Mugatu’s Souvenirs, Novelties, Party Tricks: MACROVISION

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

i love the vintage jet engine picture! i wonder how much they weigh!! ??
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

UPDATE:

I have taken some washers that I purchased and added them to the vintage transistors that I acquired through member teecrooz. The bore diameter of the washers were just a tad too small so I used my favorite new tool, my Black & Decker rotary tool, and ate up a bit of the inner circumference. It was a tight fit but the transistors went in. Now, my only problem is that when I check out OB1 ANH photos or photos of other members' OB1 sabers, my washers seem to have too large of an outer circumference.

Before I post the photos of them, I have already attached them to my new and improved (read "worse appearing") clamp. I haven't permanently attached them yet, but just bent the contact leads through the holes in the clamp to secure them temporarily. As such, I don't want to mess with them too much and risk breaking off a lead. I think you will still be able to get the gist of how gnarly this clamp is though.

Here is the side with the lever.
C4958507-64B3-4593-8F16-BD5112E813DA.jpeg


You can see already from this side that there is some major corrosion and flaking of the plating. There is also what appears to be some sort of crap repair that was attempted on the upper hole.

Turn it a little bit:
B7E89C60-4BC9-454F-A6AE-7E03DFF127C6.jpeg


And still more corrosion. From this view you can also see a bit better what I was referring to regarding the washers. Too wide?


And one more better pic of the best repair part of this clamp:
DD5B8B7A-18D5-4D7F-A057-EC3885FCF72A.jpeg


Don't ask me what happened to this clamp. I really don't know. On top of that, I can't even say whether the person that did this did a good job or a completely disastrous job. To be completely honest, I'm not even sure this is a 100% authentic Graflex clamp! But I really like what it does for the "relic" tone I'm giving this OB1.

As you can also see, the transistors have not really been weathered at all. Once I settle on how I am going to permanently affix them, I will weather them more.

I really do love how this clamp looks though. I did attempt to clean it up a bit as I was going to use this as a test subject for my nickel plating experiments, but as I got going with removing some of the rust, it dawned on me that this is the most relic-like clamp I've ever seen. And not to worry...I didn't get all of the rust removed:
73C03D1A-452D-4D58-9080-5AD83B01C3B2.jpeg


Haha this side is even better:
421719C8-70AE-4EB1-910E-2E34EFEC7AD5.jpeg



Finally, I want to show a bit about my Hales No3Mk1. I had quite a bit of difficulty getting the brass section back into the frag body, as mentioned earlier. I sort of gleamed over my process for "fixing" the issue that I had caused on my own by beating the crap out of the grenade in order to remove the detonator. But in the odd chance it may help someone else, I will share my very non-gentle way of massaging a warped brass section into a deteriorating frag body.

First, let me show you the bottom (the end closest to the pommel on the OB1) section of the frag body. It has some real deterioration:
561555C5-795E-429A-AEB4-276AE7B75737.jpeg


Spin it a little:
AE1EBA56-3464-45B4-8990-EB797E78D0DC.jpeg


As you can see, the bottom rim of the frag body is quite eaten away. I know there have been some questions regarding how this sits against the clamp/clamp spacer. On the one hand, I am lucky this is made of steel, so once I screw on my end nut-device, it all holds together tightly with no wobble. On the other hand, tiny bits of this are so deteriorated, the steel is a bit brittle where it is extremely worn, so I run the risk of snapping off those little ridges.

And now, I'll show you the brass section screwed into the frag body (this is the other end of the frag body) just to assure you that superficially, everything comes out okay in the end:
72DEDF5C-2B60-4940-9698-0BD4F376C596.jpeg


And here is a profile shot to show how flush it is...probably need to get this down just a hair further:
6A183075-175D-42F5-99AD-96582780FF33.jpeg



So, you're probably saying to yourself, "that doesn't look so bad. I thought you said it was really warped." Well, the thing to remember is this is brass and steel, and it doesn't take much warping to make these two not come together. What I had to do was take my trusty rotary tool and grind down about 3/4 of the threads.

