My first build (deago ESB SS Falcon!)

Discussion in 'Commercial Kit Builds' started by Ktaylor, Apr 13, 2015.

  1. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    First off this is an awesome site, such cool and inspiring stuff! So much I decided I was gonna scratch build a MF! Then all of a sudden the Deagostini midel came out and I thought hey maybe I should just build this and mod it along the way instead of just doing it all from scratch lol. Glad I did, this is an awesome model and tracking down all the little discrepancies to the original ESB Studio model is REALLY fun :) So I thought I would start a thread to share my progress and keep track of what I'm doing for myself as well! My hope is to share my work and get some Pro tips from some you more seasoned model masters! So keep in mind that I'm making this up as I go along and if you see something that looks like "the long way around" or maybe could be done in a better more accurate/efficient manner please let me know!!!

    First off... that turret window, wow okay for such a detailed kit with so much ref back to the studio model I'm surprised that its glued in the wrong way, seems like prolly a communications issue with the factory that creates the parts maybe,... but its like that on the blueprint as well, oh well lets fix it!!

    I decided to sand off all the little bar details and just redo it all to be a bit more accurate to the original since I had it out :) not perfect but closer for sure...

    Removed all the existing details
    IMG_2912.JPG


    I sanded down the thickness and added this styrene strip around the top to create a second edge ring that more closely resembles the Original, since I sanded down the thickness of the piece first I am more or less back to the original pieces thickness, at least that is my intent. Will sand this added pieces thickness down as well to bring it down a bit.
    *the first time I tried this it completely failed, I then pre wrapped my strip of styrene around a magic marker and taped it there in place for about 10 mins, when I unraveled it from the marker it had a perfectly curved radius to it which was MUCH easier to line up glue around the edge keeping the inside track flush with the original.
    IMG_2914.JPG

    Next I cut out little notches and fed the bars through, which really helped hold them in place while I glued them down, I also found that leaving them longer than needed REALLY helped as well as it gave me little handles to hold them with which could be snipped off later with the exacto-
    IMG_2932.JPG

    Then I just bent the long pieces over the top, glued them down with a bit of super glue and cut the final angle at each edge with my exacto knife.
    IMG_2933.JPG

    SUPER excited about the final look, feels way closer to the movie prop and i am COMPLETELY addicted to modding these pieces now !!! haha


    While I was at it and feeling like a styrene master I decided to start looking around and found a bunch of little panels that are missing from the turret!!

    IMG_2922.JPG IMG_2923.JPG

    ah much better!

    Really excited to prime this all and see how the added detail blends in!!

    Hit it with Tamiay Grey fine Primer (rattlecan) seems to work just fine, although I got a kinda fuzzy feel in a couple places I had to knock down with some 1200 grit paper, anyone know if I did something wrong or is this just something that can occur? I almost feel like its overspray drying before it hits the surface or something? Not sure, anyways buffs right down so not gonna worry about it too much...

    Looks awesome! I love how all the added detail blends in and really adds alot to the over all look of the piece!! okay if I didn't mention it before I'm WAY hooked on this!!
    IMG_2946.JPG IMG_2949.JPG


    -Kris
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay next up, even though it isn't accurate to the original model I simply cant stand having guns with no holes in the ends of the barrels...so gonna sort that out!

    My first thought was to drill little holes in the metal, but I was worried about how clean/precisely in the center it would all look, so I found some 3/32 round styrene at the local hobby shop and decided to try and use that instead.

    Rather than cut off little pieces and try to line them up on the barrel I thought it would be much easier to glue 2 pieces of the styrene together before cutting, that way with one cut I would get both holes at the same height for each barrel and it was much easier to fit the larger piece with both barrel tips on rather than one at a time! guntips.jpg

    Glued up all the ends, turns out each barrel end is 3/32 as well so they fit perfectly!
    guntips01.jpg

    and finally Primed to see the final effect!
    looks really cool!
    Guntips02.jpg


    All the pieces primed and put together, really starting to look cool, this model is really gonna be fun to build and be really impressing, the size alone is amazing!
    002.jpg IMG_3007.JPG IMG_3008.JPG


    Kris
     
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  3. Jaitea

    Jaitea Master Member

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    You're doing a great job,....It looks better with primer,.....love the improvements

    J
     
  4. Jedi Dade

    Jedi Dade Sr Member

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    Smokin'

    Jedi Dade
     
  5. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks guys! yeah I never really know how its gonna feel till I get the primer on and then it seems to really fill in any edges and unify it all together really well!
     
