my first graflex saber

[MrGzilla]

hey everyone, i just finished my vary first graflex build. i decided to go with the anh version because i like the look of it more than the esb. its a parks replica that i got from a member here and the grips, d-ring, bubble strip, and chrome tape came in a kit off ebay.
i know the d-ring is not in the right position because the member i got it from had alwready drilled 2 holes for the esb version but it dosent bother me that much, other than that i think its pretty accurate.
please tell me what you think of it, and any advice you might have to make it better.

 

[DemonSeed]

beautiful saber my friend. If I was you, I would purchase some cast acrylic bubbles from Rebelscum. I have some and they are the closest thing to the exactra 20 bubbles.
also, it seems you have mylar under the bubbles....thats not accurate. also, take the mylar off the clamp.
you can check it out at ------- The Parts of Star Wars --------

 

[OldKen]

Looking good!

The bubble strip isn't accurate. (the 2 half bubbles on the end aren't on the original)

And you can always get closer to SA with Gino's grips.

But those are things you can get as you go.

The correct bubble strip has been perfectly reproduced by one of our members... let me try and find a link for you bud.

Demonseed beat me to the punch! Yes it is rebelscum who I was thinking of. Crystal clear and gorgeous. I have the same incorrect strip as you do and have been meaning to get one of RS's!

And yes, it was long thought that this saber had the tape. Because we KNOW the ESB did. (textured though) It is kind of a personal preference thing. I don't believe it was there in the movie either, but sometimes names of earthly manufacturers can take you out of the "element" of a piece.

 

[MrGzilla]

thanks for the input, why take the mylar off the clamp? i thought that the anh had it? im probably wrong but i think ill keep it cuz i like the way it looks. also theres no mylar under the bubble strip it just looks like it in the pics

 

[MrGzilla]

and thanks for the advice on the bubble strip, do either of you have a link to somewhere i could get it? or should i just contact rebelscum?

 

[DemonSeed]

Rebelscum eStore

 

[MrGzilla]

thanks for the link, when i get some more money ill deffinatly get one.

 

[parfaitelumiere]

With the rebelcum bubbles you will have the correct number of magnifiers,7 instead on 8.
They are definetly the most accurate replica bubbles.
The other part you can replace is the D ring,to be more accurate.
The original D ring is for a 3/4"flat steel sheet,just one hole,like on the photo:

It's not easy to find exactly the same,but you can find the ring,and grind a metal sheet and drill.

 

[parfaitelumiere]

I have seen some sceen accurate D rings on this WEBSITE

Just take a look at the mounted metal one.
I think the heavy welded nickel plated ones are more accurate,you can buy both,and replace the ring,using the strap,and heavy welded nickel plated ring.

I asked them about shipping to France,The use EMS,and I would not pay 40$ for a 40c item...

Whenever you buy some stuff in this company,please let me know,I would be interested in paying you some stuff for me,and asking you for a first class enveloppe or small packet(about 2-4$)to send items to France...

 

[Sym-Cha]

Hi there,

Looks quite an okay lightsaber if you have no need for screen accuracy. Otherwise follow the above suggestions

Should you ever decide to alter your D-Ring might I suggest the 'Stainless Steel D Ring' from that excellent site that Parfaitelumiere found. The advantage is that you could have it glossy as it comes from the factory or sand it a little and give it a more satin shine which you can not do with a nickelplated because the plating could perhaps chip of.

Also inquire if you need a 3/4" or 1" D-ring (this depends whether the manufacturer measures the inside or the outside of the D and you need at least about 20 mm=3/4" where the clip has to attach) to fit your Park's Clip which by the way is acceptable and all you would need to do is unscrew it from your 'graflex' and open the clip to remove the D-Ring and replace it with the Stainless Steel D-ring!

Now that you have your lightsaber . . .

MTFBWY,

-Chaim

 

[MrGzilla]

Thanks for more great advice, when I get some more money I'll deffinatly get a better D-ring and bubble strip. I've got to finish my stormtrooper helmet first so It might take some time :/

 

[OldRoninJedi]

Good job on the saber! Nice pics, too. There are a lot of good ideas and responses posted here in regards to screen accuracy, but to me the end question always is...do you like it the way it is? I'll usually leave or change some detail in a prop or model to make me feel like it's more mine. Like I left my mark on it or made a unique version of it. I have a Luke ESB saber with only the original Graflex button as I can't stand the way it looks with two of them. And so I'm cool with it not being SA. Is that blasphemy? Maybe. But I like it the way it is and that's what matters to me. Just a thought. Keep having fun with it and please post more pics as you do!

 

[parfaitelumiere]

Of course you are not wrong.
I just want the accurate parts I like^^.
Why?
Because a 6 digit exactra gives only complete bubbles when trimmed,it looks like it was conceived to go on a graflex clamp.
And the "good" shaped D ring just fits perfectly to the 38mm graflex radius,as it was invented just to go on a lightsaber.
I prefer the ANH lightsaber,because of these the D ring is really better for the eye than the ESB one,and the grips have no bolts to fix them,I prefer.
Looks really like a real weapon.
How to keep some personnal mark,I think whith a aquamarine and dt quartz,and a removable blade it will be a unique version!

 

[Clutch]

I love it when people ask how to make it better and then say I like it the way it is. :lol

Slight veer, what is the accurate size for a Vader ANH D ring? I need to buy one. If it is on that site, I'll order some, just let me know what you need.

 

[parfaitelumiere]

Dont know exactly about it,seems shape is a real D,not between a O and D like the Lukes one.
Llooks like a 3/4" D shaped,height is around 12mm.
What I'm not sure is the thickness of the wire,but looks like a 2,4 or 2,5mm nickel plated wire.
Of course,it would be easier if I had the original prop in the hand...even a true MPP flashgun would be great!
In fact I think this is the type of D ring I baught for my luke before seeing it was the wrong shape.

 

[Sym-Cha]

Hi Clutch,

Don't know the correct size of the D-Ring that was on the MPP ANH Vader however here's a picture of a slightly altered regular D (size 3/4" measured from the inside of the part that can split in two to attach it onto your shroud thickness 2.0 mm = 1/25" nickel plated and height 18.0 mm = 7/10") on my vintage MPP :

Still have 8 of those same D-rings available. If you or anyone else want one send me your interest and address via PM and I'll have it shipped to you a.s.a.p. You would have to bend/alter it yourselfs though to make it look like mine or leave it as it is.

@Patrice a 2.5mm thick D-ring would be a very tight fit through the MPP shroud however with the right tools it could be possible perhaps.

-Chaim

 

[OldRoninJedi]

I love it when people ask how to make it better and then say I like it the way it is. :lol

I didn't say that I personally liked it the way it was, Clutch, I asked him if he did, rhetorically. Besides, isn't "make it better" a personal perception?

 

[parfaitelumiere]

I think mines can be a little bit too thick for a MPP,if the original one is 2mm.
Shape is not too bad,I don't know if it can work,enven it's thicker.
FOr a graflex it's definitely not accurate...

 

[Sym-Cha]

Hi Patrice,

Yours is just fine for an MPP if you can get it to fit

(Picture courtesy Parfaitelumiere)

Apologies to MrGzilla for hyjacking your thread about D-rings and so on :$

-Chaim

 

[OldRoninJedi]

Hi Patrice,

Yours is just fine for an MPP if you can get it to fit

(Picture courtesy Parfaitelumiere)

Apologies to MrGzilla for hyjacking your thread about D-rings and so on :$

-Chaim

Chaim-
Thanks for posting this pic. That's seriously helpful. Now, any advice for that getting it to fit part?