carry the needed current.Another quick question for that ethernet connection from the gyro to the backpack. Did you notice any weird issues? I noticed that it lasts for 30 seconds information from the gyro and then it quits and then I have to keep resetting the Arduino. But it works indefinitely when it's a solid wire
I still can't get it! It works for 10 to 15 seconds and then it stops and I have to reset it. I have tried different cables cat 5e , cat 6, different lengths.Change to a better ethernet cable. You can not use a cheapy ethernet, it needs to be a good quality cable. That issue indicates a conductor issue and inability to carry the needed current.
superglue with an accelerant works just as well. gluing with the pieces is an easier way to line things up.Hello everyone!
Do you know how Moe is combining pieces together?
For instance, shins, it seems he’s using welding machine for plastic similar to this one
I’m using bicomponent glue but I’m wondering if he’s welding with that as well!
Thank you!
I still can't get it the stuff you talk about seems like it's a little out of my league. I wonder if my wire gauge is too thin? I'm using 22 gauge. Is that what's recommended?try it without using the ethernet balun adapters and see what the behavior is. If there is no issue then I would start toning out the pins and make sure that there is not excessive noise bleeding over from one pair to another. (indications of a bad solder joint.) Also bear in mind that you may need to change what pins do what as the wiring is specifically designed to minimize noise and you will want to reference POE (Power over EThernet) applications to ensure the power is separated from the communications with minimal crosstalk including near end crosstalk (NEXT) and far end cross talk (FEXT.)
Also ensure all your wiring is correct and you do not have something reversed. I have run into cases where servos pick up enough noise on the control line that they will top working reliably after some time. I ran into that personally with a high torque/high power servo next to a lower torque servo throwing enough noise to make the lower torque unit stop working after a period of time. The solution? poor mans mumetal. wrap both harnesses the entire length in aluminum foil covered with electrical tape for a cheap and easy EM shield.
The other thing to try is to make your own custom cable harness and see if that works better.
I use stuff like this a lot as it makes it easier to wire stuff without needed soldering.
also ensure ALL solder points are solid and not broken loose or a wire has a busted end. Also if you are using screw terminals tin them (coat the wire exposed ends to a light coating of solder to make it a single solid physical connection piece.)
Unless runs are longer than 3 foot there is nothing to wrry about. Check your solder points as something may be offI still can't get it the stuff you talk about seems like it's a little out of my league. I wonder if my wire gauge is too thin? I'm using 22 gauge. Is that what's recommended?
OK other thing is to take a multimeter and tone out to verify connectivity pin by pin to make sure there is not a crossed line. Remember there are two main kinds of ethernet cables, regular and crossover(straight through).Yeah it's not the servos definitely I have another set and they all do the exact same thing. Thx for the suggestion!