Mugatu Performs Reconstructive Surgery on an OB1 ANH Hales No.3 Mk1

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by mugatu, Apr 29, 2015.

  1. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hello. Thanks for checking this out.
    First off, I need to say thanks to a few people for their help and advice with acquiring some of these pieces and also with their help and advice (some of which I ignored to my own detriment) on what to do with these pieces. These folks are:

    Planettera
    teecrooz
    Edraven99
    ataru72ita
    Romans Empire
    Pukkalemons
    and of course, Master Sym-Cha

    All of your help, in various ways have made this saber what it is so far. Some of that help may not have come directly from you but from me picking up on your advice within threads right here at theRPF. Normally I would just present a finished piece and hide all of my numerous mistakes, but perhaps my mistakes will help others avoid making their own.

    ALSO, this is obviously not finished. I still need to acquire a real booster and balance pipe as well as the D-Ring needing to be attached, but I can't go on with all these pieces spread out like a tornado disaster area on my work table for years waiting to acquire those parts...

    Finally, I have just opened a Photobucket account and am going to attempt using that for this thread, so there could be a lot of reading with no pics. If so, I will edit this later the old way.

    Here is what I have so far completed:

    2C6B0531-A5E1-453A-A7AF-CE7A641DF9B4.jpeg

    FFB89D90-333B-42E6-93AE-587825C48EB6.jpeg

    Here are the original real parts at my disposal:

    B5A65910-FC02-41FB-AEBA-73B41DE415AB.jpeg

    These pieces are from left to right: Graflex Clamp, Armitage Shanks Hand Wheel (center bidet wheel version), Hales No3 Mk1 Rifle Grenade, Texas Instruments Exactra 20 Calculator, vintage Transistors. The clamp looks really good from this side, but you will have a chance to check out its other side later. The AS hand wheel caused some issues which I will go into later as well. The grenade tested my patience, even with great advice from Edraven99 (and I failed that test haha). I have not installed the bubble strip from the calculator yet, nor the transistors as I am trying to figure out the best way to attach them.

    Here are the replica parts that I am using until I secure the final real parts:

    74A51BA7-3CF2-45F9-8AD9-B7255002C771.jpeg

    These pieces are all RomansEmpire parts of various vintages. From left to right they are: Clamp Spacer, Modern Booster Replica, Vintage Booster Replica, a life saving Nut-type of device, Vintage 3-piece Emitter. The clamp spacer may be the most current version... I don't really know as all of these pieces I picked up from Planettera I prefer the look of the Modern Romans Empire Booster, but it doesn't work with my AS bidet wheel (or really, my bidet wheel doesn't work with this booster), which led me to get the black vintage one. The nut-device was actually sent to me with the emitter, but I think the way I ended up using it is how it is supposed to be used. Perhaps someone with experience can correct me here. I opted for the emitter based on how shiny it is. At some point I will be building a super clean all-RomansEmpire OB1 as his parts are really only second to the real thing from what I can tell. I spend about as much time on his website as I do here, just ogling his work and salivating. One day...

    These are the other non-real, non-Romans behind the scenes parts that I have used:

    54E9F153-E03C-4A0F-94E1-1CA0431041D7.jpeg

    2E9E9A6E-0DB3-47A0-BDF5-C21169F58E25.jpeg

    These are: Black Gaffers Tape, 8 Washers, and a 3/8-16 threaded rod. The rod was originally a 12 inch length that I used a rotary tool to cut down to about 10.25" per Romans' recommendation on his site.