This is what that looks like outside the frag body:
F2E0792B-B211-4059-A7BF-627D8ED3B1D3.jpeg


All the way around...:
9B1D464C-3A56-4561-B4B5-74160B1C380C.jpeg


It takes a very steady hand to leave those upper two threads alone. Here it is going into the frag body:
55D7CEA1-6D11-45F1-8FE2-2A8CE26A9582.jpeg


And there you have it thus far.

Please do take a look at these next two images and let me know your opinions on these washers. I've tried to give two slightly different angles to show how they look:
92688B99-4253-4CE5-BE7D-092AC1D89A4E.jpeg


428CA95D-3B0F-40EB-8184-9FC3309476FF.jpeg


Too big? Let me know.

Also, one last thing. I am about to do the deed on this cube ring on the pommel. Does anyone know exactly where about the D-ring hole needs to be drilled? Is it more towards one end of the "cube" than the other?

Thanks for checking this thread out.
 
Last edited:

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

UPDATE: D-Ring Attachment

While I am waiting for some piece to arrive to begin my Vader ESB, and some sand paper and black paint to be purchased to continue on my VD Yoda, I figured I would get this D-Ring put onto my OB1. Drilling the hole for a D Ring in an old plastic hand wheel is enough to put the most avid builder/collector in an eternal K-hole of indecision. I understand, too. The hand wheels are rare, very old (so likely fragile), and its not like anyone has a stockpile of them to go to should they royally screw one up. However, with a little planning, a steady hand, and a lot of luck, I have pressed on to get this speedbump behind me.


TOOLAGE

First, as always, I donned my trusty safety glasses:
B747DAD2-A92D-4504-B5AD-BDAD5E3C8197.jpeg


Yes, those are actually shooting glasses. They also have some glue dried on the lenses...don't really know where that came from. ALWAYS use the safety glasses.

The other tools that I used were:

1. a really old period-correct electric hand drill with 1/8” drill bit
7E527E97-76A3-4822-89A1-0523FEF1AF21.jpeg


2. a fine-point Sharpie (extra fine will work here just as well)
48118025-AB6B-41BD-943A-87F8AFE3BD90.jpeg


3. an X-Acto knife (it must be new; it must be sharp)
21E1D09E-9B16-427B-862F-4BCC2EC2E5BD.jpeg


4. and what kind of cockamamie build would this be without my trusty rotary tool?
F48606B9-A497-4595-BA95-8E0C92DAA172.jpeg


For this challenge, I used it only for a moment, but with it, I used...
5. this super pointy bit (whatever you do, do NOT trip and fall and have your eye land on this thing)
3356CE2D-A5A3-488D-AA56-E244E4C8398E.jpeg


The first step was to look through the RPF for other builds showing how the D Ring was attached on other OB1 ANH sabers. This proved to be both time-consuming and mostly unfruitful. Again, most people have great reservations about doing this for some reason. I guess I have to wing it (my favorite!).


PREPARATIONAGE

The next step then is to see where the hole needs to be drilled in the cube. This was also challenging, but I did remember seeing on the internet a very good example of where the hole is supposed to go: www.romanprops.com/SinkKnobTX

Roman's photo of the hole location is very helpful for two reasons:

1. I know Roman does his homework. It is evident in everything he puts out. Thus, I am confident that this is in fact where the hole is supposed to go.
2. If the hole IS in the wrong spot, I can blame it all on Roman.

So, I took the Sharpie and made a mark where I estimated my hole matches up with Roman's handwheel's hole:
443699DC-C5C7-4294-9443-0733A4453EA6.jpeg


I know what you are thinking...why did I draw such a large dot if I was using a fine point Sharpie? The reason is that very rarely do I touch the tip of the Sharpie for the very first time in exactly the right spot. Once I have the Sharpie on the handwheel, I can sort of correct where the tip is and by making the circle bigger, I know that the center of my pilot hole needs to be in the center of the dot. If you start with a regular fat Sharpie, this "luxury" will not be available to you.


