My DL-44 Builds. Two(!!) MGC's and a Field Marshall Now! GK, Hoth, ANH Hero, OH MY!!!

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NathanM

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A long day of scrubbing and soaking, scrubbing and soaking, scrubbing and soaking...

But worth it in the end. Some of the parkerizing was not present I think but now it'll soak in the oil and maybe another layer applied tomorrow too. Looks great!

Screen Shot 2021-03-28 at 7.09.43 PM.png
 

NathanM

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Here's the close-up photos of the finish as promised:
IMG_9844.JPG IMG_9845.JPG IMG_9846.JPG IMG_9847.JPG IMG_9848.JPG IMG_9849.JPG IMG_9850.JPG IMG_9851.JPG IMG_9852.JPG
I'm officially back to being torn on the finish. The wear is heavy and the color is almost sickly. Also the trigger shows some minor corrosion as well as molding marks in various places on the body of the gun so it may be worth sanding. There's some sort of weird red wax-like flakes that need cleaning off. I'm thinking if I do refinish it, maybe it's just the lower that needs refinishing with cold bluing.

IMG_9853.JPG

I also need to figure out replacement grips. Is there any option for wooden handgrips for the MGC? The handgrips on the left are ones I have for an eventual ANH hero build I plan on doing with the Field Marshall setup for reference. They are similarly sized but don't quite fit correctly.

More to come!
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
beautiful flash hider! I'm excited for you on this build.

My recommendation for this MGC is to start light, to see what you're working with. Maybe a toothbrush and a paste of baking soda and Dawn dish soap, 0000 Steel wool buffing or a light/quick polish with Brasso or something. Test in small areas, or the inside of the magazine plate to see if it removes the finish, I don't think they will.

Maybe you'll get rid of a layer of corrosion or gunk and see what color the metal is without other stuff in the way? It does look like the lower frame took a heavy beating...

I also have a syringe of this red gel gun grease that I squirted around the bolt and action inside since I basically rubbed off the old grease they used when i disassembled and cleaned my gold ones
 

NathanM

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There was definitely an oily substance on the exterior and in the action when I first received it. I'll be lubing the interiors once I start the process on it (with the Hoppe's 9) but yes, thanks for the advice to go slow and see what minor cleaning does to it. I didn't actually consider that the layer of grime may be concealing the more proper finish.
 

NathanM

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Finish was too grody. I tried the baking soda paste treatment but the sickly green color was caked on.

CD95B845-EE7C-42BB-8AA9-AF4A9E60E335.jpeg

I the opted to do a wet sand. It worked great

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Then I got to the Perma Blue. This is with 2 Coats and buffed in between.

E413C61B-4DBE-406E-804E-5CB49996F0FA.jpeg 6B65A653-EF58-476E-BFC6-FC432ACECA80.jpeg

SO much better!
 

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NathanM

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Added a 3rd coat and I'm not sure if I'll do another one. Here it is as it stands with the untouched upper.

IMG_9862.jpg

The shade is getting there but I don't think it'll ever be quite as dark with just bluing. Gonna tackle the upper tomorrow and the various small bit's that show on the exterior. Then on to degreasing the innners and putting it back together and relubing.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Oh man that looks great! Nice work on the sanding, my god it's like that rough finish was never there.

Would you have more luck with Aluminum Black or something? PermaBlue is more for steel
 

NathanM

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Oh man that looks great! Nice work on the sanding, my god it's like that rough finish was never there.

Would you have more luck with Aluminum Black or something? PermaBlue is more for steel
I considered using my Aluminum Black but was liking the finish with the Perma Blue. I did use Renaissance Wax on the finish to coat it and that darkened it up some. Maybe I'll try the upper with the Aluminum Black to see how it turns out and compare and adjust if needed. Would the Aluminum Black result in a darker finish due to the alloy?
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yea, AB is very good at darkening things that aren't steel within 2 applications. I remembering using Permablue on an Obi Wan MK1 grenade body, and it did a beautiful job, AB on the neck

Looking great dude! (y)you've saved this mauser
 

NathanM

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Did quite a bit today.

Started by filing just the front barrel sight off.

IMG_9863.JPG IMG_9864.JPG

Because it's a shorter barrel version, I figured the sight was a safe place to start.

With that in mind, in the photo Scottjua has, I have the same barrel seam at the base of it by the upper receiver. Does anyone know the distance from that line to where the flash hider sits?

Screen Shot 2021-03-30 at 5.13.54 PM.png


Based on my rough comparison maybe 2.5"? That sound right?
 
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NathanM

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Kind of on hold until my. Solo's Hold heat sink is shipped. I can't really lay out anything else as that needs to fit first.

I'm struggling with a plug adapter for the M9 hider. I thought maybe some epoxied and stacked nylon washers sanded and drilled out to size would be good but they are to brittle to do anything with.

I think I need a drill press for that maybe and even for drilling the scope mount holes. I'm scared to attempt them free hand.

We'll see.
 

eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
hey,
so here is how I do my adapters for the M9. this is just one way to do it, lots of way to do but since you mention you would need a drill press and everything, I did everything by hand here, so maybe that can help :)

I use a small tube and a sleeve of thin aluminium that I curved around the barrel. It depends on the size of tubing you have, if you have one with a better fit, you might need just that.
DSC01835.jpg

Then I file the inside of the tube a bit with a round file until it fit the barrel at the position I want:
DSC01836.jpg

DSC01837.jpg


then, you put the tube, and then the sleeve and flash hider progressively until it fits tightly:
DSC01838.jpg

DSC01840.jpg


pretty quick and easy and no crazy tools involved :)
I hope this helps
 

eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
regarding the holes in the body, I did them freehand with just a small tool for alignment, visible in the top left here:
DSC01842.jpg


I then threaded the holes as it's a bit difficult to fit a nut inside the gun, because of the mechanism in the back.

I'm sure some people also use epoxy or similar glues to hold the scope mounts too. if you are not confortable with the holes and threading. :)
 

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