My Adventures in 3D Printing

[masterjedi322]

A fellow maker asked for help with a large resin print, so I offered up my Sonic Mega 8K…

Only the 3rd print (not including the test file) - 6800 layers and estimated to take ~44 hours.

May the 3D printing gods be with me…

Sean

 

[TazMan2000]

Keep your fingers crossed for two days!

TazMan2000

 

[Iskelderon]

Just lost an 18 hour resin print because I used hollow techniques where I should've used solid results, so I know that feeling.

 

[masterjedi322]

32 hours in. 12 to go…

Sean

 

[masterjedi322]

Finé

Pretty impressed with the Mega 8K so far. This was a custom mix of 50% Elegoo’s ABS-like resin (which I’ve never used before) and Siraya Tech’s Tenacious resin. I had to customize the exposure settings, but it seemed to work well.

I also just received some of Phrozen’s 8K resin, so I’m going to find a detailed figure to print out to really test the details.

Sean

 

[Bengrim09]

Finé

View attachment 1540939

Pretty impressed with the Mega 8K so far. This was a custom mix of 50% Elegoo’s ABS-like resin (which I’ve never used before) and Siraya Tech’s Tenacious resin. I had to customize the exposure settings, but it seemed to work well.

I also just received some of Phrozen’s 8K resin, so I’m going to find a detailed figure to print out to really test the details.

Sean

How was the flexibility of your print ?
50/50 with tenacious seems a lot
I usually use 80 abs like to 20 tenacious and have an acceptable finish on my models
Never anything that long so I’m curious before I do some longer prints

 

[masterjedi322]

How was the flexibility of your print ?
50/50 with tenacious seems a lot
I usually use 80 abs like to 20 tenacious and have an acceptable finish on my models
Never anything that long so I’m curious before I do some longer prints

Here’s a video to give you an idea. I agree that 50/50 is a lot, but the customer was concerned about the fork being damaged through handling, wearing at cons, etc.

Given the piece is solid and relatively thick, I wanted to ensure the flexibility was there.

Sean

 

[masterjedi322]

Printing some Cad Bane blasters…

While I’ve had relatively good luck with this printer so far, this print is highlighting that I have some tweaking to do. Many of the edges near the supported surfaces have some rounded corners, which will need filling during assembly. Need to adjust some exposure settings…

Sean

 

[Godspeed]

YIKES. I have a tiny voxelab proxima that has been giving me trouble with the handle of a pistol from titanfall over the past day-- the anxiety I would have with a printer that large.... Cant decide if the convenience would outweigh my worries of all of that resin leaking through a punctured FEP haha.

 

[masterjedi322]

One issue I’ve been having with both my resin printers is the supported surfaces tend to have soft/rounded edges when printed.

Here on the Cad Bane blaster, you can see the edges of three different pieces are all dimpled from the supports, but also have rounded edges instead of being flat.

Any thoughts on what may be causing this…?

Sean

 

[Duncanator]

I'd love to hear advice on this too, as I am running into this with my MonoX as well.

 

[xeno]

One issue I’ve been having with both my resin printers is the supported surfaces tend to have soft/rounded edges when printed.

Here on the Cad Bane blaster, you can see the edges of three different pieces are all dimpled from the supports, but also have rounded edges instead of being flat.

Any thoughts on what may be causing this…?

Sean

View attachment 1553528

This is caused by two things,
1- You put that object bottom surface perpendicular to the build-plate, instead at an angle to the buildplate
3- To few supports for the whole surface.
remember when the first layer gets printed, that whole THIN partially cured surface is only supported by the few supports you have placed, and it wobles and flaps about when the buildplate gets lifted and lowered, it is only 0.05 mm thick (or even thinner)

That's why it is advised to put objects at an angle to the buildplate, this gets better support for the layers as it is build up

 

[TazMan2000]

In addition, there is pull force. The resin likes to bond to the FEP. If the supports are thin or the pull force is greater than the strength of the supports, the supports weaken or break.

TazMan2000

 

[Bengrim09]

If you object is solid then the pull force will warp your layers as it’s lifting, angle your object, hollow your object and put vent holes in your object, this cuts down on the pull force, the holes can easily be filled later

 

[masterjedi322]

Thanks for the super helpful tips! I will reorient the pieces and reprint.

Sean

 

[Godspeed]

With how relatively small those pieces are in comparison to the build plate, I would even think you could put them right on the build plate. I dont think there would be enough force to pull them off. Depends on how much you trust your printer though haha.

My printer is currently down. After 2 months, the LCD screen is already on the fritz-- and of course the warranty is already past on it! Gotta bother with getting a new one now. At least they arent super expensive, and replacement is straight forward. Just wish I would have realized it was the screen before spending 2-3 hours troubleshooting why my prints all of a sudden sucked.

 

[masterjedi322]

Thanks! I had considered putting them right on the build plate, but there are some details on that surface that I didn’t think would work without supports.

Sorry to hear about your printer being down! I have 3 printers, 2 of which are currently down and in need of repair. Hoping to find some time soon to get them back up and running.

In the meantime, another commissioned print - parts for a Rocketeer pack printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K in Siraya Tech’s Fast Navy Grey. Love the color!

Pretty happy with how these came out. Some great details on the inside, and the texture on the outside really came out well.

Sean

 

[Bengrim09]

These are tiny and directly to the build plate, got some elephants foot going on but it can be sanded away

 

[Bengrim09]

Thanks! I had considered putting them right on the build plate, but there are some details on that surface that I didn’t think would work without supports.

Sorry to hear about your printer being down! I have 3 printers, 2 of which are currently down and in need of repair. Hoping to find some time soon to get them back up and running.

In the meantime, another commissioned print - parts for a Rocketeer pack printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K in Siraya Tech’s Fast Navy Grey. Love the color!

Pretty happy with how these came out. Some great details on the inside, and the texture on the outside really came out well.

Sean

View attachment 1555796

Oh I need a big printer

 

[ID10T]

I've been away from prop making lately. I've been restoring old stereo gear... Pioneer receivers and turntables by Kenwood and the latest- a real gem from Micro Seiki.

This Micro has a very nice 505X II arm, which uses a silicone oil trough damping system. And, like 99% of them still in use, the paddle that runs in the oil is busted off. But, I have the paddle, and I was able to reverse-engineer it, and that's where we suddenly become relevant- I designed it in Solid Edge and then sliced and printed it. I'm not ready with it yet, but version three I just tonight sliced after a total re-draft today.

I'm also (trying to) run a tapped hole quite deeply through the model so that I can secure it with a 16mm long nylon M2 screw. This should add quite a bit of strength to the assembly and avoid failures again.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow. (I'm also working on another costume and wa surprised to find no threads here on it)