My Guy Manuel (tron)- shape it, fill it, sand it, prime it...Photograph it

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by trooper1m, Nov 3, 2011.

Tags:
  1. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Hello fellow RPFers,
    Well thanks to the inspirational builds of fellow members like Volpin, Sorenzo, Thermistor, Firewire and my fascination with Daft Punk and Robots in general, i've decided to finally take the plunge and start my own Guy-Manuel build (and first build). I actually started this a few weeks ago but decided to hold off on starting a thread because i wanted to get past the ''boring'' early stages and wait until i had some progress and pics to share and it looks like i'm finally at the stage of building up outer detailing.

    There won't be many surprises in my build to Guy-Man aficionados, i will be using the Volpin Method.Now to the uninitiated ''The Volpin Method'' might sound like some kind of bizarre scandanavian contraception process but to those of us here at the RPF it's known as just a flat out fantastic way to build a helmet. So without further ado....

    Stage 1
    [​IMG]

    Stage 2
    [​IMG]

    i used unfortunately expensive craft foam here and an orbital sander to get the shape i required, it worked out well and gave me the confidence to proceed with nice little smug grin on my face.

    Stage 3
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Ear placement holders in and covered in PVA

    Stage 4
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bondo (or P38 here in the uk) applied and first of many rounds of sanding, starting with 40 grit and working up to about 120grit

    Stage 5
    [​IMG]

    More sanding, this was the point where i became OBSESSED with the chin section and as you can see i kept sanding too far and back to the foam. Still not a happy bunny.

    Stage 6
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Still going back to the foam every * time, frustrating to say the least. Sometimes it looked fantastic, other times i hated the way it looked. I did a coat of primer to see if i could get a better look at what was going on. What my problem might have been at this point was knowing when to put the orbital sander down and work by hand. Many good members at the RPF have promoted the virtues of the orbital sander in builds like these and rightly so, my new B&D sander will go through P38 without batting the proverbial eyelid but i now think that if i'd stopped using it a little earlier i might have stopped going through to the foam quite so much. Hey that's how you learn right?
    Also the white filler is white extra fine Milliput in an attempt to fill some smaller holes. Now i believe Volpin did mention in his build what a nightmare it was trying to sand two different densities of filler. I can absolutely concur with this statement. For those very small and frustrating holes i found that a very very light skim of P38 worked way better than the milliput.

    Stage 7
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Gouge out those cheek areas that i keep sanding back too and then fill with P38.

    Stage 8
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now we're getting somewhere or at least thats how it feels, pretty happy with the shape in general, few more coats of primer after filling a few more little holes and the sanding has gone from 240grit upto 1000grit i think. I also tried a little ''wet sanding'' just to be sure that ''wet sanding'' was what i thought it was ,sanding with water !!duh!!.......and it was, i now see how that super glossy finished look just prior to moulding is achieved, it's super cool to see my build do what it's supposed to.

    Stage 9
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I took some pics of the size of my bucket so far, I'm only 5'8'' and 160lbs so i was worried about the bucket being too big for me. I did a test shot and photoshopped it onto my head for a rough guide and it looks good for me. Since this will be the TRON red carpet bucket i wanted it to be reasonably snug. The behind the scenes pics of DP on set certainly have Guy-Mans head looking like it's filling the bucket nicely or at least his face looks pretty close to the visor to me. Note too that i got one side of my ear templates wet during the wet sanding and it's swollen up a fair bit, i'll either replace it or sand it away, not sure which yet..

    Well thats it so far, i have a carpenter friend knocking me up some ear templates so that i can build up the outer details.
    I wrote this in one go so if i've missed anything then please feel free to ask anything you like, also all comments,critiques and help is more than welcome at this point..
     
  2. LumberZach

    LumberZach New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    Thanks for posting this up Trooper, looking awesome so far. I think your thread was the last straw and now I want to dive into a GM build. Just wasn't sure if I wanted to pep it or do the Volpin method. Looks like I'll do the latter.

    Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing your progress.
     
  3. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Thanks Lumber, I reckon you should go for it, when i first saw Volpins Guy-man i was just incredibly intimidated because it was so amazing and never thought i could do it myself, but i'm maybe a 3rd of the way done and while it hasn't been easy i am delighted about just how ham fisted i'm not.....Good luck with your build when u start
     
  4. Jardine

    Jardine Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Looks great man! Thats one of the helms I wanted to start on, but I haven't built up the guts yet to buckle down and give it a shot. Keep it up!
     
  5. ASLumabas

    ASLumabas New Member

    Trophy Points:
    16
    NICE! what color are you plan to paint? "Alive" version or "Tron" version?
     
  6. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Thanks Jardine, Much appreciated. you should definately start your own bucket, i'm enjoying the build so much that i can't believe i waited so long to start....
     
  7. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Hey ASLumbas, i think i'll probably do both, my personal preference is for gold but it'd be a shame not to do the tron colourway given that's the bucket i'm using mainly for reference. I prefer the look of the filleted back section rather than the wires
     
  8. Jardine

    Jardine Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Did you have and experience sculpting before??
     
  9. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    No , Not like this, i'm a hairdresser and i have an eye for creating a shape ,but i've never worked with auto filler before and i'd never so much as touched an orbital sander before this.......I'm a proper noob, but it's a very satisfying process when you get going..
     
  10. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Small update before this weekend. Made a couple of ear pieces that im gonna use as templates for building up the outer details. I'm going to put strips of styrene around them before the bondo goes on so i can take them out after with hopefully a nice clean arch. Oh and i marked out the details as you can see below, they're not final as i cant decide if the bars accross the back and top are too wide. anyone got any thoughts?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Crank729

    Crank729 Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,355
    I think the bar on top is a little too wide, but other than that, this looks to be a great build so far.
     
  12. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Today i did a little more sanding. I used Sorenzos tip for using a long piece of sandpaper to sand "shoe shine" style accross the top getting rid of an annoying bump i'd noticed. A couple of coats of primer and then i marked out the placement of the outer details again, making the top and back bars a little narrower....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Darth Pinhead

    Darth Pinhead Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    I have a sandpaper trick which ought to help with the "shoe shine" method. I have gotten in the habit of putting duct tape on the back side of sand paper to keep it from tearing. You can really go to town with it with the reinforcement. Great for higher grit sanding, to obtain the polished look. Liking this build...
     
  14. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    That is a great idea Darth, fortunately the 5m roll of sandpaper i bought is already backed with some kind of woven thread similar to duct tape or ripstop silk..

    Also while i'm at it, my ear peices are taking a little longer than i'd hoped to get ready so things have ground to a halt until i get those in so i can move forward and i'm dying to get more done......hmmm might be time to start on my Daft hands
     
  15. Thermistor

    Thermistor Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Beautiful start! Looking great, keep it up.
     
  16. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Thanks man, thats very much appreciated. I followed your build pretty closely and you got great results which really gave me some real inspiration to get mine started.
     
  17. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Just the tiniest of updates folks, a friend of mine said he'd turn out my Guy-Manuel ears for me. As it happens he went for the 3D CNC approach, some may say thats overkill but it's his tool of choice, so who am i to argue. This was an hour ago. Many thanks to Conan Abel.
    [​IMG]

    Well that was quick, my friend just sent me this pic and with any luck i'll get these tomorrow, cant wait. Not having ears has really held up the build for the last couple of weeks, so hopefully full steam ahead this weekend....
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2011
  18. Daddyphat

    Daddyphat New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    Looking great
     
  19. SailorEarth

    SailorEarth Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    I never would have guessed this was your first build, it's looking great so far.
     
  20. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Here's a bit of an update. I've started building up the outer details finally, it's going pretty well but i've run out of P38 (bondo), so here's a couple of pics of how its going so far..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2011
  21. Darth Pinhead

    Darth Pinhead Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    Yay! Someone else believes in templates, lol. Looking great, brother!
     