    C5DE6F2D-48C3-45F0-B927-B3FCA7BC435F.jpeg

    First I had to figure out how to put the emitter together. Unfortunately, I don't have an image of the three pieces of the emitter because the way I got them to stay together was by covering the shiny emitter parts with a towel and then using pliers to pinch the whole thing together as the inner piece (with the ring of holes) has a circumference a bit larger than the interior section of the outer piece that it sets into. When all else fails, use pressure and/or beat on it. This worked well with the emitter.
    There is also a brass (?) section, very similar to a piece that screws into the real Hales No3 Mk1 grenade, that goes in the middle of the inner chromed (?) emitter piece. The inner chromed emitter piece is held to this brass piece with hex screws. I then screwed my 10.25" threaded rod into this brass piece as seen here:

    73BA1A48-68BE-4956-8155-6FF6020AFABA.jpeg

    Next came the grenade:

    FF99E9A8-24F2-497E-A06D-A9D372A63DAF.jpeg

    That somewhat pointy piece, below the windvane in this image, is the detonator. It normally resides within the brass shaft of the grenade. It is held in place by two pins/screws that allow the detonator to travel a short distance up or down inside the brass shaft. Having spent the last 100 years buried in the French countryside, the screws/pins of the grenade were a bit stubborn about being removed. My detonator did not want to come out. Unfortunately, the threaded rod needs to go through the very same area of the brass shaft.

    Edraven99 was kind enough to answer my questions about the grenade and how to remove this piece. One suggestion was to gently tap the detonator with a screwdriver or something to see if that loosens the pins/screws or even gets them to come out altogether. I followed this advice for several minutes until my impatience got the best of me, at which point I really started banging away on the detonator. You may not know this, but that kind of pointy detonator in the photo, in reality, was actually VERY pointy before I started trying to remove it. This is an example where beating on metal is not necessarily a good thing. All of my banging on the detonator caused the bottom threaded plate (that screws into the grenade's frag body) to warp. Now the brass shaft plate won't screw into the frag body.

    To fix this, I used my rotary tool to rid the brass shaft plate of most of its lower threads. I'm sure this grenade never thought a 100 years ago that it would meet its brutal demise AFTER a world war, across the ocean in the garage of some middle-aged Star Wars fan. Stupid grenade! I taught him!

    Anyways, its passable. The French countryside was also not very kind to the finish of the grenade. And onto the rod it goes:

    8DFEC53B-D8EE-477E-9A91-D81E93F624EE.jpeg

    Next comes the clamp spacer and Graflex clamp. Pretty straight forward. Just line up the holes of the Clamp with the threaded areas that RomansEmpire put into the spacer for his threaded transistors.

    A169F297-943B-4BFE-A09D-41082CD39240.jpeg

    And onto the rod:

    84BCE8D0-8D33-4E50-AC3E-3B4D5D588278.jpeg

    Next comes the booster. I do prefer this more accurate booster, but as I mentioned, it won't work with my AS bidet wheel:

    ED5B6ABE-BE3A-4180-BA3C-F3FE734DD29C.jpeg

    The interior part of my bidet wheel is shaped differently than that of a typical basin-type vintage AS hand wheel. For reference, this image is the underside of the bidet wheel:

    21111BEF-3B40-4E56-B08E-F96D46900E76.jpeg

    This image is the underside of a correct basin-type vintage AS hand wheel:

    EF3BAA07-9648-4FA9-94BF-2CFD7AE4EBF5.jpeg

    SO, this also means that a real booster also will not work with my bidet wheel. I will have to have it machined at some point once a real booster is in hand. As for now, I opted to buy a vintage Romans booster that does not have the side section:

    EB94726C-A3A0-4181-84D0-1497B13F5E1C.jpeg

    It goes on easily enough:

    FE2418C1-F3CC-41FA-9F21-8FE699ED7F30.jpeg

    Now the issue is spacing between the booster and the hand wheel as the vaned "gear" portion of the booster does not sit flush with the bottom of the handwheel. What I did to fake this part for now was to take 8 washers and wrap black gaffers tape around their circumference:

    FD230470-497B-4304-A0E7-81BA0AA04C1F.jpeg

    Romans' vintage booster even had a little circular section cut out of it for these washers to seat in almost perfectly:

    701BB93C-98A7-4D2E-B1CF-4BA2E4E472F0.jpeg

    Next was putting the hand wheel on, which after the test fitting with the washers was no big deal:

    65B637A2-64FB-4B11-841B-4BE10E7B35C3.jpeg

    To secure it all together, I used that amazing nut-device I mentioned from earlier. Again, I thought it went with the emitter, but I think this is much better use of it (if it wasn't actually designed to be used this way):

    D34B725A-F43B-4386-B022-0DC4441FC529.jpeg

    And here it is all together:

    B4C612C7-F520-4075-958C-676498BBBEB1.jpeg

    Here it is with my Luke ESB (now fixed!):

    61747482-BAAA-4675-9412-35A45FF24671.jpeg

    Again, I still have to put the Exactra bubble strip on, as well as the transistors. Can anyone recommend how to attach these vintage transistors?
    I also need to know what size D-Ring to get too, so any help there is appreciated.

    I also want to show you the pommel end of the OB1 as the bidet wheel I am using did not come with a traditional end cap. It was what I have figured out to be a switch that I presume caused the bidet to flush. It would not look right at all. Here is what the OB1 (so far) looks like without any end cap:

    8E1056A5-C0B8-4057-8A95-07D58B8C2896.jpeg

    I could leave it open as I don't believe there are accurate images of what the screen-used OB1 had on the end. Still, I did order some rare earth magnets that cover the hole pretty well:

    3C0CCFDF-73D5-4AE6-BC21-E2CE64AC7D0B.jpeg

    I have also made a custom end cap for it out of one of the magnets and a locket I found on eBay:

    98A1C5C3-4E0B-432C-8BE4-A22B60EBE97D.jpeg

    Not only is it informative, but it bridges the gap between two of my favorite amazing film universes.


    Just kidding.

    Thanks for checking this out.
    Hopefully the images have embedded properly. (They didn't the first time)

    I am serious about the transistors. Any advice is appreciated on my OB1.

    Andy
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2018
  2. KaanE

    KaanE Sr Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Hey bud, pics or GT*O!

    Just kidding.
     
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  3. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Word of advice ... once you uploaded your pictures in photobucket and used the links in threads ... leave them alone ... don't start shuffling them around in special folders later ... since that might affect the pictures and their links, of photo's you've posted, to disappear from said threads :wacko ... don't ask me how I know, okay!

    Chaim
     
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  4. KaanE

    KaanE Sr Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Luke ESB? I think you meant Luke TFA! :lol

    I can0t help myself looking those kind of pictures without wanting to steal them all!
     
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  5. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    You're right KaanE! With that glass eye it's a TFA Andy! :)
     
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  6. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    That looks mighty good mugatu ... I wonder if your Exactra 20 contains the all round bubbles ... the darker see through plastic is usually a hint is does ... and then you maybe in luck and don't have to sand all under the bubbles ... just cut/sand some excess of the sides :

    [​IMG]

    Chaim
     
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  7. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    As for the transistors ... I was just going to bend the 'legs' inside the G R A F L E X cube holes ... and some black gaffer tape should hold them in place ... did you get the metal washers already?

    [​IMG]

    Chaim
     
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  8. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    You guys are right! How did I miss that?!?

    I will need to rectify that shortly. I was moving pieces around prepping for my first nickel-plating experiment and I don't know how I left that glass eye in there! I will fix it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Chaim,
    I do still need to get the washers for the transistors. As far as the Exactra, I guess it's time to crack that puppy open and see what I'm working with here!
     
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  9. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Looing great so far !
     
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  10. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Thanks James Kenobi 1138!
     
  11. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    andy it looks awesome! very exciting thread if i do say so myself! i love the grenade! where the heck did you find that?! arent the grenades the hardest part to get?

    awesome job buddy!
     
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  12. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Fantastic. I really like seeing it come together, especially with the details about the challenges.
    Have to say, that grenade takes this piece to another level. So much character.