  6. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    My first build - DeAgostini ESB Falcon!

    The next mod I have decided to do was a really big one for me, I wasn't really sure if I would be able to pull it off but I am super happy with the results have a lot more confidence to do larger more extreme mods now!!

    As you all know by now that hull plating on the escape pods tubes is really not on there correctly, it is flush with the top of the surface when it should really look like plating attached to the sides of the surface. Seems like not that big a deal but it's one of those things that just takes away from the complexity and detail of the original model. So I have decided to just remove all the detail and build it back from scratch, it seems extreme but I couldn't really figure out a better way with the tools I have soooooo

    problem..
    there should be an extra top edge on each plate so it looks like they have been attached to the existing sub shape, but instead they are just flush with the top making it look like, well not sure, but not "right"
    IMG_3025.JPG PlatingEdge.jpg

    so I used a woodworking chisel and took off the big pieces
    IMG_3028.JPG

    then put it on a block and sanded the rest of the panels off till I had a nice flat surface, whew okay so far so good wasnt sure how that was gonna turn out!
    IMG_3029.JPG IMG_3034.JPG


    I transferred the shape onto some .02" thick sheet styrene which I found to be the same thickness as the rest of the hull plating detail. Then started cutting out the notches and plate lines.
    IMG_3038.JPG IMG_3043.JPG IMG_3039.JPG IMG_3059.JPG

    Glued them on then made the vertical bar pieces to replace, much like the gun turret details I added earlier.
    Final rebuild! Couldn't be happier with the results!!! The Hull plating clearly are their own individual pieces now!! and the texture/detail it creates looks really cool!
    IMG_3063.JPG IMG_3064.JPG IMG_3072.JPG

    Onto the other piece!
    IMG_3078.JPG IMG_3079.JPG

    This has some extra detail at the end that needs to be added back, it's pretty basic though so not to hard to build up!
    IMG_3099.JPG

    Final rebuild of all the hull plating and details on both sides, and primed!
    005.jpg IMG_3175.JPG IMG_3176.JPG IMG_3178.JPG

    Really excited about this Mod, and couldn't be more stoked about how it turned out!!!

    Kris
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 14, 2015
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  7. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Scratch built a "falcon looking" test piece out of styrene to practice painting/weathering techniques on.

    011.jpg

    Did a wash, never done one before so I wasn't sure what to expect, i did how ever think I would be able to wipe away from areas I didnt want it, but it seemed to stick everywhere, I think maybe I should have sealed the base coat first? any suggestions?
    IMG_3201.JPG

    added a red and grey panel to try the paint chip using hairspray before the colors are applied, used a wet q tip to get the chips to come off, this worked better than I expected, I like how I have controll enough to do specific chips with my toothpick, or just rub it with a big wet q-tip randomly and get nice big pieces peeling away! this was fun and very addicting:) and Since you are peeling paint off you get a nice layered 3d effect to the chips which doesn't really show very well in the pics but to the eye it looks great!!
    010.jpg 008.jpg

    Also used some Tamiya "smoke" to lay down some discoloration, then used one of the Tamiya weathering pastel sets and really like that, just adding some dust on the sufrace and pulling it down with a brush made some great "star wars" looking streak marks! added some yellows and green in to kinda add some subtle color which I feel like I have noticed on lots of the achive pics of SW ship pics, need to look at the actual Falcon ref images and try to figure out where all these places are, which is REALLY hard looking at pics that aren't white balanced lol

    One question, I assume I need to seal all of this once I'm done so that the pastels dont get rubbed off or smeared, what is a good product for this? I/m using Tamiya Acrylic paints and pastel sets.

    think I'm gonna wash this off with warm water, re prime it and start all over trying out more stuff and practicing these techniques some more, prolly build out a larger area and glue this on so I have larger area to practice on, plus scratching this stuff together is a lot of fun, I really want to try out a full scratch build soon!