DOING THE DEED

It was at this point that my nerves started getting to me... I mean, THIS IS IT... the big moment! So I thought that the wisest thing would be to do a primer for my pilot hole.
So I took the X-Acto knife and put its razor tip in the center of the Sharpie dot. Then I began rolling it back and forth in between my thumb and finger just to get the pilot hole started:
51387DC5-E216-4ADB-A1CF-C5BD2FA5AFCC.jpeg


I wouldn't say I did this for too long, or dug down too far. Just let the weight of the X-Acto do all of the digging. We are only making a pilot for the pilot hole. It doesn't need to be deep.

Next, I took my rotary tool with that pointed end and put that in the primer hole:
C3E381D2-88BB-4EEB-949A-EC48F3A41F19.jpeg


Again, with the pilot hole, I am not digging a giant hole in the cube, but a spot just big enough where I feel certain the drill bit on the drill won't come flying out once I really start going on it.

Next came the drill with the 1/8" drill bit:
CC888DC8-7087-40B6-A30F-E23A638A7C3F.jpeg


The great thing about using this really old hand drill is that the bit only rotates as fast as you want it to. If you barely pull the trigger, the drill bit/chuck rotates very slowly; if you pull the trigger all the way, it drills like you think a drill will. In the photo above, I was barely pulling the trigger and that plastic came out of the hole in a rapid fashion. It is good to not have to drill to fast.

An important note when drilling with a hand drill as opposed to using a drill press: You MUST check, doublecheck, and recheck about 50 times while drilling to insure that all of your axis' are true. You don't want to be coming in crooked on this thing.

Ahhhh, complete penetration!
9D22AE42-09A8-4BFE-A6AB-247E5155845E.jpeg


Here is the entrance hole:
0A28E51D-852B-4D0B-8EC0-67DEFE05F9D8.jpeg


And the exit hole.
FB8E691C-E7CC-4150-9A37-3BDB999922B8.jpeg



ONE D RING TO RULE THEM ALL

For the D-Ring itself, I used two pairs of pliers to bend it open. Normally I would use a rag or something to keep the D Ring from getting scratched by the pliers, but as this is going to be the ultimate weathered and decayed OB1, I just gripped it with the raw pliers and bent it open:
8CF5F7E9-A6AF-470B-840D-BBBAFF1A14A0.jpeg


Then I put each end of the D Ring by the opposite holes and used the pliers to pinch it back shut:
E1DA553A-D207-44BF-B907-3EB2805A44BD.jpeg


And there we have it:
944944A8-E74E-4D35-8D90-AE330AEA1E73.jpeg



BASK IN THE GLORY

And here it is proper:
95993AC5-81E3-456F-BEA2-E904D94D4371.jpeg


Can anyone tell me exactly where this D-Ring should be located in relation to the clamp?

Thanks for reading.
 
Last edited:

scottjua

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

third cube to the right of clamp... or about 4-5-o'clock
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Edraven99

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Nice work Andy! And great job on the step-by-step... I know I have a hand wheel that needs to be drilled and I didn't have a clue how or where to start with it. Looking good!
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

third cube to the right of clamp... or about 4-5-o'clock
Thanks, Scott. I will get this rotated and get some new pics up.

Nice work! D ring looks great.
Thanks, matty matt. More than anything, I hate waiting...so I figured I might as well get this out of the way now since I had the D Ring. Probably a less legit way of doing this, but it'll work for me!

- - - Updated - - -

Nice work Andy! And great job on the step-by-step... I know I have a hand wheel that needs to be drilled and I didn't have a clue how or where to start with it. Looking good!
Thanks, David. As you are aware, tools and this kind of work are not my forte, so I'm always a little nervous heading into these things. But eventually, I throw caution to the wind and I guess I'm lucky that things turn out alright 80% of the time. Just go slow and you'll do fine on your wheel.
 

Panaflex

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Very nice step by step. Thanks for sharing your build.
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Very nice step by step. Thanks for sharing your build.

Thanks a lot, man. I contemplated whether using a hand drill was safe for the Handwheel. I held the completed saber between my legs to keep it steady. Then when I did use the drill, it cut through the Handwheel with surprising (almost alarming) ease. I meant to take a pic with the drill just starting, before that drilled plastic came streaming out of the hole but it happened so fast, I was too late for that photo. But thank you for the kind words.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Very thorough description of drilling that sink knob! I've been wondering about that - too scared to do it. nice work! The X-acto knife is a good tip, especially.