    Looking forward to more progress pics.
     
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  13. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Halliwax, thanks for the support! I'm not sure the grenade is the hardest to find, albeit the condition of the grenade is a very large determining factor on the difficulty level. Some members have very clean, symmetrically cut grenades...those, yes, are extremely difficult to find. I'm still not sure if it's harder to find than a booster or a balance pipe, but the super accurate, super clean grenade with the super accurate windvane ring is very difficult to locate and even harder to obtain than say, mine which looks like it's been chewed on by a Rancor for a while.

    Panaflex, thanks man. Yeah I might be coaxed into revealing just what the bottom plate threads on my grenade actually look like now, but it was definitely a challenge. Having proper tools and a proper work area really do go a long way in helping to avoid many self-caused issues. My work bench with the hammering is made of a large flat concrete material. I also park my cars on it.

    I think whenever I do get the real booster, I will in fact need to upgrade to the completely correct hand wheel.

    But there is something charming about the grenade being gnarled up a bit. I don't know that it goes with the chromed emitter so much, but it definitely looks like a Tatooine relic.
     
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  14. matty matt

    matty matt Sr Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Looks fantastic. I love the grenade.
     
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  15. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Thanks, matty matt.
     
  16. JoeG

    JoeG Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    On my Obi saber I decided I liked the idea of mechanically fastening as many parts as possible. No epoxy or anything like that. So, I drilled out the transistors, then found screws that fit inside the hollow transistors. Then, just drill out the holes in the clamp and secure with a nut. I'm using one of Roman's hollow spacers, so that makes it easier. Since you're using a solid spacer which I believe already has threaded holes for replica transistors, you just need to find the appropriate screws and voila!
     
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  17. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thats a really good idea. Probably will make the transistors much more secure that way too. Good advice.
     
  18. Luke the Belter

    Luke the Belter Well-Known Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    It looks really great.
    Considering how hard to find a real balance pipe is...you have all the right to use a replica ;)
    I can't imagine how it feels to posses these real parts obi sabers, especially that your friends will never understand what it means and would probably like a all replica parts saber more :wacko
     
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  19. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Luke the Belter, thanks man. I live close to the USAF museum. They have lots of WWII planes there. I'm hoping they get an RAF loaner some day of a Gloster Meteor, in which case, I'll have to pull some serious Jedi mind trickery! In the mean time, my work table was getting so cluttered that I was afraid I'd misplace something, so I had to get this together now.

    And yeah, my friends wouldn't understand.
     
  20. chizbot

    chizbot Active Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    THD would be able to tell you how to do the trannies (wait, that looks bad...)

    These builds have got me itching for a saber, even though I'm a blaster guy.
     
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  21. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Haha! Maybe we should call them "tranzies"?
     
  22. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    UPDATE on the Exactra 20 Bubble Strip:

    AC72C99E-CC56-4382-B385-D4CD2AD3451B.jpeg

    FA7C4612-B052-4F9F-8B1A-268481BD498A.jpeg

    Does this mean they are the All Round bubbles?

    Also:

    A843CA8C-4469-4E83-8F58-3D4A12578047.jpeg

    Luke ESB and OB1 (in progress)!
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
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  23. KaanE

    KaanE Sr Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    You lucky bastard! You got the one used for the Vader saber! I mean the Exactra!
     
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  24. NeoRutty

    NeoRutty Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    I've said before, I too have the vader one... willing to trade for real exactra of the clear variety...
     
  25. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Looking good Andy! Yes, those seem to be the all round bubbles indeed.
     
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  26. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I swapped out the glass eye for the right button and even swapped out that bad photo for a good one up top! Thanks for keeping me honest, guys.
     
  27. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    This was just posted on facebook in the STAR WARS rare vintage photos group ... taken on a field trip back in 1975 :

    [​IMG]

    Are these all Rolls Royce Derwent Jet-engines?

    Chaim
     
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  28. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430414982.332307.jpg
    These are the two real Exactra bubbles I own.
     
