My ESB DL44 project

[Chingon]

I'm looking to finish my ESB DL44 and since this will be my first time painting a prop, just wondering what other more experienced prop builders recommend. Here's a pic of the buildup so far

Since I didn't have the tools or the skills, I shipped off my parts to a board member and had all the hard work done for me. I figured I could tackle the job of painting it myself. I was thinking of doing a pristine paint job first, then if I wasn't happy with that I'd add some weathering after.

What sort of paint do most people use for painting blasters? I'm just not sure if I should go with a flat black or maybe a semi gloss? Should I invest in an airbrush/compressor setup or will spray cans do?

Any tips/suggestions would be most appreciated.

 

[Hirohawa]

Auto Primer or self etching primer followed by either Krylon or Duplicolor Black. Personally I think semi-gloss is better has a more metal gun feel to it.

I have also used, based on suggestions here, Krylon BBQ grill black that has a nice semi gloss sheen to it. I used that on an E-11 build very nice resluts.

Another route you might consider is the Cold blue chemical treatment onto the raw metal. To give the mauser a "Blued" finish. Casey Birchwood makes these products - Some members here have used it on mausers with great results.

Any more pics of that Flash Hider?

 

[superjedi]

Lookin' nice so far!
Like Hirohawa mentioned, I've also used either Krylon or Rustoleum "high heat" black. Gives a very durable finish.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

For the Denix mausers I'd make sure the pins are all filled in. You'll have to knock each side out, then trim off about 1/16" with a set of wire cutters, or a dremel.

I liked to etch in the mag. plate to the underside of mine with an old awl to further accurize (is that a word?) it.

Of course sanding off the Denix logo is a must.

I have a real replacement brass/steel estuschon for the grips. You would only need to drill out the center section where the current screws go so that the authentic peice could pass through it as per an original Mauser. PM me if you're interested.

Moving on to paint, I like the Rustoleum satin best. Once the top coat is finally dry I used Model Master metalizer paints to futher weather the finish more towards a real Mauser.I finally hand chip my marks after drawing the placement lightly with a pencil.

BTW, all of these can be done with a spray can and the Model Master paints can be bought at any Model Train/ Hobby store.

Be sure and post finished pics!

Steve

 

[glim999]

I've had a lot of sucess with flat black followed by a coat of black leather dye (liquid shoe polish is the same stuff) It gives it a rich, oily look

 

[Chingon]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, guys.

Any more pics of that Flash Hider?

Not at the moment, but I could take some if you want. Its the one BlastTech has for sale on his site.

 

[superjedi]

I've had a lot of sucess with flat black followed by a coat of black leather dye (liquid shoe polish is the same stuff) It gives it a rich, oily look

Really? Huh. . . hadn't heard that one before.
I assume you wipe it down some after application. But after that, does it tend to come off with handling?

 

[wuher da brewer]

I'm one of those who has had good results with Aluminum Black.

Use your Dremel polishing wheel to get the easily exposed pins smoothed flush with the gun body. Use the Dremel heavy duty cutting wheel in the grooves to get those pins.

 

[Hirohawa]

I'm one of those who has had good results with Aluminum Black.

Use your Dremel polishing wheel to get the easily exposed pins smoothed flush with the gun body. Use the Dremel heavy duty cutting wheel in the grooves to get those pins.

Looks great! I like this look more than the rattle can approach as it looks more like a real Mauser. Is that the Casey Birchwood ALuma Black or another brand?

 

[glim999]

Really? Huh. . . hadn't heard that one before.
I assume you wipe it down some after application. But after that, does it tend to come off with handling?

Yeah, I wipe the excess off with a rag. Once it dries it's pretty tough. Haven't had it rub off or anything. You gotta use flat paint though. It'll rub right off of anything else.

 

[Ham Solo]

I'm a big fan of Krylon Semi-Flat Black. I've used it for years. In fact, I think Cliff got me started on it. :lol

 

[Wakal]

I'm with Ham...the Krylon semi-flat black usually turns out pretty well.

Nice buildup :cool




Alex

 

[wuher da brewer]

Hirohawa,

Yep its the Birchwood Casey. It leaves a tiny bit of funky white residue, but I wash the blaster with a mild detergent after treating it. Let it dry and then rub it down with a rag that has a tiny amount of gun oil or 3-in-1 oil on it.

 

[philip7]

I'm one of those who has had good results with Aluminum Black.

Use your Dremel polishing wheel to get the easily exposed pins smoothed flush with the gun body. Use the Dremel heavy duty cutting wheel in the grooves to get those pins.

out of intrest how long is the scope plz ?

 

[Lichtbringer]

out of intrest how long is the scope plz ?

I assume it´s the standard M19, that is 10,7 cm.

 

[Clutch]

Dayum, I thought Chingon was back!