Since I'm not really worried about the antique value of my grenade more than it flaking into pieces - I'm thinking of adding a little JB weld to the corroded areas (where I can see though to the inside) ...building it up and filing it back down to reinforce the walls.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Very thorough description of drilling that sink knob! I've been wondering about that - too scared to do it. nice work! The X-acto knife is a good tip, especially.

Since I'm not really worried about the antique value of my grenade more than it flaking into pieces - I'm thinking of adding a little JB weld to the corroded areas (where I can see though to the inside) ...building it up and filing it back down to reinforce the walls.
Thanks man. I cannot recommend enough the pilot hole for the pilot hole.
I am aware of JB Weld but I have never used or handled it. Is it metallic at all (not asking because it needs to be, just completely unfamiliar with it as to what it looks like and feels like)? I'm the same way with Bondo. I see it mentioned and used all the time here but I've no experience with it and so don't know what it is really like to work with. I think reinforcement of some kind is probably smart for the longevity of the piece. Could also rebuild some devastated areas with it possibly. The bottom of my grenade needs some kind of supportive rim, that's for sure.
 

Marv

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

UPDATE: D-Ring Attachment

While I am waiting for some piece to arrive to begin my Vader ESB, and some sand paper and black paint to be purchased to continue on my VD Yoda, I figured I would get this D-Ring put onto my OB1. Drilling the hole for a D Ring in an old plastic hand wheel is enough to put the most avid builder/collector in an eternal K-hole of indecision. I understand, too. The hand wheels are rare, very old (so likely fragile), and its not like anyone has a stockpile of them to go to should they royally screw one up. However, with a little planning, a steady hand, and a lot of luck, I have pressed on to get this speedbump behind me.

First, as always, I donned my trusty safety glasses:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/glasses_zpsvgdmurcw.jpg

Yes, those are actually shooting glasses. They also have some glue dried on the lenses...don't really know where that came from. ALWAYS use the safety glasses.

The other tools that I used were:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/18 inch drill_zpsszbegfnp.jpg
A really old electric hand drill with a 1/8" drill bit,

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/sharpie_zpseycijyid.jpg
A fine point Sharpie,

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/X-Acto_zpsdodmcgay.jpg
An X-Acto knife (it must be new, it must be sharp),

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/rotary tool_zps0loa8aka.jpg
And what kind of build would this be without my rotary tool?

For this challenge, I used it only for a moment, and I used this bit along with it:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/fine point_zpsd9iufwha.jpg


The first step was to look through the RPF for other builds showing how the D Ring was attached on other OB1 ANH sabers. This proved to be both time-consuming and mostly unfruitful. Again, most people have great reservations about doing this for some reason. I guess I have to wing it (my favorite!).

The next step then is to see where the hole needs to be drilled in the cube. This was also challenging, but I did remember seeing on the internet a very good example of where the hole is supposed to go: www.romanprops.com/SinkKnobTX

Roman's photo of the hole location is very helpful for two reasons:

1) I know Roman does his homework. It is evident in everything he puts out. Thus, I am confident that this is in fact where the hole is supposed to go.
2) If the hole is in the wrong spot, I can blame it all on Roman.

So, I took the Sharpie and made a mark where I estimated my hole matches up with Roman's handwheel's hole:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/mark_zpsozg1qavy.jpg

I know what you are thinking...why did I draw such a large dot if I was using a fine point Sharpie? The reason is that very rarely do I touch the tip of the Sharpie for the very first time in exactly the right spot. Once I have the Sharpie on the handwheel, I can sort of correct where the tip is and by making the circle bigger, I know that the center of my pilot hole needs to be in the center of the dot. If you start with a regular fat Sharpie, this "luxury" will not be available to you.