  29. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Indeed mugatu ... those are the all round bubbles as I suspected ... you obly need to trim the sides to make them fit into a G R A F L E X clamp :)

    Chaim
     
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  30. KaanE

    KaanE Sr Member

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    If I were you I would use this on a Vader replica or trade it for a clear one. But that's just my opinion. Also you could buy another Exactra and have one of each for the Vader (you know the Vader is coming).
     
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  31. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    *! I don't know...I've only ever seen them stripped of any outer layers. With them stacked like that, it looks a bit like pod racer engines sitting there. I've got to stop wishing I had a time machine.

    Roy, these are both from a 20? I wonder what the cause was for them to switch not only the bubble frosting but also the PCB boards and what looks like the circuit layout. Man, the 60's and 70's were so awesome. Always blazing new technological trails and no regard for keeping record of things. It must've been great to be a manufacturer back then.
     
  32. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is great news. As you can see from my handiwork, the less precision (and work) required at this point, the better for the prop. Thanks, Chaim.

    That's a good idea. I think Neorutty and I both could use the clear kind then.
    Plus, I think Vader is far off for me. Tracking down an MPP is crazy difficult, and expensive, and I may need that first MPP for another venture...
     
  33. KaanE

    KaanE Sr Member

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    I think I know that venture. Anyway, maybe someone is going to make some accurate MPPs in a near, or no so near, future so who knows.
     
  34. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Let's hope so!
     
  35. roygilsing

    roygilsing Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep, both Exactra 20. Maybe they switched suppliers, or maybe they had multiple production facilities. Who knows. I might have to do a new run on the bubbles; I'm running low. I may consider injection molding this time: to get them as crisp as the real ones.
     
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  36. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    From what I've heard - electronics manufacturing back then was an ever changing scene. The public really didn't care, as long as the numbers lit up on their calculators, so TI tried to race other companies in perfecting and trying new chips, board material, and such, right guys?

    Also, FABULOUS work on these sabers. I see what you mean on the bottom of your grenade. It's in fantastic condition though :)
     
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  37. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks, Tom.
     
  38. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Came back for another look. Great looking lightsaber. How far are you going to go with the weathering?
     
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  39. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks, James Kenobi 1138.

    As I've put this together so far, it has sort of felt to me like this (once totally completed) should be extremely weathered. The finish on the grenade initially was a bit more pock-marked up than I was expecting/hoping for. But now, I think the look of the grenade really is my preference. So, I'm going for this to end up looking like a real relic, to match the grenade.

    I have swapped out the clamp already for another that a previous owner had apparently done some work to. I'll post a pic of that later...somebody did a serious number on the repairs, but I think they actually work for this saber.

    I also widened some washers for my transistors, but I'm not sure the circumference of the washers is small enough. I'll post those photos too, as I really need the expertise of some of you vets here.
     
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  40. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Keep up the good work!
     
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  41. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    i love the vintage jet engine picture! i wonder how much they weigh!! ??
     
  42. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    UPDATE:

    I have taken some washers that I purchased and added them to the vintage transistors that I acquired through member teecrooz. The bore diameter of the washers were just a tad too small so I used my favorite new tool, my Black & Decker rotary tool, and ate up a bit of the inner circumference. It was a tight fit but the transistors went in. Now, my only problem is that when I check out OB1 ANH photos or photos of other members' OB1 sabers, my washers seem to have too large of an outer circumference.

    Before I post the photos of them, I have already attached them to my new and improved (read "worse appearing") clamp. I haven't permanently attached them yet, but just bent the contact leads through the holes in the clamp to secure them temporarily. As such, I don't want to mess with them too much and risk breaking off a lead. I think you will still be able to get the gist of how gnarly this clamp is though.

    Here is the side with the lever.
    C4958507-64B3-4593-8F16-BD5112E813DA.jpeg

    You can see already from this side that there is some major corrosion and flaking of the plating. There is also what appears to be some sort of crap repair that was attempted on the upper hole.