    Kris
     
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  8. Lee S

    Lee S Sr Member

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    REALLY good stuff there! I'll be doing basically the same thing to mine, so please keep posting so I can steal you ideas :)
     
  9. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay time to try and sort out the cockpit window framing, the pieces come with this big thick bars that don't taper like they do on the original studio model, also from the molding process they have these slopes to the sides of them so they could be pulled from the molds presumable, okay I get mass production molding issues so not a big deal really, but the frames are just laid out wrong so I'm gonna try my best to just remove them and rebuild them back more accuratley ;D here goes!

    first step cut them out on one side and file down the frame so it's nice and clean and ready for new frames
    IMG_3243.JPG

    Next I built up that bottom frame a bit as it needs to be higher up and not on the same level as the front windows bottom edge, also added my new tapered frames, they dont look it in this shot based on angle and lens perspective but they are :D
    IMG_3262.JPG


    next up the super tedious process of outlining each of the frames with this little raised bit of .03x.03" styrene strips....uhhhhg this is the most time consuming part by fart but really looks nice when you get them all lined up..I added the little cross frame pieces as well that turned out nice and tucks into the frame supports...:D
    4545454.jpg 4545.jpg 5656.jpg


    okay I'm half way there! now time to do the other side and center trim pieces

    hmmm I'm thinking the trim I am using is a bit too thick, at least on the lead edge up front by the nose cone, I'm gonna try to trim it back a bit with my exacto so its not so thick on that lead edge shown here and see how it all looks...
    front edge.jpg
    if it still looks to thick everywhere I guess I'm gonna pull all that off and rebuild it with the next size down which would be .02x.02" square strips, dang, I really don't want to have to do that all over again...but has to be right, and It really looks like these are too thick ;(

    Also looking at the ref there is a nice panel that will cover all the seams up I have created by adding the wall height and the seam of the 2 pieces being glued together :) now just have to fill that front seam and make those front bars a bit thinner, will try to file them down bit first before replacing them all together.
    PanelSeam.jpg


    looking at this ref again I might be okay or at least close enough with the trim thickness, that lead edge looks thinner than the rest for sure which is an easy fix to what I have
    IMG_3286.PNG
     
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  10. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Man looking at it again I realize the piece in the front is too thick also, dang it!! gonna just take it all out and start over hahah need to thin that down for sure!


    front thick.jpg
    on the right is how it comes, need to file down the yellow part I drew to be more like the final PS'ed thickness on the right..sigh, so yeah complete redo...good thing this is supposed to take 2 years to build!!
     
  11. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finished up all the little trim pieces around the windows and added the new panel below the new higher side frames, pretty happy with the results, I used putty on all the seams and it looks like they are gone, need to add the panel to the other side then prime it and see how all the seam filling went :D

    you can see here below the window frames where the seam line for the 2 halves is as well as the seam from the window raising piece was added, I filed down the old panel below it as best I could with sanding sticks which was a tricky because of the curved surface, but it will be covered up with a panel so I wasn't too concerned with making it smooth, just recessed so the new panel doesn't stick out further than the ones around it.
    cp06.jpg


    some other shots of the window framing from different angles, its a bit too thick but I can live with it, I REALLY didnt want to rip it all off and go with thinner framing, and if I really don't like the final look I can always do it later as nothing is dependent on them structurally.
    cpo08.jpg cp05.jpg cp02.jpg


    The final starboard side with added panel and notching to the panel below. I'm happy with this turned out, I really wasn't sure how I was gonna do all this when I originally cut the panels out, and I think once primed it will look really nice. I;m much happier with this final look than the original cast part. All the rings and panels don't resolve the same as they do on the original model it would take WAY more reworking than I'm willing to do but this "feels" much closer to me and I will do a few little things once I permenantly attach the cone to the tube.
    cp01.jpg 00005.jpg

    -on a side note when looking at the 32" studio model pics, since it wasn't pulled from a mold it has that "Built look" which I really like, some of the little panels aren't glued down on all the edges so an edge might be lifted a bit with some under cuts here and there. I really just think it makes a model like this which isn't supposed to be factory perfect that much more convincing, so I will plan to do a bit of that here and there on purpose so this has some of that hand built feel to it in the right places.
     
  12. Zenwalker

    Zenwalker Sr Member

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    Great job there!

    I am too lazy. I think I will just buy an aftermarket canopy from shapeways.

    I think they are pretty accurate.
     
  13. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah the Shapeways cone looks great, I would have bought it but trying to learn to scratch build and this seemed like a nice part to practice with.
     
  14. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    re sculpted the cockput tube blasting with some milliput, didn't really like the crater looking ones, this feels closer to the studio model detail to me and looks a bit more like a blast bolt ripped into the hull, will probably round some of the edges in so its not as crisp around the outside and looks more line bent in metal when I sand it down and blend it in.

    tubeBlast02.jpg tubeBlast03.jpg
     
  15. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finished up the cockpit window framing and new raised panels!

