chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Recently did some remodeling on my Helsoldt design..

The oval head screw I can’t find short enough so I did two designs. This one is similar to how I attach my scope wheel on my old design. 4 screws in total. 2 to hold the base to the scope and 2 more to hold the wheel itself on. I offset the top two screws so cosmetically they sit how they do on the film prop itself..
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
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This next design is what I really wanted to accomplish. It uses 5 screws and is more in line to how this wheel actually attaches to a Hensoldt scope itself. 2 attach the base to the scope (same as the previous post) but here I use 1 screw to hold the wheel to the base and 2 more to attach the top to the wheel itself. So the top two screws spin with the wheel and are not stationary like in the previous post.

BUT I have to cut those two screws so they are short enough. From what Ive gathered they don't sell 2-56 oval slotted screws this short?
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I also printed these parts up in MJF to see how they would come out. U lose a lot of details in the numbers and knurling. So the wheel part I wouldn’t use in MJF but the base and top works well enough (probably lose the 1961 though once painted)..
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
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Finally getting around to reworking my TFA parts. The mount is coming along nicely. It’s very, very similar to the mount that MR used for their original SW:ANH replica build but it’s not exactly the same. Subtle differences in some specific details and it’s those details I was able to add to my previous design..

These first two are not the actual filming prop but the mounts are the same…
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This here is the actual film prop I believe..
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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
nice work! does the filming prop's scope have an extra piece that comes off the front? The poster shot looks like just the end of a tube and I see an extra groove on all the other shots

Also not familiar with 3D software, why all the lines on a flat bar (the mount)? Looks spot on :)
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks! No I don’t think it comes off. It’s cosmetic I believe mostly. It’s on the poster as well but it’s just not fully visible there is all. Those lines on the rail are only because I imported my old mount rail STL file as I didn’t need to rework it at all. It’s just how the software converts it. It’s flat though.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It's been some time since I looked at this blaster in any detail. I forgot that, instead of machining the flats of the shoulder like the OT gun to blend in the bull barrel, they just stuck a tube as far as it would go on the unaltered barrel.
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Gotchya! thd9791 but it’s not quite as simple as that. Once you really start breaking down these builds the details really emerge. The bottom is actually flat and it has a grove where the Mauser meats the BB. Now if you were talking SOLO:ASWS story then ya it’s basically a tube but TFA isn’t that basic..

Like I mentioned it’s similar to the OG MR but it’s not a simple duplication of it..
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Finally got some of my new designs in. The Merr-Sonn and some of my reworked Hero files as well. Initial thoughts is it’s strange seeing the ANH mount upright off center at first. I also think JawsTec recycles material more often that Shapeways which can lead to more warping and more “pitted” prints. The pitted isn’t such an issue as primer will take care of that but I think that’s why Shapeways is king (and 2/3x as much in price though). For the life of me I don’t understand how two companies using technically the exact same printer can have consistently different print qualities.

The only warping issue is the the ANH rail. Probably can’t see it in these photos but it’s subtly there. To be fair to JawsTec it’s not common and they have always resolved these type of issues once brought to there attention..
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I’ll have to modify some parts but my first impressions is I LOVE how the MS side (Reades) greeblies came out and how the designed fit works. They attach perfectly without using any glue at all. Like a press fit and they stay on perfectly. My CB cable print test was a little to thick for it to be totally bendable but that can be resolved by simply hollowing it out more I believe..
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Now onto the fun stuff! The pictures. Start with the MS and then move onto the HERO.

First here are some real world parts I recreated..
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And here is the inside of the side Reade Greeblies so one can get an idea of the press fit I was mentioning..
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Now the build itself. This is the first time I have ever seen a MS build in person. I’ve never been a huge fan of this blaster so I wasn’t to driven to create one but now that I can do my own CAD work.. it would only cost me time and it’s also great learning curve as well. Like all these blaster builds once in hand it definitely has its charm and has grown on me..
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here’s the ANH Hero. You can see the oil from the denix being absorbed into the hammer which is kind of funny. They oil the heck out of these replicas. I also tried something with the antenna greeblies and how I attach them to the BB. Added a peg and it works pretty well. This way one can easily sub in either of the two antenna greeblies (full or broken) if desired..
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Found a good CB cable for this Merr-Sonn..
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I actually bought a couple different versions and this one that’s on the blaster is not as accurate as the above but it’s thinner and easier to hid behind the Mauser..
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OdiWan72

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Awesome work!

What material do you print with? I´ve never seen such a "coarse" material...even Shapeway´s standard Nylon (?) seems to be more smooth.
 

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