    Turn it a little bit:
    B7E89C60-4BC9-454F-A6AE-7E03DFF127C6.jpeg

    And still more corrosion. From this view you can also see a bit better what I was referring to regarding the washers. Too wide?


    And one more better pic of the best repair part of this clamp:
    DD5B8B7A-18D5-4D7F-A057-EC3885FCF72A.jpeg

    Don't ask me what happened to this clamp. I really don't know. On top of that, I can't even say whether the person that did this did a good job or a completely disastrous job. To be completely honest, I'm not even sure this is a 100% authentic Graflex clamp! But I really like what it does for the "relic" tone I'm giving this OB1.

    As you can also see, the transistors have not really been weathered at all. Once I settle on how I am going to permanently affix them, I will weather them more.

    I really do love how this clamp looks though. I did attempt to clean it up a bit as I was going to use this as a test subject for my nickel plating experiments, but as I got going with removing some of the rust, it dawned on me that this is the most relic-like clamp I've ever seen. And not to worry...I didn't get all of the rust removed:
    73C03D1A-452D-4D58-9080-5AD83B01C3B2.jpeg

    Haha this side is even better:
    421719C8-70AE-4EB1-910E-2E34EFEC7AD5.jpeg


    Finally, I want to show a bit about my Hales No3Mk1. I had quite a bit of difficulty getting the brass section back into the frag body, as mentioned earlier. I sort of gleamed over my process for "fixing" the issue that I had caused on my own by beating the crap out of the grenade in order to remove the detonator. But in the odd chance it may help someone else, I will share my very non-gentle way of massaging a warped brass section into a deteriorating frag body.

    First, let me show you the bottom (the end closest to the pommel on the OB1) section of the frag body. It has some real deterioration:
    561555C5-795E-429A-AEB4-276AE7B75737.jpeg

    Spin it a little:
    AE1EBA56-3464-45B4-8990-EB797E78D0DC.jpeg

    As you can see, the bottom rim of the frag body is quite eaten away. I know there have been some questions regarding how this sits against the clamp/clamp spacer. On the one hand, I am lucky this is made of steel, so once I screw on my end nut-device, it all holds together tightly with no wobble. On the other hand, tiny bits of this are so deteriorated, the steel is a bit brittle where it is extremely worn, so I run the risk of snapping off those little ridges.

    And now, I'll show you the brass section screwed into the frag body (this is the other end of the frag body) just to assure you that superficially, everything comes out okay in the end:
    72DEDF5C-2B60-4940-9698-0BD4F376C596.jpeg

    And here is a profile shot to show how flush it is...probably need to get this down just a hair further:
    6A183075-175D-42F5-99AD-96582780FF33.jpeg


    So, you're probably saying to yourself, "that doesn't look so bad. I thought you said it was really warped." Well, the thing to remember is this is brass and steel, and it doesn't take much warping to make these two not come together. What I had to do was take my trusty rotary tool and grind down about 3/4 of the threads.

    This is what that looks like outside the frag body:
    F2E0792B-B211-4059-A7BF-627D8ED3B1D3.jpeg

    All the way around...:
    9B1D464C-3A56-4561-B4B5-74160B1C380C.jpeg

    It takes a very steady hand to leave those upper two threads alone. Here it is going into the frag body:
    55D7CEA1-6D11-45F1-8FE2-2A8CE26A9582.jpeg

    And there you have it thus far.

    Please do take a look at these next two images and let me know your opinions on these washers. I've tried to give two slightly different angles to show how they look:
    92688B99-4253-4CE5-BE7D-092AC1D89A4E.jpeg

    428CA95D-3B0F-40EB-8184-9FC3309476FF.jpeg

    Too big? Let me know.

    Also, one last thing. I am about to do the deed on this cube ring on the pommel. Does anyone know exactly where about the D-ring hole needs to be drilled? Is it more towards one end of the "cube" than the other?