It was at this point that my nerves started getting to me... this is it... the big moment! So I thought that the wisest thing would be to do a primer for my pilot hole.
So I took the X-Acto knife and put its razor tip in the center of the Sharpie dot. Then I began rolling it back and forth in between my thumb and finger just to get the pilot hole started:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/precision_zps8dobqn6l.jpg
I wouldn't say I did this for too long, or dug down too far. Just let the weight of the X-Acto do all of the digging. We are only making a pilot for the pilot hole. It doesn't need to be deep.

Next, I took my rotary tool with that pointed end and put that in the primer hole:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/grinding_zpsxdyakipz.jpg

Again, with the pilot hole, I am not digging a giant hole in the cube, but a spot just big enough where I feel certain the drill bit on the drill won't come flying out once I really start going on it.

Next came the drill with the 1/8" drill bit:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/drilling_zpsfch9anrs.jpg

The great thing abut using this really old hand drill is that the bit only rotates as fast as you want it to. If you barely pull the trigger, the drill bit/chuck rotates very slowly; if you pull the trigger all the way, it drills like you think a drill will. In the photo above, I was barely pulling the trigger and that plastic came out of the hole in a rapid fashion. It is good to not have to drill to fast.

An important note when drilling with a hand drill as opposed to using a drill press: You MUST check, doublecheck, and recheck about 50 times while drilling to insure that all of your axis' are true. You don't want to be coming in crooked on this thing.

Here is the hole going in:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/in_zpslcpjt3lh.jpg

And the hole coming out:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/out_zpscbxdk3b1.jpg


For the D-Ring itself, I used two pairs of pliers to bend it open. Normally I would use a rag or something to keep the D Ring from getting scratched by the pliers, but as this is going to be the ultimate weathered and decayed OB1, I just gripped it with the raw pliers and bent it open:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/D ring_zpshf33n7gz.jpg

Then I put each end of the D Ring by the opposite holes and used the pliers to pinch it back shut:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/D Ring Clamp_zpsz6iamrbv.jpg

And there we have it:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/attached_zpstlkrpw5n.jpg

And here it is proper:
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll200/mugatu66/OB1 D Ring/with d ring_zpsrmk8palo.jpg

Can anyone tell me exactly where this D-Ring should be located in relation to the clamp?

Thanks for reading.
I find one of these invaluable as I don't have a drill press, find it helps with accuracy:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20PC-Micro-HSS-Mini-Drill-Archimedes-Twist-Drill-Suit-Warhammer-Model-Makers-/351302672077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51cb455ecd
Then you could go for one of these or even skip the first:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-HAND-DRILL-GET-RID-OF-YOUR-ARCHIMEDES-PCD-SPIRAL-HOBBY-AIRFIX-HORNBY-3155-/221535719884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33948ed1cc
 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Sorry for not checking your questions in regards to the correct hole placement and those washers, they are to large indeed. Still you managed on your own and it's a great tutorial mugatu, however for those who do happen to have a drill-press at hand here's the 'correct' method for making that D-ring hole, thanks to James Kenobi 1138 :

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=113901

Chaim
 
Last edited:

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

i aways get so excited when following your threads! you do a excellent job describing everything and documenting it with pictures. the saber looks great if u ask me!!
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Marv, I really like that first one...I can't believe I've never looked for one of these. This would be perfect...and it's ordered!

Sorry for not checking your questions in regards to the correct hole placement and those washers, they are to large indeed. Still you managed on your own and it's a great tutorial mugatu, however for those who do happen to have a drill-press at hand here's the 'correct' method for making that D-ring hole, thanks to James Kenobi 1138 :

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=113901

Chaim
Sym-Cha, I agree. A drill press is absolutely the way to go. That tutorial is awesome...I wish I'd have found it earlier. I'd have found someone with a drill press and made them do this for me. I'm also getting rid of the washers...well, one of them anyway. Probably the other one too, and replacing with a smaller one. The lazy man in me always tries to make do with whatever I can find right out of the bag at Home Depot, but these washers have really been bugging me. I guess if I can't find the right size, it's going to be rotary tool time. Watch out for flying metal discs!!!!

i aways get so excited when following your threads! you do a excellent job describing everything and documenting it with pictures. the saber looks great if u ask me!!
Danny, thanks man. I appreciate it. I'm very eager to see how you tackle one of your upcoming projects, particularly the Yoda. When do we get to see?
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Hi Andy, my lack of detail probably wasn't helpful, sorry!
Bondo is thick, sticky and a little chalky (I've only used the one that comes already mixed in a tube) it hardens very well, used mostly on automotive stuff

Apoxy putty is more like clay. Smash and smush it together and smear it on. I was going to use this and the neck portion to "screw" the threads into the putty.

