My Iwata gun is sputtering, man...

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Predator of Jax

New Member
So, it's the BCS version, and I have everything hooked up.

Here's the deal:

I'm waiting on my lycra suit to arrive, and I'm just getting the feel for the gun overall. I have the idea. I think it shouldn't be a problem for me once I have a few more sessions in.

However, when I start to make a design, even writing my name over and over, it starts to clog and sputter.

I'm telling y'all... when I say I 'thinned the paint', I thinned the paint. With only water however... It's Createx opaque airbrush paint.

I must have stopped 15 times to take the end nozzle off and continue to clean the needle/tip.

So, I'm just at a loss here. I've looked into google answers and what not. nothing.

I'm just thinking it is the thickness of the actual paint. They say turn the PSI up on the compressor if it starts to sputter. I'm running at about 75PSI though.

Any thoughts? I heard somewhere about diluting the paint with Isopropyl Alcohol and water... but I'm not sure of the mixture balance.

Any feedback is appreciated. I have to get decent REAL fast here.. ha. I should be alright once this damn problem gets solved!

Thanks.
 

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MasterAnubis

New Member
I'm still not claiming to be an expert... but did you try turning the pressure down?

I'm pretty sure my Smart Jet is set to 35psi.
 

MasterAnubis

New Member
no actually. ill try it. its just that when i bought it, the guy had it set there and he wasn't having any issues.
Maybe he didn't tell you he was having issues. ;)

BTW, my Iwata is an HP-CS. I'm still using the ComArt paint that came with the set with absolutely no issues with the airbrush. I love it.

The only time I've had spattering was with my single stage brushes with ProsAide.


Hopefully someone else may have a solution if the air pressure isn't the issue.
 

Jon

New Member
Do you have a moisture trap on the regulator or a dryer in-line between the compressor and the airbrush? The compressor running can cause moisture to condense on the inside of the tank, and pass that water through your line, causing all kinds of problems.

I've had problems with Createx paints before too. Try straining the thinned paint through some cheese cloth before you put in through your airbrush.
 

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biofreak

New Member
i highly recomend using "golden" paints.its a water based paint and its ready to spray rite outa the bottle.typical psi should be between 25-30 up to around 45 maybe...thats alot for a airbrush.as far as the tip drying out and spitting thats more than likely tha brand of paint ure using.just about all paints will do this,better tha paint the less it builds up on tha tip.when doin fine details is when its gonna gum up so every once in a while(every 3 or 4 minutes) hold ure gun off to the side and push down and all the way back on the trigger to get maximum paint comin out of it.this will blast off and little bits at the tip as long as u dont let it build up 2 thick rite.
 

Elkman

New Member
Createx paint is made for airbrushes, so it should already be at the right consistency. Unless the label says you should thin it, you don't need to thin it with water before applying it.

As far as a water trap goes, that would probably come in handy. I was having problems with my airbrush starting to sputter out water, especially after the compressor had been running for a while, and a couple people here gave me advice saying that the compressor isn't as good at removing water from the air when it gets hotter. So, maybe the water trap would work. Also, you should check every so often to make sure the needle isn't getting clogged, especially if you're painting anything thick, like latex mask paint.
 

Cathat

New Member
There's nothing truely "WRONG" with what you're doing, but you'll need to take more precatuions when airbrushing to prevent the dreaded 'spatter' THere's just a lof of things that can cause problems in an airbrush - i've worked with airbrushes since the 1980s - believe me i know.

I suggest you routinely do ALL these things


Get a MOISTURE TRAP in your airline - a cheap little cylinder one inline on your hose will do the trick. You might have one on your compressor - but get one inline too. Routinely open its valves to release water from your compressor and lines. The splatter your discribing sounds like this.... However.

I use old syringes or eyedroppers to suck up my paint from bottles after its mixed with thinners and force screen it through a thin mesh cloth down into your cups - like butterfly netting / panty hose - some kind of super thin screen - i never color direcly with paints squirted in - tiny clogs build in bottles - even in the fancy 'airbrush' paints. I don't care how smooth or creamy it looks. Often you'll see the bits remaining it the fine screen. Clean the screen immedately after use in a bucket - you can reuse a properly washed small screen swatch the size of a playing card for months.

Clean your metal airbrush and its needle with harsh kitchen cleanser 409 or some abrasive/agressive cleanser - keep q tips and paper towels handy to wipe down with.

YES -- Thinning with 50/50 alcohol water is a good practice - rubbing alcohol beads much finer than water - (plus alcohol keeps paints from going rancid - keeps down bacteria growth in water based pots - that stink you smell in old posts is often bacteria growing. Yum! Yeah don't be breathing those funes!)

Before you begin painting - Check your cones's tip - the tiny brass cone down inside the needle comes into drect ontact with - check its outer thin lip for micro-cracks or irregularies. Damaged cones cause irregularites in spray and sometimes lead to buildup that can break loose and spurt badly or blow boogar bits on paint chunks.

And Remember What they say in Pred 2 - "Shi-Happens" - LOL - but the more precautions you take the likelyhood of this will go down.


Good luck -

Cathat
 

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