My modified HasLab Proton Pack.

LeoCor Replicas

Sr Member
Received my HasLab Pack yesterday, and upon opening it, I couldn't help but notice some things that could be modified with a bit of ease.

I started by removing all of the main tubes, which was way easier than I expected. I covered the fake electrical tape with the real stuff, and re-colored all of the fittings using metallic Sharpie. For the red tube that goes into the right side of the cyclotron, I covered the original molded tape and clamps with real tape, and added two real hose clamps (which were a pain in the butt to tighten all the way). For the power cell lens, I colored in the space with a large blue Sharpie, using a cloth to even out the streaking marks, repeating the process until the lens was evenly coated. I was going to add screws to the ion arm, however the brass rod currently makes that an impossibility, as it's one piece that bends at an angle. For now, I applied a Molotow Liquid Chrome marker to the bulk of it, and used a soft brush to even it out (I did the same thing on the PPD and ribbon cable clamp). I snipped off the fake screw on the top of the booster frame, sanded it down a bit, widened the hole slightly with a 5/32 drill bit, and added a more accurate socket cap screw and washer. I also replaced the Phillips-head screws on both sides of the bumper with a similar size set of socket caps. Finally, I just adding a lot more weathering, focusing on making it look really dusty and grimy. I used various combinations of dark taupe, light tan, and matte black with a coarse brush and a dry-brush method.

I still need to do more, mainly replacing the cable sleeve, clamp, and other small bits of hardware. I may try changing out the ribbon cable, but that's gonna a be a bit further out in the future. Overall though, this thing is absolutely amazing, and 100% worth every penny.


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I made some more mods to my Pack, specifically the resistors on the ion arm, the shock mount/bellows, and the tubing on one of the injectors.

I snipped off the plastic imitation screws on the resistors, drilled a few small holes, and stuck in some tiny socket caps. I also stuck in a lead I snipped off an old Trap resistor, and stuck that inside the top of the fake RH-25. I didn't like the look of the molded screw on the shock mount/bellows, so I snipped that part off, tried drilling a hole, and failed miserably, as it went askew. I covered the hole with a washer, and used a screw slightly smaller than the hole, so that there was enough room to move the screw and washer into the middle of the bellows, and super glued it in place. Lastly, I made a quick mod to the injector tubing, wrapping the black one with blue electrical tape vertically, making it the correct color without needing to replace the part entirely.

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Finally got some of the screen-accurate wire mesh from Charlesworth Dynamics. I think I've completed most of the main mods I wanted to make to this thing, but I'll probably tinker with it forever.

I added some slightly more accurate screws to the cyclotron, as well as adding some black paint to the proper parts, but I still need to get paint markers for the wires. I also added wires and a grub screw to the front of the Thrower, based on photos from the Ghostbusters Reference Library.

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More Pack updates. Rectified the issue with the firing mode button being disguised as the hat light, which was probably one of the most frustrating mods I've done, since it was such a tight space to work with. That being said, I'm really glad that the mode button is now activated by a more accurate momentary switch. While I was doing that, I figured I'd swap out the "intensify" button for a slightly smaller one. I never noticed before how massive the stock one Hasbro used was before I compared it.

I also modified my cyclotron cable a bit, nothing major, just some cosmetic fixes. I picked up some LED lenses at Apex Surplus for the interior cyclotron, but I could only find red ones. I colored a few with green Sharpie just to differentiate them a bit, and weathered them to match the rest of the pack. They didn't fit over the molded lenses, so I snipped off the threaded bit, cut off the molded parts, added some short socket cap screws as anchors in the remaining holes of the cyclotron panel, and glued them on. Finally, I made this whole thing run off of a 3000mAh Talentcell battery pack. I had to make my own JST-to-USB cable to connect it, so I just snipped off the stock JST cable from the original battery compartment, and spliced it onto an old charging cable.

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Boy, I'm just terrible at updating my projects.

Re-weathered the whole Pack, as I went way too heavy on the silver the last go-around, this time going for a bit more black and browns for the overall piece.

I added an LED underneath a new light shroud for the hat light next to the proper mode change button, wired to the same circuit as the other orange LED on the wand, as well as also adding a new, bulkier shotgun grip thanks to Harsin's 3D Printing on Etsy! I also cut out the vent light cover for accuracy's sake. I used an old spacer from a broken wire rack shelf, some plastic clothespins, and yellow and silver paint to make a fake Neutrik connector on the the hose. It splits into two parts, so it's easily removable, and not permanent. Not perfect, but okay from afar. I also repainted the scuba hose part in a darker green, though I plan on replacing the hose entirely at some point. I repainted the CRT emitters in a weathered silver, and their cones in copper. I took out all the screws, and painted them brass as well.

Minor changes, but ones I think improve the Pack greatly. Can't wait to trek around town for Halloween. Just remind me to invest in back pain meds beforehand. XD


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