JB weld is like moderately warm frosting - sticky and more wet - you mix it from two tubes as well, but the reason I like it...its called liquid steel! There is steel in the goop and when it hardens it is nearly indestructible! You can tap and drill it still, but it's really hard.
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Hi Andy, my lack of detail probably wasn't helpful, sorry!
Bondo is thick, sticky and a little chalky (I've only used the one that comes already mixed in a tube) it hardens very well, used mostly on automotive stuff

Apoxy putty is more like clay. Smash and smush it together and smear it on. I was going to use this and the neck portion to "screw" the threads into the putty.

JB weld is like moderately warm frosting - sticky and more wet - you mix it from two tubes as well, but the reason I like it...its called liquid steel! There is steel in the goop and when it hardens it is nearly indestructible! You can tap and drill it still, but it's really hard.
Tom, all three explanations are extremely helpful to the inexperienced like me. I think they all sound good for different things but yeah, the last one with the steel bits sounds like just what I need for the clamp-side rim of my frag. Do you think you will be doing this soon? I am really interested in seeing how you are able to handle and form it. This may just be what I've been looking for.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Andy, i was going over your thread again. i was curious it looks like the hand wheel is chrome plated plastic?!? i actually have been busy on my ESB/TFA saber. im leaning on turning into a the force awakens saber right now. i do have a extra replica button and roys kit so if i wanted to convert it to ESB i can with in a few minutes.. gotta get me another graflex clamp though so i can keep the sticker on it

yoda is gonna take more work, i have YET to remove anything from it. i dont have any free time, i work on my saber about 11-11:30-midnight every night (no power tools at this time of day) ive just been measuring, cutting and sanding, i have 2 more grips to do, then gluing them on. im documenting it all in microsoft word so i can edit/copy/paste it here. youll catch me around ;)
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Andy, i was going over your thread again. i was curious it looks like the hand wheel is chrome plated plastic?!? i actually have been busy on my ESB/TFA saber. im leaning on turning into a the force awakens saber right now. i do have a extra replica button and roys kit so if i wanted to convert it to ESB i can with in a few minutes.. gotta get me another graflex clamp though so i can keep the sticker on it

yoda is gonna take more work, i have YET to remove anything from it. i dont have any free time, i work on my saber about 11-11:30-midnight every night (no power tools at this time of day) ive just been measuring, cutting and sanding, i have 2 more grips to do, then gluing them on. im documenting it all in microsoft word so i can edit/copy/paste it here. youll catch me around ;)
Danny, the cubed ring of the Handwheel is definitely plastic. I believe it has been vacuum-metalized, which is basically the same end concept as plating it. The handwheels are comprised of three pieces:

1) the cubed ring - plastic
2) a threaded inner and lower cuff - plastic
3) a threaded inner and upper cuff - metal

I'll get some images up of the three in my next update.

I am eager to see one of your builds but do not rush anything on account of me. Patience and time are your friends, buddy.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: My In Progress OB1 ANH (some) Real Parts Build

Danny, the cubed ring of the Handwheel is definitely plastic. I believe it has been vacuum-metalized, which is basically the same end concept as plating it. The handwheels are comprised of three pieces:

1) the cubed ring - plastic
2) a threaded inner and lower cuff - plastic
3) a threaded inner and upper cuff - metal

I'll get some images up of the three in my next update.

I am eager to see one of your builds but do not rush anything on account of me. Patience and time are your friends, buddy.
i cannot believe its plastic! i always thought it was aluminum, wow all these years looking at pictures online only to realize it now, its very shocking. pictures sure can be deceiving. it doesnt bother me being plastic at all, its just all these years i thought it was aluminum.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top