RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build
i love the vintage jet engine picture! i wonder how much they weigh!! ??
i love the vintage jet engine picture! i wonder how much they weigh!! ??
Thanks, Scott. I will get this rotated and get some new pics up.third cube to the right of clamp... or about 4-5-o'clock
Thanks, matty matt. More than anything, I hate waiting...so I figured I might as well get this out of the way now since I had the D Ring. Probably a less legit way of doing this, but it'll work for me!Nice work! D ring looks great.
Thanks, David. As you are aware, tools and this kind of work are not my forte, so I'm always a little nervous heading into these things. But eventually, I throw caution to the wind and I guess I'm lucky that things turn out alright 80% of the time. Just go slow and you'll do fine on your wheel.Nice work Andy! And great job on the step-by-step... I know I have a hand wheel that needs to be drilled and I didn't have a clue how or where to start with it. Looking good!
Very nice step by step. Thanks for sharing your build.
Thanks man. I cannot recommend enough the pilot hole for the pilot hole.Very thorough description of drilling that sink knob! I've been wondering about that - too scared to do it. nice work! The X-acto knife is a good tip, especially.
Since I'm not really worried about the antique value of my grenade more than it flaking into pieces - I'm thinking of adding a little JB weld to the corroded areas (where I can see though to the inside) ...building it up and filing it back down to reinforce the walls.
I find one of these invaluable as I don't have a drill press, find it helps with accuracy:UPDATE: D-Ring Attachment
While I am waiting for some piece to arrive to begin my Vader ESB, and some sand paper and black paint to be purchased to continue on my VD Yoda, I figured I would get this D-Ring put onto my OB1. Drilling the hole for a D Ring in an old plastic hand wheel is enough to put the most avid builder/collector in an eternal K-hole of indecision. I understand, too. The hand wheels are rare, very old (so likely fragile), and its not like anyone has a stockpile of them to go to should they royally screw one up. However, with a little planning, a steady hand, and a lot of luck, I have pressed on to get this speedbump behind me.
First, as always, I donned my trusty safety glasses:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/glasses_zpsvgdmurcw.jpg
Yes, those are actually shooting glasses. They also have some glue dried on the lenses...don't really know where that came from. ALWAYS use the safety glasses.
The other tools that I used were:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/18 inch drill_zpsszbegfnp.jpg
A really old electric hand drill with a 1/8" drill bit,
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/sharpie_zpseycijyid.jpg
A fine point Sharpie,
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/X-Acto_zpsdodmcgay.jpg
An X-Acto knife (it must be new, it must be sharp),
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/rotary tool_zps0loa8aka.jpg
And what kind of build would this be without my rotary tool?
For this challenge, I used it only for a moment, and I used this bit along with it:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/fine point_zpsd9iufwha.jpg
The first step was to look through the RPF for other builds showing how the D Ring was attached on other OB1 ANH sabers. This proved to be both time-consuming and mostly unfruitful. Again, most people have great reservations about doing this for some reason. I guess I have to wing it (my favorite!).
The next step then is to see where the hole needs to be drilled in the cube. This was also challenging, but I did remember seeing on the internet a very good example of where the hole is supposed to go: www.romanprops.com/SinkKnobTX
Roman's photo of the hole location is very helpful for two reasons:
1) I know Roman does his homework. It is evident in everything he puts out. Thus, I am confident that this is in fact where the hole is supposed to go.
2) If the hole is in the wrong spot, I can blame it all on Roman.
So, I took the Sharpie and made a mark where I estimated my hole matches up with Roman's handwheel's hole:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/mark_zpsozg1qavy.jpg
I know what you are thinking...why did I draw such a large dot if I was using a fine point Sharpie? The reason is that very rarely do I touch the tip of the Sharpie for the very first time in exactly the right spot. Once I have the Sharpie on the handwheel, I can sort of correct where the tip is and by making the circle bigger, I know that the center of my pilot hole needs to be in the center of the dot. If you start with a regular fat Sharpie, this "luxury" will not be available to you.
It was at this point that my nerves started getting to me... this is it... the big moment! So I thought that the wisest thing would be to do a primer for my pilot hole.
So I took the X-Acto knife and put its razor tip in the center of the Sharpie dot. Then I began rolling it back and forth in between my thumb and finger just to get the pilot hole started:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/precision_zps8dobqn6l.jpg
I wouldn't say I did this for too long, or dug down too far. Just let the weight of the X-Acto do all of the digging. We are only making a pilot for the pilot hole. It doesn't need to be deep.
Next, I took my rotary tool with that pointed end and put that in the primer hole:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/grinding_zpsxdyakipz.jpg
Again, with the pilot hole, I am not digging a giant hole in the cube, but a spot just big enough where I feel certain the drill bit on the drill won't come flying out once I really start going on it.