    0018.jpg 0012.jpg 0011.jpg

    Also started working down the cockpit tube adding some of the plating notches missed in the original piece, you can see a before and after here with the added/improved side panels as well...I photoshoped out the tube seam to get a better idea of how the final piece will look since we cant glue it up just yet!
    BeforeNAfter.jpg
    0013.jpg

    Ref image i'm using for this area :D
    IMG_3548.PNG


    started playing with some of the Metalizer paints for the interior as well, buffs out to a nice reflective surface.
    Sprays on dull like this
    0016.jpg

    Buffs out with a soft cotton cloth to this, going to look really cool reflecting all the lighting I plan on doing in here!
    0015.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015
  16. Zenwalker

    Zenwalker Sr Member

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    How did you add the notches?

    Dremel?
     
  17. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  18. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Fun with Lights! Tried a couple different things out

    Fiber with Mushroomed tips (holding a lighter to the end of the fiber to flare it out so it doesn't slip through the hole)
    works okay, but hard to keep the shape and size consistent as you can see here looks like holes are miss aligned but its due to the randomness of the flare at the end...
    FullSizeRender(3).jpg

    just keeping the tip of the fiber flush with the surface and gluing it in so it doesn't fall out. This seems to work the best so far IMNO (lol a new one In My Novice Option!)
    but its clear you get nice clean round lights and they would all line up nicely!
    FullSizeRender.jpg FullSizeRender(1).jpg

    This is by far the easiest method, using clear plastic parts ( this Nav Computer from Shapways) just paint/prime the model and scrape the paint off and place an LED light behind it, this also allows for square and other non round light shapes which is usefull. I think mixing these 2 will produce great results!
    FullSizeRender(2).jpg
    Using some Clear Tamiya paint it was really easy to add color to the lights...
    FullSizeRender(4).jpg


    -Kris
     
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  19. MKWJTC

    MKWJTC Active Member

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    Nice.
    Which of the methods will be easiest as for hiding the cables (or the fibers) in walls?
     
  20. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No idea! This is my first time for all of this, what I hope is to be able to run really long fiber that is bundled together in color groups via heat shrink tubing and find a way to run it behind/under stuff and out the bottom of the ship through a hollow display tube/mount that way I can feed it through the bottom of the display case I want to build and access/service all the labeled Fiber bundles from underneath( I plan on using clear fiber so I can adjust/change the color via the LEDs I use to light them with), THATS a lot of "hope to" though haha gotta kinda feel it out as I go since I'm sure this won't go according to plan-

    For instance I'm really counting on a hollow tube mounting this from below like the SS model-no idea if that will be possible haha
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2015
  21. MKWJTC

    MKWJTC Active Member

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    Good luck. Lots of hahas there. That's also good :)
     
  22. Usagi Pilgrim

    Usagi Pilgrim Sr Member

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    Looks great, but I did want to comment on your first post. You said you added some things that were missing?

    I know that there are a lot of the greeblies that are coming later. Kind of like on the cockpit tube, we get the tube, then all the external pipes in a later issue. Just wanted to mention it in case you weren't aware.

    Keep up the great work.
     
  23. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    yeah for sure, its was apparant though that those particular details wouldnt be added later though because they were already there, just kinda poorly done, or in case of the little missing square panels it seems clear that some were just overlooked, it would make no sense to mold some and have others be added later to the same flat area, you can usuallytell when a piece is missing and will be later added like on the turret walls, there are registers for where the piece will later attach to.

    like these tabs here will have some pieces that glue in, especially if you look at the real model there are really specific parts that go there. lol I assume at least! but I know what happes when I do that hehe
    Missing pieces.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2015
  24. Apophis

    Apophis Sr Member

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    nice job!
     
  25. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Some shots of the final cockpit primed and test fit!
    cockPitFinal01.jpg cockPitFinal02.jpg
     
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  26. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Started working on the main hold interior.

    rebuilt the ring to be a bit more at the proper scale and also be a bit more accurate to the set design. Built up the ring edge with a couple styrene strips to give it some more depth and detail then added a bunch of I-Beams for the support details, feels more accurate to the detail scale of the actual set than the supplied piece which was too bulky and thick looking.

    Also started cutting out some recesses in wall to add more accurate detailing and depth.

    hold 02.jpg hold 01.jpg


    Added in the padding and gave the wall a coat of the metalizer paint and started selectively buffing areas to get more metalic highlights while leaving the corners un buffed for a nice grime build up look.

    dsadgs.jpg IMG_4208.JPG


    Started playing around with lighting just for fun, taking a few LEDs and just having fun with liighting designs, not very falcon looking, but cool and fun non the less! Fun playing with Light and shadow, can't wait to get all the Fiber Optic and LED lighting hooked up!

    hold 03.jpg IMG_4162.JPG esear.jpg holdWall03.jpg
     
  27. JPCOdessa70

    JPCOdessa70 Active Member

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    Ktaytor, very precise and fine build skills there!