  22. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Lol, Yeah i do, its been a pretty good system with what is probably minimal clean up after the templates/dams come off. I think i saw thermistor do a method like this first and then sorenzo did his version of it and thats more how ive done mine. Ive adapted it a little for me and when i get more P38 i'll take closer pics of how i'm doing the dams on my helmet.
     
  23. brulafu

    brulafu Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    Looking good, I recently got one of Sorenzos lids and have just started trimming the resin - turns out I need a workshop and having resin dust all around the livingroom is not a good idea - luckily the girlfriend was out, I had time to hoover and dust before she came back :)
     
  24. struve1976

    struve1976 New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    That's amazing work and detail. Very professional. Terrific stuff.
     
  25. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Yeah man the basement of my salon is covered in dust from the p38, haven't tried sanding resin before so i've that to look forward too. I 've sanded ABS before and its horrible, it balls up into tiny balls of molten plastic and burns like hell if you get i you. Congrats on getting one of sorenzos lids, i hope you post some pics up as you complete it. I'd love to see one finished in chrome.
     
  26. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Thanks Struve, much appreciated but not professional at all, this is my first scratch build (even though Volpin did all the hard work originally and i'm just copying his method). All i've done is take my time and not rush things.
     
  27. Thermistor

    Thermistor Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Solid job. Glad the templates are working for you.
     
  28. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    New update from today, i continued to build up the outer details using the fence/dam method, got loads done, photographed doing the dams, got the back bar added and more of the sides done too. I even managed to chuck a quick coat of primer on it at the end of the day just to see where i was at. Then got home and promtly managed to delete most of todays photos whilst attempting to load them onto my ipad.

    So sorry if these pics look like a bit of a jump.
    Here's a pic of one the dams i used for the back bar. As it turns out this was easily held in place with masking tape accross the supports, one removed the tape leaves no marks to my shiney dome. these a ABS and the supports were fixed in place with poly weld
    [​IMG]

    The right side. I want to add a little extra to the front facing arch around the ear i think, it's not as pretty as the left side as it looks thinner too. I know its just gonna bug me so.....
    [​IMG]

    The left side coming together nicely
    [​IMG]

    And with primer
    [​IMG]

    There's still plenty to do, will have to spend some time on the chin and im really looking forward to that for some reason....anyhoo comments, critiques and such are welcome etc..
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2012
  29. Darth Pinhead

    Darth Pinhead Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    If you have a roll of tracing paper, just painters tape in place on left side, trace, and place on right side to see where it differs. It's a pretty level plane, so it should work. Other than that, love your dam method (Oh, just had a flashback of an old Simpson's episode of Bart using dam)...
     
  30. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Another sunday, another update from this week. I filleted the back this week and it's nearly finished. I did some more work on the chin and i think i'm happy with how it looks finally. In somoe pics it looks square but from the top you can see how smooth it is. This is i think why the chin on Guy Man always looks different. Hopefully you'll see what i mean in these pics...also i'm adding some extra P38 to the bottome edge to try and even up the symmetry from the back .
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Theres still a few tiny holes to fill and once the bottom egde is clean up then it's on to the seam line..
     
  31. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Here's the latest update. The seam around the back sectioned was next on my list of things to do. This is the last thing i can do pretty much before i start on the ears and i wasn't looking forward to it. Cutting into something that i've spent a lot of time making smooth was wholly unnatural but as it turned out this was the easiest part of the build so far. A piece of styrene taped down as a guide and a fine saw i bought from my local model shop got the jod done easily with a little patience. For the curved part of the seam i also used a styrene template but used a stanley knife to cut gently into the helmet over n over again until i'd reached the depth i needed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Also a quick photoshop mockup using the drawings i've done for the ears to give. An idea of how it'll hopefully look and fit
    [​IMG]
     