    Thanks for checking this thread out.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
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  43. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    UPDATE: D-Ring Attachment

    While I am waiting for some piece to arrive to begin my Vader ESB, and some sand paper and black paint to be purchased to continue on my VD Yoda, I figured I would get this D-Ring put onto my OB1. Drilling the hole for a D Ring in an old plastic hand wheel is enough to put the most avid builder/collector in an eternal K-hole of indecision. I understand, too. The hand wheels are rare, very old (so likely fragile), and its not like anyone has a stockpile of them to go to should they royally screw one up. However, with a little planning, a steady hand, and a lot of luck, I have pressed on to get this speedbump behind me.


    TOOLAGE

    First, as always, I donned my trusty safety glasses:
    B747DAD2-A92D-4504-B5AD-BDAD5E3C8197.jpeg

    Yes, those are actually shooting glasses. They also have some glue dried on the lenses...don't really know where that came from. ALWAYS use the safety glasses.

    The other tools that I used were:

    1. a really old period-correct electric hand drill with 1/8” drill bit
    7E527E97-76A3-4822-89A1-0523FEF1AF21.jpeg

    2. a fine-point Sharpie (extra fine will work here just as well)
    48118025-AB6B-41BD-943A-87F8AFE3BD90.jpeg

    3. an X-Acto knife (it must be new; it must be sharp)
    21E1D09E-9B16-427B-862F-4BCC2EC2E5BD.jpeg

    4. and what kind of cockamamie build would this be without my trusty rotary tool?
    F48606B9-A497-4595-BA95-8E0C92DAA172.jpeg

    For this challenge, I used it only for a moment, but with it, I used...
    5. this super pointy bit (whatever you do, do NOT trip and fall and have your eye land on this thing)
    3356CE2D-A5A3-488D-AA56-E244E4C8398E.jpeg

    The first step was to look through the RPF for other builds showing how the D Ring was attached on other OB1 ANH sabers. This proved to be both time-consuming and mostly unfruitful. Again, most people have great reservations about doing this for some reason. I guess I have to wing it (my favorite!).


    PREPARATIONAGE

    The next step then is to see where the hole needs to be drilled in the cube. This was also challenging, but I did remember seeing on the internet a very good example of where the hole is supposed to go: www.romanprops.com/SinkKnobTX

    Roman's photo of the hole location is very helpful for two reasons:

    1. I know Roman does his homework. It is evident in everything he puts out. Thus, I am confident that this is in fact where the hole is supposed to go.
    2. If the hole IS in the wrong spot, I can blame it all on Roman.

    So, I took the Sharpie and made a mark where I estimated my hole matches up with Roman's handwheel's hole:
    443699DC-C5C7-4294-9443-0733A4453EA6.jpeg

    I know what you are thinking...why did I draw such a large dot if I was using a fine point Sharpie? The reason is that very rarely do I touch the tip of the Sharpie for the very first time in exactly the right spot. Once I have the Sharpie on the handwheel, I can sort of correct where the tip is and by making the circle bigger, I know that the center of my pilot hole needs to be in the center of the dot. If you start with a regular fat Sharpie, this "luxury" will not be available to you.


    DOING THE DEED

    It was at this point that my nerves started getting to me... I mean, THIS IS IT... the big moment! So I thought that the wisest thing would be to do a primer for my pilot hole.
    So I took the X-Acto knife and put its razor tip in the center of the Sharpie dot. Then I began rolling it back and forth in between my thumb and finger just to get the pilot hole started:
    51387DC5-E216-4ADB-A1CF-C5BD2FA5AFCC.jpeg

    I wouldn't say I did this for too long, or dug down too far. Just let the weight of the X-Acto do all of the digging. We are only making a pilot for the pilot hole. It doesn't need to be deep.