    Are you going to put small wires inside those Ring Edges?

    In the studio set there are wires there? Or are you leaving this as is.
     

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  28. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!
    Yeah I'm going to figure out something that will look good at scale, unfortunately I didn't drill holes in each of the I-beams to pass wires though so I have 2 options make wires and cut them into little 1/8 segments and glue them in between the beams..... or.....rip them out and re-do it.....gonna test the first option out and see if it looks okay or not, I can see it working if I do it right, basically make one big clump of wires and glue them all up then cut that up into little pieces and fit each segment between each space so all the braid, color pattern looks contiguous.

    I was over anxious to see how it looked and completely ignored this obvious design problem, I get like that, from time to time :>
     
  29. CRphoto

    CRphoto New Member

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    Extremely nice work. Your attention to detail and scratch building skills are enjoyable to watch. Thank you for posting and please continue to do so.
     
  30. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks CRphoto! It's definatley a new addiction for sure, I usually do computer modeling so actually doing practical modeling is a really fun departure from that world but with the same goals and familiarity, cant wait till I can just 3d print stuff at my desk!! soooooooooon!!!!

    Kris
     
  31. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Worked a bit more on the interior, built out some detail on the wall behind the nav computer the part came as just a flat wall with nothing on it, so cut a little window out for some of the recessed detail and added all the styrene trim detail, tried to be as accurate as I could with the set but this wall is proportionally shorter than the actual set wall was so I could only cram so much of it on there. Hit it with some Titanium Metalizer righ out of the rattle can, buffed some areas left parts intentionally matt for residue build up look, and then just put a quick black wash over it. Will come back and add some more subtle color work to help unify it all together once all the walls are up and I can hit it all at once. There is an overhang panel that comes down from the top of this wall that the hose goes up into but going to wait until I have it in the final model so I can see how much room is up there before adding it or any other ceiling level details.

    aldjfa.jpg 0006.jpg 0007.jpg
     

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  32. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Also started on the floor grating, just took some photo etch and glued it down, considered replacing the enitre floor but there are big holes for screws in the bottom for attaching this to the ship that I didnt want to loose or have to reproduce. cut out the access panels and added some trim. Going to continue to build out the pit there with as much detail/lighting as I can fit down there, kinda need to see how it attaches to the ship first to know how much room ill have for any sub-flooring.

    Used Tony's 3d prints from Shapeways for the grill covers, they are very nice and crisply detailed, as much as the PE which is amazing for 3d printing at this scale...
    http://www.shapeways.com/product/6S...-grille?li=search-results-1&optionId=55988259

    Trying to do as much scratch build as I can but wasnt up to teh challenge for that pattern in the grill covers, big thanks to Tony for designing such a great and accurate part!

    PE link
    http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/etched-brass-bpc-sci-fi-decking.html

    adfdafdd.JPG FullSizeRender055.jpg

    Trying to decide how to do the paneling around the grates now, its kinda tricky to get looking right at this scale, I don't want to just float styrene strips on top of the flooring unless I can find some thin enough to not look like big bulky strips glued down...anyone know of a place that does custom PE I could just design them as one big overlay and the PE is thin enough to not mess the scale up, that hatch trim is a bit too thick at the moment, gonna take a flat sanding block and take them down just a bit!
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2015
  33. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Repainted the seating as well :)

    painted Seats.jpg
     
  34. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Got some base paint on the flooring, ended up building up the front part as well so it would be sligtly higher than the layered on PE grating. Painted it with various shades of metalizers and buffed them down. Added a pretty heavy black wash and mottled it with a q-tip to get some of the grime looking effects. So far so good, need to clean up some of the glue seep though, or paint it up to look like grime build up or something :) plan on adding some of the pit to the uncovered hatch, need to see how much clearance there is with the bottom of the ship hull, I want to extend the front of the room as well but again not sure how much space inside the model there is, I need to check the BP and see.