  32. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    hey all, Another week another update. Firstly i had a major fail whilst trying to make the ears. Basically i don't have the right tools for the job and i really didn't want to put ears on that i wasn't happy with so i'm going down the CNC route again. In the mean time i did a little more work on the chin and gave it another coat of primer. here's where it's at currently. Still a few minor details to sort out but they'll be done when i attach the ears. After that it'll be wet sanding and prep for the molding process.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  33. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    I finally got my ears and they're on. Only a few minor details to tidy up then i gotta find some ear cones
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  34. VitaminZinc

    VitaminZinc Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Pretty sweet build. Can't wait to see it glowing. :D

    The seam areas between the main part at the ears came out really well. Good job.
     
  35. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Got my ear cones so this is essentially the finish sculpt. Next job is wet sanding and then onto molding.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And a Quick mock up
    [​IMG]
     
  36. The Ronin

    The Ronin Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    866
    This is looking amazing. One of these days I'm going to do a Guy-Man helmet. I'm just not looking forward to all the wiring :wacko
     
  37. Teese

    Teese Member

    Trophy Points:
    180
    Mmmm very nice!
     
  38. welshwarrior123

    welshwarrior123 Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    566
    Absolutely incredible build mate. The piece looks so smooth, I cant imagine the amount of time sanding it took. The results are worth it though and your detailing is fantastic. The wet sanding should really make it like glass.

    I love that stage of the build, probably because you know your so close to putting some primer down on the finished piece :). Really looking forward to another update.
     
  39. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Thanks for the kind words gents, i'm so looking forward to getting this molded soon
     
  40. Buddha

    Buddha New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    This bucket looks sweet, sir.
    I really like the flat piece on the chin.
     
  41. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Well its been a while since my last update and in that time i've managed to get a mold done of my sculpt. It wasn't easy and i had a fail with the first mold due to my not making the silicone part of the mold thick enough and as a result it wouldn't hold it's shape. The second mold however worked out great and i got my first cast out of it yesterday. I used smooth-on Onyx and i got a fair amount of tiny blisters as it cured so while i was delighted with the shape, i wasn't totally happy with the finish....anyway here's a couple of pics
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  42. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    It's been a while since my last update but i do have some news on this build. Since getting the mould done my main focus has been getting the visor sorted out. I built a vac former but i'm not getting a quick enough seal when i try a pull and out of 10 sheets of PET-G i got maybe 3 usable visors. Fortunately the partner of one of my girlfriends friends is the technician at the local art school and he says i can go and use their vac former so hopeful i'll get some nicer pull in the next couple of weeks. That being said i did get a couple of visors into a couple of helmets and they look great in place.
    Since this is the Tron and current version of Guy Manuels helmet the visor is set from the inside. This has been a massive pain in the backside but it is worth the extra effort as it looks really clean from the inside. Anyway here's a couple of pics
    [​IMG]

    For an idea of scale
    [​IMG]

    Worn
    [​IMG]
     
  43. Lauralot

    Lauralot Member

    Trophy Points:
    192
    That is gorgeous! I hope the new vac former works for you.
     
  44. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    Well it's been a while since my last post but i have some progress to share now , so here it is.
    I managed to get to use a good vac former at the local art school and finally got some proper visor pulls done. The new pull visor fitted perfectly into the inside of the helmet.

    Here i used the cutting disc on a dremel to scoop out the Onyx and cut a channel for the lip of the visor to sit into.
    [​IMG]

    I trimmed the lip of the visor, inserted it into the helmet and used a marker pen to mark on the inside of the helmet to mark where the Visor wasn't meeting as flush as it could be so i could grind that part down and make more room. It was a process of trim some helmet/trim some visor until it fitted properly
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    you can see here the channel cut just inside the edge of the helmet
    [​IMG]

    Once i had a nice fit it was time to dye the visors. I initially tried to dye the PETG before i formed them. Partially in an effort to avoid any chance of deformation should i have to put the visor into a pot for dying and partially to see if dyed PETg sheets would remain evenly tinted or would the colour ''stretch'' during forming. As it turned out i couldn't keep the tall thin dye bath i built for the sheets on any kind of heat so once the water cooled the dye stopped tinting the PETG. So in the end i had to vac form first and tint after.