    Next, I took my rotary tool with that pointed end and put that in the primer hole:
    C3E381D2-88BB-4EEB-949A-EC48F3A41F19.jpeg

    Again, with the pilot hole, I am not digging a giant hole in the cube, but a spot just big enough where I feel certain the drill bit on the drill won't come flying out once I really start going on it.

    Next came the drill with the 1/8" drill bit:
    CC888DC8-7087-40B6-A30F-E23A638A7C3F.jpeg

    The great thing about using this really old hand drill is that the bit only rotates as fast as you want it to. If you barely pull the trigger, the drill bit/chuck rotates very slowly; if you pull the trigger all the way, it drills like you think a drill will. In the photo above, I was barely pulling the trigger and that plastic came out of the hole in a rapid fashion. It is good to not have to drill to fast.

    An important note when drilling with a hand drill as opposed to using a drill press: You MUST check, doublecheck, and recheck about 50 times while drilling to insure that all of your axis' are true. You don't want to be coming in crooked on this thing.

    Ahhhh, complete penetration!
    9D22AE42-09A8-4BFE-A6AB-247E5155845E.jpeg

    Here is the entrance hole:
    0A28E51D-852B-4D0B-8EC0-67DEFE05F9D8.jpeg

    And the exit hole.
    FB8E691C-E7CC-4150-9A37-3BDB999922B8.jpeg


    ONE D RING TO RULE THEM ALL

    For the D-Ring itself, I used two pairs of pliers to bend it open. Normally I would use a rag or something to keep the D Ring from getting scratched by the pliers, but as this is going to be the ultimate weathered and decayed OB1, I just gripped it with the raw pliers and bent it open:
    8CF5F7E9-A6AF-470B-840D-BBBAFF1A14A0.jpeg

    Then I put each end of the D Ring by the opposite holes and used the pliers to pinch it back shut:
    E1DA553A-D207-44BF-B907-3EB2805A44BD.jpeg

    And there we have it:
    944944A8-E74E-4D35-8D90-AE330AEA1E73.jpeg


    BASK IN THE GLORY

    And here it is proper:
    95993AC5-81E3-456F-BEA2-E904D94D4371.jpeg

    Can anyone tell me exactly where this D-Ring should be located in relation to the clamp?

    Thanks for reading.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
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  44. scottjua

    scottjua Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    third cube to the right of clamp... or about 4-5-o'clock
     
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  45. matty matt

    matty matt Sr Member

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Nice work! D ring looks great.
     
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  46. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Nice work Andy! And great job on the step-by-step... I know I have a hand wheel that needs to be drilled and I didn't have a clue how or where to start with it. Looking good!
     
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  47. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Thanks, Scott. I will get this rotated and get some new pics up.

    Thanks, matty matt. More than anything, I hate waiting...so I figured I might as well get this out of the way now since I had the D Ring. Probably a less legit way of doing this, but it'll work for me!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks, David. As you are aware, tools and this kind of work are not my forte, so I'm always a little nervous heading into these things. But eventually, I throw caution to the wind and I guess I'm lucky that things turn out alright 80% of the time. Just go slow and you'll do fine on your wheel.
     
  48. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Very nice step by step. Thanks for sharing your build.
     
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  49. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build


    Thanks a lot, man. I contemplated whether using a hand drill was safe for the Handwheel. I held the completed saber between my legs to keep it steady. Then when I did use the drill, it cut through the Handwheel with surprising (almost alarming) ease. I meant to take a pic with the drill just starting, before that drilled plastic came streaming out of the hole but it happened so fast, I was too late for that photo. But thank you for the kind words.
     
  50. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

    Very thorough description of drilling that sink knob! I've been wondering about that - too scared to do it. nice work! The X-acto knife is a good tip, especially.

    Since I'm not really worried about the antique value of my grenade more than it flaking into pieces - I'm thinking of adding a little JB weld to the corroded areas (where I can see though to the inside) ...building it up and filing it back down to reinforce the walls.
     
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