My Adventures in 3D Printing

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masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So the hand plates I printed had some warping, which, I’m guessing, was due to the lack of supports and the high temps at which you need to print ABS.

So I went back and reprinted in a different orientation with supports. Came out pretty good! A few printing goobers, but the 0.1mm layer height really produces some impressive results!

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My Octoprint kit showed up yesterday, so I’ll be working on setting that up today.

Sean
 

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Chris Moliere

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Those are abs? They look pretty good, but I’ve heard that a good way to prevent warping in ABS is by enclosing the printer, that way heat doesn’t escape.
 

masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Those are abs? They look pretty good, but I’ve heard that a good way to prevent warping in ABS is by enclosing the printer, that way heat doesn’t escape.
Yes, ABS.

Thanks for the tip on the enclosure. I haven’t decided where I’m going to keep the printer yet, so I may look into that.

Sean
 

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masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Having completed a few prints in PLA and ABS, I decided to try my hand at PETG. As with the other filaments, I have some adjustments to make, but not bad…

Sean
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Godspeed

New Member
Yes, ABS.

Thanks for the tip on the enclosure. I haven’t decided where I’m going to keep the printer yet, so I may look into that.

Sean
Lots of great DIY options-- one of the most popular is using ikea "lack" tables and plexi. If you do make an enclosure, look into moving your power supply and mainboard outside of the printer so they don't overheat in there.
 

karmajay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Dang wish I hadn't been away from the thread so long! I may have been able to post some helpful comments since I have a FDM printer.

Anyway, I manly print in PLA - I've never had a problem with basic hatchbox pla from amazon.

I've always had great success getting the level as close as possible, then micro stepping the z-offset down through the printers tuning menu.

Preach! Learning you need to adjust the z offset after any initial or calibration check is a hard lesson to learn. I have a prusa - mk3s with the bendable magnetic plate and the z-offset always fixes my adhesion problems. If you have glass hairspray or glue sticks can help also.

I have my support settings dialed in on my Prusa so I can just pull them off by hand like butter!
 

Godspeed

New Member
If you have glass hairspray or glue sticks can help also.
I'm with you there. I just put glue stick on before every print now. Even with the perfect settings, perfect level, perfect z-height, things can go wrong. Build plates wear, temps fluctuate-- glue sticks just make everything better. All I hvae to do now is press start and let it go.

I have been meaning to get silicon spacers to replace the springs-- keep my bed level for longer
 

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TazMan2000

Master Member
I use hairspray on top of a mirror, and I never had any problems with prints sticking to the plate. The cheaper the hairspray the better.
One good thing is that as soon as my print is finished and the bed cools, the print comes off easily. Some prying is necessary to get the part off of a still warm bed. One problem, with hairspray, is also what I've mentioned about the part coming off easily once the bed is cool....if you ever have a power outage, and you don't catch it in time, the bed cools and the print comes off easily, that even a nozzle squirting out PLA can knock it around.

TazMan2000
 

masterjedi322

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
After experimenting with some other filaments, I went back to PLA to print some handles and a drip hanger for the Anycubic Mono X. The handles will be adhered to the sides of the UV covers for both the printer and the wash and cure station. The drip hanger goes on the printer, and is designed to hang the build plate on after printing so the excess resin drips off and back into the vat.

For those interested:
Printers printing parts for printers…isn’t this how Skynet started…?

Sean
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Godspeed

New Member
Picked up an Octoprint from www.th3dstudio.com (who I’d highly recommend!) and have been working through Teaching Tech’s calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Octoprint is so helpful. I highly recommend getting the "exclude region" plug-in

You can mark areas of the build plate you want to stop the printer from proceeding with. So if you have a bunch of items on the build plate and one of them starts to fail, you can mark it in octoprint and it wont print that object further. Stops you from having to reset a print job just because 1 object fails.
 

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TazMan2000

Master Member
Looks like it is turning out ok so far. I've always heard about ABS needing a heated enclosure since cooling stresses the material and causes severe warps.

TazMan2000
 

Godspeed

New Member
Looking good! Ditto what Taz said. ABS is very temperamental when it comes to drafts, probably why you're seeing the brim lift up there. Also, just as a mini PSA, ABS does have some pretty nasty off-gassing. Dont know where its set up in your home, but I would recommend setting it up in a remote room that can be ventilated easily once you're done

If you want to save on time and filament, Ive found that helmets dont usually require supports at the dome. The inside will string, but the outside layer prints fine-- this is one I printed this past weekend with no supports on the dome. Ignore the crazy stringing-- the 4.11 version of Cura changed my retraction settings and I haven't tuned them in again yet, haha:

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