    For the dying process i used 2 packs of black RIT dye and filled this huge pot. The second round of tinting a 60/40 mix of 3 pack black RIT and 2 packs dark green RIT. More packs of dye definitely cuts down on the overall process time.
    [​IMG]
    i did fashion a contraption from wife coat hangers in order to keep the visor off the ''hot'' sides of the pot but ultimately at the 140f i heated the pot to wasn't enough to deform or warp the PETG, so in the end i did away with it.
    [​IMG]
    At the end of the day i was reasonably happy with my results although the visors still weren't quite dark enough and i knew i'd need to do a second round of tinting.
    [​IMG]

    This is where things got interesting. i've been a hairdresser for over 20 years so my colour theory is pretty good and it helped a lot doing the visor tinting.I noticed i was getting an overall red hue to my visor from the black. This is because there is no real colour as ''black''. Black is a depth of shade and has no tone of its own. So where dye is concerned, black is just a mix of many colours mixed together until they are so dark that it looks black. Now reds are favoured for mixing black dye because the colour molecules in red dye are the smallest of all colour molecules and this allows them to penetrate the PETG first and therefore get a good tint going. The mix of warm colours that i'm guessing make up ''black'' RIT dye will add to the saturation of colour quicker because they aren't competing against each other in the dye. This is what caused the red hue. Normally that wouldn't be a problem but for anyone wanting to add lights to a DP helmet , they may find that the red hue in the visor works against the colour gels that are put in for the rainbow lights.

    My fix for this was to retint the visors using dark green RIT dye added to my ''black'' RIT. Green is the opposite of red and the two colours cancel each other out. I used 60% ''black'' and 40%green RIt dye in the same pot to try and cancel out some of the warmth. I chose 60% black to err on the side of caution but i really would've been fine with 50/50 in the end.
    I had 4 visors from the previous round of tinting and 3 fresh ones with no tint at all. I kept one of the previously tinted visors out of this batch to use as a control. Using the 60/40 mix took some of the red out of the previously tinted visors and gave a more neutral brown tint. The fresh visors worked great. Initially they appear to take longer to tint but what is actually happening is that the 60/40 mix in the first 3 dips or so is giving us a very light beige colour which can look a bit like it's not working, but it is. As you do more and more dips with the visor the saturation builds within the PETG and what you get is a dark brown that looks black instead of a dark red that looks black.Here's the colour wheel showing all colours and their opposites.
    [​IMG]
    Here's the fresh visor on the right after a few dips compared to the control visor from the first round of tinting. You can see how the control visor on the left looks much warmer than the 60/40 tinted visor.
    [​IMG]
    My process was heat the pot to 140f then take off the heat. Add the visor for 5 mins then plunge straight into a cold bath to set the colour then repeat till you get the desired look.
    And here's what i ended up with
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
    toggle47 likes this.
  45. Briciius

    Briciius Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    566
    clean as a baby skin u_u

    Where did you find the visor ?
     
  46. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    I made the visor, made a buck from the helmet mold and then vac formed them
     
  47. trooper1m

    trooper1m Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    331
    DAFT PUNK My Guy Manuel (tron)- shape it, fill it, sand it, prime it...Photograph it

    I made the visor, made a buck from the helmet mold and then vac formed them
     
  48. Dagibbon

    Dagibbon Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Nice skills Trooper, it's looking great! Looking forward to seeing it finished. :)
     
  49. louisblock

    louisblock New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    Fantastic work, Trooper! Really enjoying seeing your process, its inspiring me to work on my own, and definitely try my hand at tinting too!

    Keep me posted :)
     
  50. coffeebot

    coffeebot New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    This looks amazing for a first build. I'd love to see what ended up with it? Did you get it chromed?
     

Share This Page