    FullSizeRender2050.jpg IMG_4874545.JPG FullSizeRender005.jpg
     
  35. Hope4Sun

    Hope4Sun Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great work, loving the panels on the docking ports, could you kindly let us know the mesurements of the square rod and half circle rod you used to add the ribs on the panels and the ribs on the extra detailing? Keep us updated as the falcon threads are getting very interesting :cool
     
  36. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! Yeah I used 1/8 (#274) I beam for the ribbing around the entry way ring with a .020x.156 (#127) strip on the outside edge.
    hold 01.jpg



    most of these vertical strips on the adjacent wall (behind the nav computer) were done with .01x.030" (#101) and .015x.080(#114)
    aldjfa.jpg

    Hope that helps!

    Kris
     
  37. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Built up some beefier pipes for the back wall (.5" plastic styrene tubing) going to drill out holes in the walls and feed them though.
    FullSizeRender(7).jpg FullSizeRender(8).jpg
     

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  38. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Detailed out the area around the game table and bunk, should look cool, once I get it attached to the floor/wall I will add a few more pipes around it to help seat it into the area better.

    IMG_4976.JPG FullSizeRender(5).jpg IMG_4981.JPG FullSizeRender(6).jpg
     
  39. Hope4Sun

    Hope4Sun Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My first build - DeAgostini ESB Falcon!

    Thanks for prompt reply Kris, these were the parts I had in mind, the ribs on the extra detailing (are they half rounds) and the square rod for the ribs on the hull plates above, I assume backed onto the 0.2 like the plating :) (sorry to be a Pain, just been measuring up and really struggling to find just the right look and yours from the pics look spot on :thumbsup

    thanks
     
  40. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My first build - DeAgostini ESB Falcon!

    Oh okay yeah ( I know what you mean it took several trips so the hobby store to find the right ones!) You are correct the plating is .2 and those are half rounds on the detailing with the hole in it. I will have to check tonight when I get home and see what the sizes are. ( although I did hear that the kit in the Japanese release has this issue of the side hull plating resolved so we MAY be getting those pieces as updates in the future not sure-but wanted to make sure you heard about that. I also noitced that the bottom piece that matches this top pieces the issue has been resolved and looks great, so they can definatley mold and cast these pieces correctly now, sooo fingers crossed that they re issue the original top piece!

    If you scroll down you can see the hull plating on the new bottom piece, looks great!
    http://forum.buildmillenniumfalcon.com/forums/topic/the-millennium-falcon-build-diary-issue-24/
     
  41. Hope4Sun

    Hope4Sun Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Many thanks again Kris and for the heads up on the potential new parts, been trawling their forums so will keep my eyes peeled, thoug was looking forward to so scratch building lol oh well got 3 finemolds falcons to abuse first. Keep up the great work!
     
  42. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Started on some of the hallway panels, scratch built some panel/instrument detail into the corner piece, added some test Fiber in, gonna paint these with some glass paint once I get the final optics installed, lots of fun working on all the hallway stuff!

    lights04.jpg IMG_5459.JPG lights02.jpg lights01.jpg
     
  43. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Did a test fit with some EL Tape for the cockpit, going to work out really well! cant wait to get it all lit up in here!

    elTape01.JPG elTape02.JPG
     
  44. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Did some lighting for the bunk, added a fiber light into the back of it, and scratch built the little double ended tube light that attaches over the seats, using a small SMD light for it, the thin styrene works great as a light diffuser!

    gonna add some small red optics lights to the side where all the wires/detailing was added, then some small optic lights around the back of the cushions where all the control stuff is next, then finally optics for the chess table and this little area should be done!-

    couchLight03.jpg couchLight05.jpg couchLight02.jpg couchLight04.jpg couchLight01.jpg refImage.jpg
     
    Vacformedhero likes this.
  45. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Added some oPtics to the end of the bunk, almost done now, need to add back some of the hoses I modeled also want to add some small lights to the control panel behind the top of the seats and that should wrap this piece up!

    bunk06.JPG bunk05.JPG
     
  46. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here is a prototype for the corridor floor lighting I want to do, using a strip of EL tape, will cut it down the middle for final result and use the one EL strand of tape for both sides! gonna scratch build the floor ontop of the EL tape, prolly use the manufactured floor to build right on top of since it screws into the hall really well, its really thick so plent of room to sand the top down so my new floor I build ontop will be the same height as supplied part. Really excited about this part!

    corFloorLight02.jpg IMG_5586.JPG corFloorLight01.jpg
     

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  47. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Padawan311 and Aegis159 like this.
  48. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  49. Vacformedhero

    Vacformedhero Sr Member

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    top class, you cannot tell the scale , lighting is brilliant
     
  50. Ktaylor

    Ktaylor Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! yeah that is one of the things I'm really trying to focus on with this is getting all the lighting to feel close to set lighting, lots of fun!
     

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