Next came the drill with the 1/8" drill bit:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/drilling_zpsfch9anrs.jpg
The great thing abut using this really old hand drill is that the bit only rotates as fast as you want it to. If you barely pull the trigger, the drill bit/chuck rotates very slowly; if you pull the trigger all the way, it drills like you think a drill will. In the photo above, I was barely pulling the trigger and that plastic came out of the hole in a rapid fashion. It is good to not have to drill to fast.
An important note when drilling with a hand drill as opposed to using a drill press: You MUST check, doublecheck, and recheck about 50 times while drilling to insure that all of your axis' are true. You don't want to be coming in crooked on this thing.
Here is the hole going in:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/in_zpslcpjt3lh.jpg
And the hole coming out:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/out_zpscbxdk3b1.jpg
For the D-Ring itself, I used two pairs of pliers to bend it open. Normally I would use a rag or something to keep the D Ring from getting scratched by the pliers, but as this is going to be the ultimate weathered and decayed OB1, I just gripped it with the raw pliers and bent it open:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/D ring_zpshf33n7gz.jpg
Then I put each end of the D Ring by the opposite holes and used the pliers to pinch it back shut:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/D Ring Clamp_zpsz6iamrbv.jpg
And there we have it:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/attached_zpstlkrpw5n.jpg
And here it is proper:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/with d ring_zpsrmk8palo.jpg
Can anyone tell me exactly where this D-Ring should be located in relation to the clamp?
Thanks for reading.
Marv, I really like that first one...I can't believe I've never looked for one of these. This would be perfect...and it's ordered!I find one of these invaluable as I don't have a drill press, find it helps with accuracy:
Then you could go for one of these or even skip the first:
Sym-Cha, I agree. A drill press is absolutely the way to go. That tutorial is awesome...I wish I'd have found it earlier. I'd have found someone with a drill press and made them do this for me. I'm also getting rid of the washers...well, one of them anyway. Probably the other one too, and replacing with a smaller one. The lazy man in me always tries to make do with whatever I can find right out of the bag at Home Depot, but these washers have really been bugging me. I guess if I can't find the right size, it's going to be rotary tool time. Watch out for flying metal discs!!!!Sorry for not checking your questions in regards to the correct hole placement and those washers, they are to large indeed. Still you managed on your own and it's a great tutorial mugatu, however for those who do happen to have a drill-press at hand here's the 'correct' method for making that D-ring hole, thanks to James Kenobi 1138 :
Danny, thanks man. I appreciate it. I'm very eager to see how you tackle one of your upcoming projects, particularly the Yoda. When do we get to see?i aways get so excited when following your threads! you do a excellent job describing everything and documenting it with pictures. the saber looks great if u ask me!!
Tom, all three explanations are extremely helpful to the inexperienced like me. I think they all sound good for different things but yeah, the last one with the steel bits sounds like just what I need for the clamp-side rim of my frag. Do you think you will be doing this soon? I am really interested in seeing how you are able to handle and form it. This may just be what I've been looking for.Hi Andy, my lack of detail probably wasn't helpful, sorry!
Bondo is thick, sticky and a little chalky (I've only used the one that comes already mixed in a tube) it hardens very well, used mostly on automotive stuff
Apoxy putty is more like clay. Smash and smush it together and smear it on. I was going to use this and the neck portion to "screw" the threads into the putty.
JB weld is like moderately warm frosting - sticky and more wet - you mix it from two tubes as well, but the reason I like it...its called liquid steel! There is steel in the goop and when it hardens it is nearly indestructible! You can tap and drill it still, but it's really hard.
Danny, the cubed ring of the Handwheel is definitely plastic. I believe it has been vacuum-metalized, which is basically the same end concept as plating it. The handwheels are comprised of three pieces:Andy, i was going over your thread again. i was curious it looks like the hand wheel is chrome plated plastic?!? i actually have been busy on my ESB/TFA saber. im leaning on turning into a the force awakens saber right now. i do have a extra replica button and roys kit so if i wanted to convert it to ESB i can with in a few minutes.. gotta get me another graflex clamp though so i can keep the sticker on it
yoda is gonna take more work, i have YET to remove anything from it. i dont have any free time, i work on my saber about 11-11:30-midnight every night (no power tools at this time of day) ive just been measuring, cutting and sanding, i have 2 more grips to do, then gluing them on. im documenting it all in microsoft word so i can edit/copy/paste it here. youll catch me around
i cannot believe its plastic! i always thought it was aluminum, wow all these years looking at pictures online only to realize it now, its very shocking. pictures sure can be deceiving. it doesnt bother me being plastic at all, its just all these years i thought it was aluminum.Danny, the cubed ring of the Handwheel is definitely plastic. I believe it has been vacuum-metalized, which is basically the same end concept as plating it. The handwheels are comprised of three pieces:
1) the cubed ring - plastic
2) a threaded inner and lower cuff - plastic
3) a threaded inner and upper cuff - metal
I'll get some images up of the three in my next update.
I am eager to see one of your builds but do not rush anything on account of me. Patience and time are your friends, buddy.