My Luke ESB lightsaber
- Thread starter Cadger
- Start date
Cadger
Well-Known Member
It's a replica made by Roy on theese forums (wannawanga.com). He has some great lightsaber parts.
Probe Droid
Master Member
A beauty! I never get tired of lightsabers.
Luke the Belter
Well-Known Member
:eek Nice...
Thanks to you...Now I want to get started on my ESB, too :wacko
Looks very good. Job well done.
Do you have some advice on drilling the holes for the T-track screws into the Graflex? Did you use a drill press or have you done it "free hand"?
Thanks to you...Now I want to get started on my ESB, too :wacko
Looks very good. Job well done.
Do you have some advice on drilling the holes for the T-track screws into the Graflex? Did you use a drill press or have you done it "free hand"?
matty matt
Sr Member
One of my favorites. Great job.
I too am looking for any pre-disaster advice on the drilling.
Cadger
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! I really appreciate your kind words!
I also have an ANH version which I did many years ago. The ANH version has a more old school feel which I like, but the ESB has a little more edge, if you know what I mean. I really like them both but ESB is a slight favourite.
I also have an ANH version which I did many years ago. The ANH version has a more old school feel which I like, but the ESB has a little more edge, if you know what I mean. I really like them both but ESB is a slight favourite.
I did the drilling by hand after gluing without any problem. I describe it in my tutorial here:
http://wannawanga.com/tutorials/luke-esb-tutorial/
Roy
www.wannawanga.com
Cadger
Well-Known Member
It was done free hand with my DeWalt, using the freezer as a workbench.
I drilled after the T-tracks was glued in place, which will keep the drill bit from sliding. I drilled twice. First with a smaller drill bit. It was really no problem at all. Just take your time to make sure you are drilling straight. You will be fine.
But what I do think many make a big fuss about is removing the beer tab. I did not use a dremel as many do (and risk scratching the flash). I simply used a pair of cutting pliers and it popped right of. Took me two seconds. I have only tried this once so I cannot guarantee that it will work every time, but I think it should.
Luke the Belter
Well-Known Member
It was done free hand with my DeWalt, using the freezer as a workbench.
I drilled after the T-tracks was glued in place, which will keep the drill bit from sliding. I drilled twice. First with a smaller drill bit. It was really no problem at all. Just take your time to make sure you are drilling straight. You will be fine.
But what I do think many make a big fuss about is removing the beer tab. I did not use a dremel as many do (and risk scratching the flash). I simply used a pair of cutting pliers and it popped right of. Took me two seconds. I have only tried this once so I cannot guarantee that it will work every time, but I think it should.
Great...then it will be free hand after gluing
Thank you both
In my tutorial I explain how I did it.
And here's the cave ESB, where you can see how it aligns with the Kobold clip and the Graflex clamp.
Yep, they're deformed and squashed, like they were melted or something. I've brought this up a few times and no one seems to have an answer. It's not a trick of the camera, as the other track are spot on...and this was a pretty clear direct shot with the camera.
My theory - since they're skinnier and have rounded edges - is that they did resin pulls of the track so they could have an endless supply and these were just rushed bad casts.
- - - Updated - - -
and, yes, as long as you're drilling straight, you're golden. Don't pay attention to my thread, a drill press only helps if everything's lined up lol
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